How to: - 2nd Gen NO AC ( or heat) FROM VENTS!!! A "How to" what to look for thread | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 2nd Gen NO AC ( or heat) FROM VENTS!!! A "How to" what to look for thread

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Well I checked the vacuum lines under the wheel well and found nothing. I checked my original canister and it holds vacuum so it wasn't the culprit also it has two different sizes on the connections, so you can't cross them up. Did find a bad 90 degree elbow connector on the heater control valve. Replaced, made no difference. Have traced just about every inch of line on the unit and have found no breakage, rub thru spots or disconnects. Now, I have been having trouble with the heater control valve leaking antifreeze lately, could this be related?
 



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Going to replace the heater control valve with a Ford unit. If nothing changes, she goes to the shop on Monday.
 






Replace the heater control valve, it's leaking so there's not much to do there; now, did you checked all the vacuum lines in the engine bay? all those lines are connected to the same vacuum source that the air conditioner control is connected to, which means that any vacuum leak will have an effect on the system: EGR, Fuel Recirculation, Air Conditioner, Heater, Brakes and PCV. If you checked and found nothing, check again and replace the heater valve; check the lines that go into the passenger side bay, you'll find two lines that come from the firewall, a white one and a black one and a connector; it's very easy to hit it with a foot and disconnect it, so check there before going to the shop; your pocket will be thankfull!
Those white and black lines go to the control know in my X-sport, I have manual controls, so I'm not sure if it's the same on yours which is automatic.
The other thing I would check is all the vacuum lines in the dash; there are a few valves in there, any of them could be disconnected, broken or blocked, just check to be sure.
Like I said before, I'm completely sure that in my X-sport with manual controls for the air conditioner the problem was in the vacuum lines, I fixed the lines and I fixed the problem. Every time I accelerate it would start blowing air through the defogger and the front ducts would close, I checked all the lines and after fixing the lines and placing them in the right way the problem stopped, the CEL light was resetted with a battery pull and have not had that problem ever since.
Today it´s a good day to check those lines; inside and out; any vacuum leak will cause that problem when you accelerate; the engine creates most vacuum when at idle, and the least vacuum when accelerated.
I hope my experience can help you with your X.
Later we can talk about that heater valve, in Venezuela we have no cold weather, at least not where I live, and it's difficult to find a heater control valve because it's a no sell... so I just removed it, put a couple plugs in the water pump and the heater core, and now it's good to go... Just in case you don't need that valve or found no replacement.

Any questions I'll be arround.

Eiber.:salute:
 






Well I'm sitting on a new heater control valve and a new vacuum canister. Neither fixed the problem so I put the old ones back on. The black and white lines are the ones I tracked from under the fender well thru the firewall and out the other side behind the glove box. So from the intake to the back of th A/C control head, I've eyeballed or sprayed all the visible lines, time to quit. It was 95+ here in Texas the other day and I've lost 6 pounds in this heat dealing with this. You'd be surprised how hot you get when the vents stop blowing air. Well she gets to sit out this week because I'm heading back to work Monday driving the Bullitt. Next week I'm off early one day and I'll take her in then.
 






Well I'm sitting on a new heater control valve and a new vacuum canister. Neither fixed the problem so I put the old ones back on. The black and white lines are the ones I tracked from under the fender well thru the firewall and out the other side behind the glove box. So from the intake to the back of th A/C control head, I've eyeballed or sprayed all the visible lines, time to quit. It was 95+ here in Texas the other day and I've lost 6 pounds in this heat dealing with this. You'd be surprised how hot you get when the vents stop blowing air. Well she gets to sit out this week because I'm heading back to work Monday driving the Bullitt. Next week I'm off early one day and I'll take her in then.

I feel for you. My 98 has blown hot air for many years while on AC. I'm down to either the blend door or the EATC itself. For some reason mine is routing air through the heater core almost all of the time. I think it's the blend door really, every blue moon it will work okay for a short time, but I think a little vibration or a change in the control direction(hot/cold based on temp chosen), moves the blend door back to the heater core.

It's really hard to drive in 90* or more with hot air coming out.
 






Ok, the saga continues. Drove it to the store last night and no a/c at all. Massive leak. Green dye showing around the compressor and a puddle under it. My fault, put an "el cheapo" rebuilt compressor on a while back :nono: (yes I put oil in the unit and it did last 3 years) This time will put a brand new one on and once again go over as much of the vacuum lines as possible. :hammer:
 






Replaced the compressor, accumulator, and orfice tube this am. Taking it down to a friends shop on monday to have the system evacuated and charged. Next weekend, one last shot at finding the vacuum leak. One question though. My X may have only 2-3 years left in this world (or at least with me), and since I live in (we think winter is a myth) central Texas, is it possible to just fix the system so it only blows thru the vents? That is about the ony setting I use anyway, no matter heat or the a/c.
 






After the a/c was recharged, ripped her apart again looking for the vacuum leak, no luck. But I did find the door that controls the dash/defroster vents. I disconnected the vacuum control's rod from the door and set the door to blow thru the dash vents, and the heater (floor) setting still works. When the system "defaults" now, it will still blow thru the dash vents. This will hold me until the weather cools enough to to search some more. Happy Happy Happy.
 






I have one hose coming out of the top of the reservoir on the top and connects to nothing. Any idea where that black hose goes to?
 






One vacuum line comes from the engine vacuum and the other goes to the A/C Control Knob in the dash.

Eiber. :salute:
 






I've been fighting this for about a year now (1997 Sport 4.0 EFI). I thought it was the blend door, but it appears to be working on it's own so now I've been reading this thread and noted where it was said by Turdle that the heater control valve will close when the max a/c is selected, so I checked this out and the valve doesn't move at all (unless I move it manually), in fact, there's no vacuum there at all, but it did apparently have vacuum since the valve was closed (the rod was drawn into the small canister) on two separate occasions that I can think of, but when I am actually working to find a cause, it doesn't work. I've got vacuum to the globe, but I have not pulled the line under the dash to see if vacuum is reaching under the dash, although the max a/c door works just fine, and it's vacuum operated.

Is it conceivable that the control valve is defective? Wouldn't I at least have vacuum to the valve? I've placed the climate controls in every setting possible to try and get it to move with zero results.
 






Check the grey line from reservoir to the bypass valve. It might be cracked, or crushed. The reservoir might be full of condensed moisture, you might remove it and give it a shake.
 






Eureka!! I pulled the gray line that feeds the hot water cut off valve and put compressed air to it, and couldn't get anything to go through, so I cleaned it a bit and found a collapsed spot about 3 inches down from where the elbow attaches. Cut the bad spot out, re-connected the elbow and re-attached to the valve and it works just fine now.

Thanks for the guidance!!
 






Re Post #11
Thank you for this post & photos. I just bought my '98 Ranger 180 K miles because my mechanic friend of 30 years had replaced the engine and trans and the body was rust free. However, the heater controls didn't work except in defrost mode and I had a check engine light.

After rereading this post for several nights, I broke down and removed the frt passenger wheel well liner. Took 90 minutes. (My private personal nickname is "Thumbs") Lo, I found a melted black vacuum line (the one from the canister to firewall fitting). Which is one of the predicted causes of my predicament. Used a piece of rubber vac hose to splice it and heater control now works in all positions. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes to reset check engine light. Wow, it no longer lights up! Problem solved.

This truck is my first pickup and for practical purposes is my 71st b'day toy, so thx again.
 






Replaced thermostat control , heater worked ,but you could hear the door for heat open . Now no heat! What's the problem? I get a little heat on the floor but no heat out the defrost or vents. Can anyone help!
 






Replaced thermostat control , heater worked ,but you could hear the door for heat open . Now no heat! What's the problem?

You'll need to look for answers in the 3rd gen sub forum. This thread applies to 1995-2001 only.
 






hey i saw this post and was wondering what my problem is i have a 1998 ford explorer (eddie baur edition) and the ac blows through the normal vents when its on but when i turn the ac off it constantly blows through the dash defrost vents?
 






hey i saw this post and was wondering what my problem is i have a 1998 ford explorer (eddie baur edition) and the ac blows through the normal vents when its on but when i turn the ac off it constantly blows through the dash defrost vents?

Read through the first few posts, check everything and you'll find it!
 






Hi so glad I found this thread..
.I had dual problems with removing and repairing the cowl around the radio and then we had the battery replaced.

So now i get the defrost a/c problem
But if i turn it to PANEL
Then blower to first setting
Then turn panel to AC
The ac blows properly and I can turn blower all the way up

Seems like a leak not a fail.
If you were me wpuld you check behind the ac controls
Or the battery area (battery was in and out a few times occurs to me it could weaken the hose)
Any advice?

Love my expedition. Want to keep it forever!
 



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Ok, now it is important to understand a bit of how it is supposed to work together-

On the back of the HVAC control is a vacuum switch connection-with several colors of rubber hoses connected to it.
The vent functions are vacuum controlled and powered-there are no cables or wires involved.

Here is the rear of the switch with the plug removed


Is this behind the AC controls in the dash? Gotta take out radio bezel and then pull ac controller?
 






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