10 Second Temporary Fix for Blend Door Actuator Problem...

[D Ryan]

In the first post, the 3rd picture, there is a red circile, in that picture there is a part that has some Blue paint on it! Is this what needs to be turned?

Thanks for the info

We are looking for a quick (cheat) fix , if we can get the door to heat position we will try stuffing some alumin foil in there to hold it in place. until we can get time to fix it.

 

[Exproblems]

In the first post, the 3rd picture, there is a red circile, in that picture there is a part that has some Blue paint on it! Is this what needs to be turned?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yes, that would be it according to that photo. I never looked behind my dash, just reached in with my hand, felt for it while it was flipping up and down and flipped it to the heat side with my finger.

>>>>>>>Thanks for the info>>>>>>>>>>

No problem, your welcome.

>>>>>>>>>>We are looking for a quick (cheat) fix , if we can get the door to heat position we will try stuffing some alumin foil in there to hold it in place. until we can get time to fix it>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That is the quick fix and I would use something other than aluminum foil to hold it in place on the heat side, since foil is made of metal and there are a lot of electrical connections back there. The only good thing with the tin-foil is that it can be molded into shape to fit back there.

 

[D Ryan]

I tryed lightening up the picture abit still hard to see! It looks like there is a hole in the top of it. Was thinking a dowel rod might just fit in it, perhaps glued! I have a broken door from a 99 f150 and its axel does have a hole in it. Just abit of brainstorming !!!!

I have read afew posts where there reports of having to reset every time you shut the car off (stepper moter moving to rest position), for a cheat fix I was thinking remove the fuse that powers the moter, or just the moter plug its- self or the moter.

If anyone has a picture of one of these doors please post!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6408018233_dae7625381_m.jpg

 

[Exproblems]

I have read afew posts where there reports of having to reset every time you shut the car off (stepper moter moving to rest position), for a cheat fix I was thinking remove the fuse that powers the moter, or just the moter plug its- self or the moter.

If anyone has a picture of one of these doors>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yeah, you sometimes have to reset the blend door with your hand, but here is a tip to keep from having to do that. After you have set it to the heat side and you go to start the vehicle up after it sat for a while, turn your fan speed to it's highest setting #4, before you turn the key over and start the engine. The force of air from the fan should keep the blend door on the hot side. It worked for me. If I started the vehicle up with the fan on a low setting, it usually slipped back to the cold side and I had to flip it back to the hot side by hand again. Just remember to turn the fan to high speed prior to turning the key and starting the engine each and everytime you get in the EX. You can lower the fan speed after the engine is running.
I don't know what will happen if you unplug the actuator wiring harness from the actuator. Don't know if that will help keep the blend door in the position you set it in, hot.
You can see a photo of a "blend door" in the ad for a product called "Heater Treater". Just type "Heater Treater" into the search box at the top of the forum and you should get the page with the ad and photos on it.

 

[zone 6]

10 second fix worked great, now I can use the gas guzzler again

 

[Melodys]

I have found the lever on the passenger side of the blower box, through the glove box, etc., as I've read above. W/my left hand, I turned the dial from cold to hot and w/my right hand, I felt it moving. The diagram I saw above said "hot" is back (toward the seat) and "cold" is forward (toward the motor). However, as I turn the dial from cold to hot, the lever moves forward (toward the motor), which is the "cold" setting, according to the diagram. My new actuator is working, apparently; I don't have the physical power to turn the lever back to the "heat" side, but I should have. Here's the question. Why can't I move that lever back? What is holding it so tight in the "forward" position? Somebody better tell me something before my hand freezes, stuck to that stupid box! Thanks...!

 

[D Ryan]

Here's the question. Why can't I move that lever back? What is holding it so tight in the "forward" position? Somebody better tell me something before my hand freezes, stuck to that stupid box! Thanks...!

I cant say for sure! But could you move this door before you installed the moter?

Things it MIGHT Be!

broken door
wrong moter
moter broken again
moter installed in wrong position (forced)

To narrow this down abit, you might remove the moter, then with your hand move the door back and forth. If the eng is warmed up it should blow hot air, if it dosent your problem is in the door its-self.

 

[Exproblems]

I have found the lever on the passenger side of the blower box, through the glove box, etc., as I've read above. W/my left hand, I turned the dial from cold to hot and w/my right hand, I felt it moving.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Correct so far!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The diagram I saw above said "hot" is back (toward the seat) and "cold" is forward (toward the motor).>>>>>>>>>>

Correct again. Hot is back towards the seat or console area.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>However, as I turn the dial from cold to hot, the lever moves forward (toward the motor), which is the "cold" setting, according to the diagram. My new actuator is working, apparently; I don't have the physical power to turn the lever back to the "heat" side, but I should have. Here's the question. Why can't I move that lever back? What is holding it so tight in the "forward" position? Somebody better tell me something before my hand freezes, stuck to that stupid box! Thanks>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Here is where you lost me. Why are you trying to manually flip the blend door to the hot side by hand, if you have already installed a new blend door actuator? If you installed the actuator correctly(set to cold setting) and had the temp knob and blend door itself set to the cold side when you installed it and plugged it into the wiring harness, it should work properly. Did you follow the repair/installation instructions properly and use the repair post from "BigRondo" as your guide? If you did install a new actuator, I would pull it out again and make sure everything is set to the cold side first, then reinstall it and try it again.

 

[Melodys]

My reasoning: If I CAN move the lever, the new actuator is "wrong," for some reason--but I have heat long enough to work on it and figure it out in last night's 24 degree temp! I CANNOT move the lever, so why?--because the actuator's OK--or is it? That's what my guts tell me, that either it's installed wrong, it's installed wrong, or it's installed wrong. I'm redoing this today, in a little warmer temp condition. It will take "a second," but I've waited on a few responses to see if I might be wasting my time doing it; apparently not. However, there is one thing; When I installed the actuator, I did not move the lever, as I didn't know it existed until last night. When I installed it, I started the engine, turned the temp to cold, when the new actuator was stopped (in the cold position), I turned off the engine, installed the actuator, THANKED GOD (mostly for forgiving my "evil thoughts toward Ford for doing this to me"!), started it up and waited on the heater to warm up...to no avail...how disappointing! But "Exprob," I gotta tell you, if it weren't for y'all--Rondo's excellent photo assistance--all the encouragement and willingness to help a true novice in plain English, I'd have already shelled out a bunch of cash to Ford! Even my dad said to take it to the shop--until I showed him what I found in here and how far I'd gone in tearing down the dash/center, etc., toward fixing it...it was in my face, I HAD to finish it! SO, thank you so much; I feel like I have support and will finish this--by myself! (Why don't more women opt for careers in mechanics? If you can figure out how to put together kids' toys, hang curtains, assemble stuff to make a great cake, you should be able to do this!!!) I'll be back soon...check back, please; I'll tell you what's going on.

 

[Melodys]

I replied in length to "Exprob" below; however, to let you know, THANKS for helping! YES, I will try these things you mentioned. I did get the wrong part from O'Reilly in the beginning; it was obvious when I pulled out the old one. They exchanged it, no problem; so I do have the right one now. About the installation, it went right in, as if it were in the right position. It was a snap--so how could I guess it would be in the wrong place. I do believe that's it, though. If I had it to do over, I'd photograph everything before I touched it! Advise your next "dummy" to do this; how I wish I could remember the exact screw to put in the exact place, etc., when I put this thing back together! I've been at this for WEEKS! LOL

 

[Exproblems]

My reasoning: If I CAN move the lever, the new actuator is "wrong," for some reason--but I have heat long enough to work on it and figure it out in last night's 24 degree temp! I CANNOT move the lever, so why?--because the actuator's OK--or is it? That's what my guts tell me, that either it's installed wrong, it's installed wrong, or it's installed wrong.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Forget moving the blend door tab behind the dash with your hand once you installed the the new actuator. If you installed the new actuator correctly, just turn the temp control knob on the dash to heat/hot. If you get heat, you installed it right. If you didn't get heat, you either installed it wrong, meaning the actuator arm is in wrong temp setting when installed or you got the wrong part/actuator or the blend door itself is bad.

>>>>>>>>>>>> When I installed the actuator, I did not move the lever, as I didn't know it existed until last night.>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If the tab/lever to the blend door behind the dash was in the cold position at the time you installed the new actuator, that is fine, thats where you want it during the install. IF you had the blend door flipped by hand to the hot side when installing the new actuator, this is your problem as to why the new actuator isn't working right.

>>>>>>>>>>>When I installed it, I started the engine, turned the temp to cold, when the new actuator was stopped (in the cold position), I turned off the engine, installed the actuator,>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

As long as the actuator arm itself that turns the blend door was installed in the cold position you are good here.

>>>>>>>>>>>THANKED GOD (mostly for forgiving my "evil thoughts toward Ford for doing this to me"!),>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Ford did it to all us with this problem. Now you know why Ford never need a cash bailout from the Gov't, because they knew they built their vehicles wrong with parts that would break in a short period of time and the cash would coming rolling back into Ford for replacement parts.

>>>>>>>>>>>But "Exprob," I gotta tell you, if it weren't for y'all--Rondo's excellent photo assistance--all the encouragement and willingness to help a true novice in plain English,>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Your welcome.

>>>>>>> Even my dad said to take it to the shop>>>>>>>>>>

Just don't take it to a Ford dealership, they want $600 for the labor part of the job.

>>>>>>>>>> (Why don't more women opt for careers in mechanics? <<<<<<<<<<<<<

Because you make better cooks? :

>>>>>>>>>I'll tell you what's going on>>>>>>>

OKay, keep us posted on the outcome. Good luck.

 

[Exproblems]

I did get the wrong part from O'Reilly in the beginning; it was obvious when I pulled out the old one. They exchanged it, no problem; so I do have the right one now.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

From what most have said in here, it is best to get a new actuator from Ford using your VIN number when ordering the part. Your VIN number ensures you get the exact part for your Explorer.

>>>>>>>>> About the installation, it went right in, as if it were in the right position. It was a snap--so how could I guess it would be in the wrong place.>>>>>>>>>>>

You have to make sure that the "arm" on the new actuator is set to the cold temp setting and make sure the "blend door" is flipped back to the cold side before re-installing the actuator.

You can test the new actuator by plugging it into the wiring harness while holding it in your hand and having the temp knob set to cold, then energize the ignition(don't start the engine) and turn the temp knob to heat and watch the actuator arm move to the heat setting. Then rotate the temp knob back to the cold setting and watch the arm move back to the cold setting and turn off the ignition. Now re-install it.

>>>>>>>>>how I wish I could remember the exact screw to put in the exact place, etc., when I put this thing back together! >>>>>>>>>>>>

The screws that hold the actuator in place should be the same size, so it doesn't matter which one you use for each different hole. It's the actuator itself mounted in the right position and the actuator arm position(cold setting) and having the blend door set to the cold temp setting is what matters when installing the actuator. Temp control knob set to cold as well during install.

 

[D Ryan]

The part that rotates up and down! Could this be part of the blend door or maybe its axel?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I'm assuming it is some how connected to the blend door itself because when you flip this arm/hinge that is going up and down behind the dash, it rotates the blend door itself into the position you want it in which is hot or heat.

>>>>>>>>>>>>The door that actually moves from open and closed position! Does it swing direction simulate that of a door in your home( virtical), or a trap door ? (horazontal)>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The blend door doesn't open or close, it just switches from the cold side of the system to the hot side of the system. I can't remember if the blend door sits in the horizontal or vertical position, but if you go look for the "Heater Treater" ad in here, you can see a cut away picture of the blend door inside the blend door box and how it sits in there.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>The part that moves up and down is it doing this because its broken?

Does a heater in working order also go up and down?>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The part behind the dash that is moving is not what is broken. What is broken is the small gear/teeth inside of the blend door actuator. The actuator is what needs replacing. The arm/hinge that is moving up and down is just the thing you need to grab with your finger to manually flip the blend door over to the hot temp side. No, the heater core does not move up or down. The blend door when switched to the hot temp side, just allows the flow of hot air coming from the heater core and then thru the dash vents.

I found the picture over at heater treater, the blend door rests horazontaly ( like your glove box, but swings on the dash side) and it is spring loaded!

If I find that the door axel is broken I will get the heater treater replacement. To test the door axel, I will place a screw driver in where the moter shaft goes and see if it turns freely, just like he did in the video.

 

[Exproblems]

I found the picture over at heater treater, the blend door rests horazontaly ( like your glove box, but swings on the dash side) and it is spring loaded!

If I find that the door axel is broken I will get the heater treater replacement. To test the door axel, I will place a screw driver in where the moter shaft goes and see if it turns freely, just like he did in the video.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I never watched the Heater Treater video, just looked at the cut-away-view-photo and read up on it briefly, some time ago. When you say "axle" are you referring to the part of the blend door that is connected to the arm coming off of the blend door actuator? On the air recirculation door that I removed from my Ex, the part of the air recirc door that connects to the actuator arm is tubular plastic and the actual rectangle door panel is built coming off of that. Good luck with that fix, if your blend door is really broken. It doesn't look fun but to replace but the other option taking it to a Ford dealership, is quite expensive, over $1100.

 

[D Ryan]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

When you say "axle" are you referring to the part of the blend door that is connected to the arm coming off of the blend door actuator?.

Yes!

One end connects the moter the other end is the gismo that getting flipped( then stuffed with Alumin foil) for tempoary fix.


The one in the picture is a virtical door from my sons f150 , the Explorer doors are horizontal under the dash.

A quick fix could be done from either end of the axel, the passenger side sounds like the fastest cheat fix!

Picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/18130316@N07/6425764015/in/photostream

 

[GuardianSport]

"This winter, thousands of Ford Explorer drivers have been found dead behind their wheels due to high levels of hypothermia. One driver, who was only identified as "BigR" from the ExplorerForum, a popular Explorer enthusiast and most likely domestic terrorism operation, literally had frost growing on his Oakley driving gloves with an apparent suicide note on his chest saying, "from my cold, dead hands." Ford chief executive chairman Willian C. Ford, Jr. said that if he were in the same position, he would happily die in his Ford Explorer. GM CEO Daniel Akerson only had this to say, "that's what you get for being a blue blood!" The issue seems to be due to a faulty "blend door actuator" which controls the flow of warm and cold air into the vehicle cabin. Upon further investigation we discovered that Ford outsourced the manufacture of these devices to a factory in Brazil that is notorious for hiring spider monkeys to do menial labour. Ford has yet to release a recall for the afflicted vehicles."

 

[Melodys]

OK, here's where I am. It's come to this: I've lost the little "gasket" thingy--it goes around the shaft of the actuator, kinda rubbery/cushiony. I'll tear up the rest of the truck finding that! That's all that's holding me up. I think when I find it, I'll be able to match IT up with the "design" of the hole the shaft goes into on the blower box, thus positioning the actuator right this time. Thanks to you, I located the lever and put a rolled up wash cloth in there to keep it on "hot" so I can at least stay warm 'til I find that blasted little piece! (I sure thought that actuator would go in only one way; it WILL go in another way--and it popped right in, as if it knew where to go...no pressure/force...went right in--the wrong way!) Here are my final (hopefully) thoughts on this project. Hind sight's 20/20, of course, but if I'd have known about this little trick to get some heat in there, I wouldn't have replaced the actuator. I'd have put that wash cloth in there and gone on; it's NOT that big of a deal. Someone suggested using foil, but that didn't seem to be a good idea. I came across many wires back in there that may have caused more issues, had they come in contact with the foil. (My GM-trained mechanic brother agrees with me on this, he said he'd have stuck something in there and be done with it, without a doubt.) However, I feel like I could do the job for someone else and make a little Christmas cash, now! I would gladly have paid $200 to get it done, myself, as opposed to $1100 (as someone stated) at the dealer's garage! The shop I first called charges $55/hour and wanted the truck for two days! Don't they know better than that? Any idiot can replace the actuator in under two hours--I could do it in an hour, anyway. THANKS so much for all the help in plain English and the photos, Rondo! If anybody needs a tip or two, I'll pass along the little things that helped me with my '05 Explorer; it's different from any of the photos I've seen in the articles posted on this forum. There really is NO reason anyone should drive a cold vehicle for one minute--it's a simple quick fix that could even be permanent, depending on how you want to deal with it! THANKS, EVERYBODY: You're terrific!

 

[Exproblems]

. Thanks to you, I located the lever and put a rolled up wash cloth in there to keep it on "hot" so I can at least stay warm 'til I find that blasted little piece! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but if I'd have known about this little trick to get some heat in there, I wouldn't have replaced the actuator. I'd have put that wash cloth in there and gone on; it's NOT that big of a deal.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yeah, you can do that rather than replace the actuator, but come next summer, you'll want to remove the wash cloth from back there and make sure the blend door goes back to the cold side so your AC will work for the summer. It depends on where you live and what type of seasons and daily climate changes you have to deal with and how often you will have to stuff a rag or something else back there to hold the blend door on the hot side. You'll at least have to change it twice a year. One other thing, with the temp fix in place, you won't be able to blend/regulate the air temp inside the vehicle with the temp control knob. The temp will be coming out hot at all times. You may have to crack a window open if it gets too hot inside of the vehicle.

>>>>>>>>Someone suggested using foil, but that didn't seem to be a good idea. I came across many wires back in there that may have caused more issues, had they come in contact with the foil. (My GM-trained mechanic brother agrees with me on this, he said he'd have stuck something in there and be done with it, without a doubt.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Agreed, tin foil is metal, not a good idea to stuff it behind the dash with all the electrical connections back there. Might come loose and short something out.

>>>>>>>>> myself, as opposed to $1100 (as someone stated) at the dealer's garage!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The $1100 is the cost for the "blend door box" replacement ($400 for the box and $700 of labor) and the air recirculation door would also cost around $1000 or so at a Ford dealership. The Blend door actuator repair at a Ford dealership would cost around $700, $80-$90 for the actuator and $580 in labor +taxes.

<<<<<<<<<<THANKS, EVERYBODY: You're terrific!>>>>>>>>>

Your welcome!

 

[D Ryan]

Same problem here with 05 blend door. I found a way to keep the door in the position you want it cold or hot until you change. AS others have stated quite well and shown pics of the pass. side handle which you can feel trying to move. When I get it in the position I want for hot or cold I take a piece of aluminum foil wadded up about the size of a baseball or just alittle smaller.Reach your hand the wadded foil with heat or a/c on and push down inside where the handle is trying to move. By placing it onto the handle with a small amount of pressure it will stay until removed. Mine has been there all summer and last winter. I think I will soon replace my acutator but this has been a good fix for now.

Thanks for the info!

I was wondering! If the aluminum foil came out of its position would it fall to the floorboard of the car.

I really dont see any safty issues with this cheat fix! Everything is plastic!

I dont have the EX here at the house and wont have it here until around Xmas , I'm kinda working in the blind for now! Just wanta get all my ducks in a row.

 

[Melodys]

RE: GUARDIANSPORT POST ON 11/29/11 @ 11:50 A.M.--NUT! Now, here's one for you. "This winter, thousands of Ford Explorer drivers have been found behind their wheels and parked on the side of the road with the windows fogged up from the heat inside the vehicle. It seems they have pulled over and are replacing Band-Aids and adding antibiotic salve to scrapes/scratches/cuts on their fingers, hands, and wrist area--usually more pronounced on ONE arm. One driver, who was only identified as "Mel" from the ExplorerForum (a novice Explorer enthusiast and most likely connected to/receiving instruction from an alleged domestic terrorism operation-connected individual identified only as "BigR") had one significant bruise (among many) in the vicinity of her right wrist that stood out and appeared to be related to other injuries suffered when "Mel" replaced the blend door actuator in her 2005 Explorer. (She would not pay the local FORD dealer $55/hour to work for what they said on the two-day job to repair this problem caused by the FORD company's own "don't care"/lackadaisical attitude in building this "monster" heating system that includes TOYS-R-US parts that self-destruct every 24 months! And she could not find any "shade tree mechanic" to take on the job, as replacing this part allegedly requires the removal of the entire dash just to replace this $40-$75 part, which is the approximate size of a wide cigarette pack.) The issue seems to be due to a faulty "blend door actuator" which controls the flow of warm and cold air into the vehicle cabin. Upon further investigation we discovered that FORD outsourced the manufacture of these devices to a factory in Brazil that is notorious for hiring spider monkeys to do menial labour. (Is this where the name "Brazil nuts" actually comes from?) FORD has yet to release a recall for the afflicted vehicles. To remedy the problem, FORD should immediately issue recalls on the afflicted vehicles, install the "Heater Treater" in each--since they can't seem to improve their own product themselves, and reinvent the actuator, installing all stainless steel parts that will last as long as the vehicle itself. It seems that one of those unfortunate "Mels" out there will have to receive related injuries which become infected, and then the person(s) would have to amputate a finger, hand, or lower part of the involved arm due to massive infection from the related wounds from "blend door actuator replacement" TO GET FORD'S ATTENTION!"