How to: - 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel

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Are the most recent photos, above, of a 2dr or 4dr?

I imagine the floor pan and cut location will be slightly different between the two.

Can anyone point to, or post, photos of this on a 2nd gen 4dr (Mine is a '99)?
Thanks
 



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^ It's still going to be the same relative position, where the floor pan bends upward to create the recess that the tank sits under.
 






^ It's still going to be the same relative position, where the floor pan bends upward to create the recess that the tank sits under.

Are you sure? It seems that the relationship between the tank opening and the rear seat/floor pan supports,etc.. would have to be different on a 2dr vs 4dr, given the different body length/configuration. In other words, if you lined up a 2dr and a 4dr next to each other, the front bumpers perfectly even, would the back seats also be perfectly even with each other? I don't think so. I also don;t think the gas tanks would be lined up either. In fact, I seem to recall the 2dr and 4dr having different size gas tanks, which would definitely affect where the pump sits relative to any interior "stuff"
 






You could always get out a tape measure and compare outside and inside measurements from the door, or the rear, whichever but the tank is in the recess as already mentioned.
 






4 door 98 XLT?

Has anyone had success using this method on a 4 door 98 XLT?

I may have to do this or drop the tank.

So here is my "shpeil";

Over the summer, my Ex all of the sudden had the check engine light flashing, and ran like it only had a few of the 6 cylinders firing. A-zone read the code, and said it likely just needed a tune-up. I took it to a local shop, cause I did not want to deal with those three plugs on the passenger side. Local shop said it was intake manifold ($385.00).

I ended up waiting a while, took it to a guy that does this for a living, "and on the side", he replaced the intake, even though it was not the source of the codes, however he said the intake gasket was shot due to the constant backfiring that occurred while driving it on the reduced # of cylinders.

After the intake was replaced, he still kept getting codes, and ended up figuring out that two injectors were clogged. After he was done ($580.00), I noticed that occasionally, I would go to start it, and it would not kick over. The engine cranked, but no joy! I played around, and discovered if I cycled the fuel pump a couple of times, it would fire right over.

This all being said, it still happens after replacing the "CLOGGED" fuel filter. Chunks of rust came out.... I also ran a bottle of Seafoam through her. It is better, but still happens on occasion. I'm thinking there is a bunch of rust from the tank, fill neck, and whatever else trapped in the pump (check valve), allowing the fuel to fall out back into the tank.

If I need to change out the pump, I want to use this mod, but two other fellas said it would not work with 97/98 XLT.

Any takers?:thumbsup:
 






There's no such thing as it won't work on any vehicle with top mounted pump assembly and no structural subframe area in the way.

However, changing the pump does not seem to be the whole solution in your case, if your tank is putting rust through the fuel system you need to pull it and coat it or replace it so there is no need to cut a hole to access the pump with the tank needing pulled anyway... for inspection, even if there is not any rust coming from it you need to know either way.
 






First post here. But I read a lot here. Just wanted to Thank everyone who contributed to this thread. It was a real time saver.

To the person with the 4 door 98 XLT. Yes it will work. Just fine I have the same model. Just cut the the floor panel out about 2 inches over more to the left. Once you have everything unhooked and unbolted the pump will slide right out. With no problem.And the new one will slide in just as easy.

Again Thanks to everyone. Great thread.:thumbsup:
 






great thread..

my truck died the other week and after $120 tow and some testing i realized i needed a fuel pump.. ordered one from rockauto, pulled up this thread and began..

i did run into the issues other 98 owners were having, that there was a thick frame/support piece in the way, but the air chisel took care of that, just notched it..

got the old pump out (which didnt look to old), inspected the inside of the tank (damn clean might i add), installed new pump and began to replace the fuel filter since its a new pump..

got down and started, come to find out, I probably DIDNT need a fuel pump.... the damn inlet line to the fuel filter was pinched so tight it was restricting the flow to a measly 10psi....


so tip to others, if you are having fuel delivery issues, check the lines just before the quick release fittings too. it might just save you $150... o well, got a back up pump now.
 






I just want to thank everyone, especially the original poster of this thread for this. Just did this on my '96 Centaurus Explorer and it worked out great.
I managed to spill some gas from the old pump while doing it but overall it wasn't bad. Definitely better than dropping the tank.
ExplorerCentaurus1996017_zpsdd198198.jpg
 






Re:

I just want to thank everyone, especially the original poster of this thread for this. Just did this on my '96 Centaurus Explorer and it worked out great.
I managed to spill some gas from the old pump while doing it but overall it wasn't bad. Definitely better than dropping the tank.
ExplorerCentaurus1996017_zpsdd198198.jpg

that was a good example
 






Thanks.
To be honest, replacing the pump didn't fix it. It wasn't getting fuel because it had an electric fault - not getting power to the pump. I fixed that the Mickey Moose method. As a test, after putting in the new pump, I ran a wire from the battery and spliced it into the pump wiring. It worked so after not having the use of the car for a few days and needing it for work the next day I added a toggle switch in the dash (to turn it on or off) and its still going with that. It was supposed to be temporary. lol
Someday I'll find a wire under the dash that works with the key on and delete the toggle switch. :exp:
 






Are the most recent photos, above, of a 2dr or 4dr?

I imagine the floor pan and cut location will be slightly different between the two.

Can anyone point to, or post, photos of this on a 2nd gen 4dr (Mine is a '99)?
Thanks

It is a 96 4 door xlt
 






Thanks.
To be honest, replacing the pump didn't fix it. It wasn't getting fuel because it had an electric fault - not getting power to the pump. I fixed that the Mickey Moose method. As a test, after putting in the new pump, I ran a wire from the battery and spliced it into the pump wiring. It worked so after not having the use of the car for a few days and needing it for work the next day I added a toggle switch in the dash (to turn it on or off) and its still going with that. It was supposed to be temporary. lol
Someday I'll find a wire under the dash that works with the key on and delete the toggle switch. :exp:

Seems like a well hidden toggle switch would be an anti-theft measure. Why not just trace the original wire and find the fault?
 






Are you sure? It seems that the relationship between the tank opening and the rear seat/floor pan supports,etc.. would have to be different on a 2dr vs 4dr, given the different body length/configuration. In other words, if you lined up a 2dr and a 4dr next to each other, the front bumpers perfectly even, would the back seats also be perfectly even with each other? I don't think so. I also don;t think the gas tanks would be lined up either. In fact, I seem to recall the 2dr and 4dr having different size gas tanks, which would definitely affect where the pump sits relative to any interior "stuff"

They don't need to be lined up because you aren't using a tape measure to measure from the front bumper to make the cut.

Inside the floor pan bends up to create the tank recess. The cut is in the same place relative to that hump in the floor pan on both 2 dr and 4 dr. If they came out with a new body style with 6 doors, it would still be in the same place relative to the floor pan hump because that's the only reason the floor pan hump is there, to make room for the gas tank and give it more clearance from the ground. Sorry if I did not explain this well last time.
 






Seems like a well hidden toggle switch would be an anti-theft measure. Why not just trace the original wire and find the fault?
To be honest, wiring is not my forte. I've learned to live with the toggle switch instead. I blew several days trying to find that fault back in February.

I didn't plan on having the Explorer much past winter but its summer and I haven't replaced it. Its reliable, comfortable enough to get me through another winter, I'm sure. The Centaurus conversion is weird though. :fart:
 






Is a tin snipped meant for 18 gauge gonna do the trick in this endeavor?
 






Is a tin snipped meant for 18 gauge gonna do the trick in this endeavor?

If you were stuck on a deserted island it's worth a try but otherwise that's a hard way to try to do it.
 






If you were stuck on a deserted island it's worth a try but otherwise that's a hard way to try to do it.

Replace the deserted with remote, and you got my place of living :D

Just drilled a bunch of holes and connected them with the snipper. Despite my body being steeled from years of pushing pencils and bending paper clips, it worked out pretty well. My boy was a bit disappointed today as he didn't learn any new swear words.

I only don't get the primary hose off that sucker. The tool bites, but the hose doesn't budge. Gave it a good dose of PB Blaster and called it quits for the night. The first beer went "psht" twice...

Thank you again for this great forum. Without you guys I might still lie under the truck and curse the rusted tank straps.
 






The fuel line tool is a bit awkward. Sometimes I can remove every line no problem, other times I can't get it to work at all.

There was no way I was going to drop the tank, outside during winter in Canada. This is a far better solution.

Good luck with yours. Cheers.
 



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Interesting that Ford didn't think of providing us with a removable trap door to the fuel pump?
 






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