My '94 extended cab

[Xeek]

eh it doesnt look too bad. is that the name for it, fluted? all i saw was clear and clear with amber reflective circles. i know the 2nd choice was a little more 'inspection legal' but i thought it looked ugly lol. the fluted ones are what i was trying to find tho, but didnt see any.

well its got a 250a fuse in it. that deff surpasses my requirements lol. like i said, a total of like 45-50amps of combined fused items leading back to the battery. if anything happened itd blow the wires going from the fuse box to the item itself before hitting the 250a power line im guessing.

i just need to find some braided/flexable air line now. i dont like the stiff plastic air line hornblastrers provides. it doesnt bend enough for where i want to put it. after i get that, train horns will be next

 

[Anime]

Fluted is the technical name for it, basically just the name for the lens that directs the light. On the "Euro" clears, like the newer headlights, the reflector itself is shaped to direct the light and the lens is just a smooth piece.

There are a few fluted ones from time to time:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clear-Corne...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf71743a9&vxp=mtr

but they tend to be overpriced. Maybe you'll find a cheap set later or or just get clear headlamps.

The way to do it is to match the fuse with the draw of everything behind it. If the stuff behind it only draws 100A max, and you have a 250A fuse, it doesn't offer much protection. You're still protecting the devices from a big amp surge, but not quite the kind of protection for using a fuseable link in the first place. Still better than nothing, but for the price of a fuse, I'd get one to match the present or possible future currrent rather than just slapping the 250A on there.

 

[Xeek]

damn haha. wish i saw those before. and itll be awhile before i get new headlights, mine are brand new. im fine with how it looks for now.

so 30a compressor and 15a for air valve. so that mega fuse should only be 45a? do they sell one to fit my fuse block? i wanted to use that cause i already know the 0g wire fits inside it and i already have the wire cut correctly to use that one lol

 

[Anime]

Anything is better than getting a ticket for a busted light. Maybe you'll find someone that wants to trade for the fluted corners, or maybe you'll just find a deal on those black headlights. Word of warning on the bulbs though, they usually come with cheap ones that don't last all that long. Keep an eye out for either the parking or signal going out. I suggest the Sylvania Long Life bulbs, they last forever and they are cheap at walmart or Advance.

Those blade type fuses are more for car audio applications, such as running to a distribution box for a lot of amplifiers, hence the high rating. I don't think they even make them below 100A or something. You'd probably have to go with a Maxi-type fuse, the same big bladed type that's in the factory fuse box.

I think a trick and clean setup is to use an ATO/Maxi box like the factory one, then use one of the Maxi fuse slots for the main fuse for that box. I'd probably just use a 50A fuse. This is also cheap to do since you can just pull fuse boxes at the junkyard, and just cut one up to work. You can also just snag all the Mini/ATO/Maxi fuses you want from fuse boxes in the salvage yard as well. Beats paying for those fancy fuse boxes and fancy blade fuses. Keep a ziploc baggie full of 'em in the glove compartment.

 

[Xeek]

got some grey double lighted visors at the junkyard for $16. and i ordered some grey suede headliner, 2yards of it. when the headliner comes in ill run the wires for the lights on the mirrors. and ill steal the 2nd gen OHC out of my exploder and put it in the ranger and run those wires when i do the headliner. you might be able to see the imprint i made already for the OHC between the visors.

 

[Xeek]

got my headliner done. need to button up the rest of the interrior trim. then ill post pics and a write up since it was so difficult to take out

 

[Xeek]

got it all done. im still waiting til next weekend to goto the junkyard and get a lighted vanity mirror wire harness so i can wire those up. and i still need to finish the wiring for the ohc ignition/ground/vss/temp wires/other wire i forgot what its for. the dome and map wires are already done.

headliner

ohc

 

[jd4242]

Looks good.you need to steam it and brush it,all kinds of hand prints and stuff on it.

 

[Xeek]

i brush it with my hand every time i get in lol
steam it for what?

 

[Anime]

I dunno, I thought just having fabric above the sun visors was pretty cool.

 

[Xeek]

Lol.
I need to recover them at some point. That fabric is kinda nasty. I may end up buying another yard and more glue. Cover the 4 visors, carpet on the bottom of the door panels, and the fabric on the armrest part of the door panels. Would look pretty good with all that done in suede I think.
I know its just a dd breater-ish truck. But I do wanna make it personal and nice to look at and enjoy the ride. Simple things that don't cost much sounds good to me.

 

[Xeek]

replacing my filler neck today. its got common cracking on the rubber. i love having a crane, i even used it to pick up the tool box without taking everything out lol

 

[Scott B.]

That's cheating!

But, it is a really good idea...

 

[Xeek]

haha. no one said i couldnt cheat

beds about to go back on now. i just got done changing the thermostat and flushed the coolant a few times. hopefully this solves my 'getting way to hot......... oh ****! oh ****! oh now its going back down..' symptom. as in itll get halfway across the gauge slowly. then itll just jump within 4seconds all the way to halfway between L and the HOT. then fall back down to O-R. and repeat itself about 4 times until the trucks fully warmed up. 15min of driving

 

[jd4242]

If you ain't cheatn ,you ain't trying hard enough!!

 

[Scott B.]

If you ain't cheatn ,you ain't trying hard enough!!

A NASCAR fan, huh?

 

[jd4242]

A NASCAR fan, huh?

Hahah hell yea!!lately its been disappointing

 

[Xeek]

lol

i filled up the tank tonight, no leaks! truck didnt get past the O-M on the temp gauge at all. stayed at N-O mostly. this is a 190* thermostat. but the real test will be seeing if it stops leaking or got rid of the air bubble or whatever the problem was making it so bad.

and what i find sad is 3.08s and 28.03" tires, i managed a one wheel peel in front of my house. and in the exploder with bald 32s, prob around 31.4"? and 3.73s and a locker, i got nothing! i even sprayed the street with a hose!

 

[jd4242]

lol

and what i find sad is 3.08s and 28.03" tires, i managed a one wheel peel in front of my house. and in the exploder with bald 32s, prob around 31.4"? and 3.73s and a locker, i got nothing! i even sprayed the street with a hose!

Double the weight and double the traction .AND a bad trans!

 

[Xeek]

True. And I did still have the bed off . Imma try it again tomorrow. I'm determined now lol