Roof Rack / Rail Removal

[LakersCentral]

So I tried an experiment with the additional ~8" on each side that isn't used of the Cowles trim. (FYI- I wasn't thinking when I bought the Cowles trim- but only 1 roll of 16' is need to cover both sides. Not sure how it escaped me that the roof is not 16 feet long haha.)

I drilled 2 holes down the center and installed on the back 2 bolts. So far I've just been runnin the bare bolts w/ a series of metal & rubber washers to seal out the water. Functionally, its worked ok... but doesn't look all that great.

I was pretty sure it would work with the rail & the washers to seal out the water. And it has. The main problem I've run into is having to get the bolt drilled in the precise location as to stretch the rail down. I still think it could be done, but the bolt location would have to be slightly adjustable somehow (and yet stay secure once in place).

Ideas?

 

[bill_5r]

I'm just going to throw this out there but have you thought about Velcro? You would be able to skip the areas that have bolt holes so you could put your rack back on anytime you needed it. I'm thinking you would have enough surface area that the Velcro would hold it no problem, just make sure you tuck the front under the rubber trim around the windshield so the wind can't get under it.

 

[LakersCentral]

hmm. that just might work Bill... if i could find a low profile, super strong velcro.

I could even put the velcro over the bolt holes, then drill through the velcro when i want to put the rails back on. there would also be no need to take off the velcro, cause it would be covered by the rails.

So the only thing I'd worry about it durability (goin through car washes, etc). But I think you're on to something there. thanks!

 

[LukerDooker]

Home Depot has a Velcro display stand, with various strength vecro, including one made for outside.
Their example is velcroing a planter to the top of a brick wall so it doesnt fall or move.

Its good stuff but wont hold on everything, due to temperature changes between the day and night. The glue side of the velcro ends up peeling off of 1 or both surfaces.

I velcro'd an electronic eye to a TV, the velcro side held fine but it peeled off the plastic of the TV overnight where the nite temp was set to 60.

A porous surface may hold better, but I doubt in these winter temps you can count on it to stick to the car roof area.

The velcro itself has large nibs that interlock-it holds well but it allows back and forth movement. Highway speeds and cross winds could rip the velcro apart if its exposed enough.

 

[LakersCentral]

A porous surface may hold better, but I doubt in these winter temps you can count on it to stick to the car roof area.

What's "winter"? I live in southern California ;p

You make a good point tho. At the moment, I'm considering trying a combination of bolts and velcro. The velcro would hold it down enough to keep it from bowing, and give a bit of horizontal tolerance on the drilling holes. So I could then drill oval holes with a flat top/bottom i.e.: (___), and use the bolts to simply secure it all down.

As for durability, super glue could be used to attach the velcro to the trim, and also to the gutter tape. The velcro would never need to be removed from either surface... as the raised rails could sit right over top of it.

I could also probably do without the front-most bolts (for a better look). Simply using the velcro and tucking in the front under the lip would hopefully do the trick. The bolts on top cant be seen for the most part, but I'll get them powder coated black to match, or maybe some black flat-like bolt covers (if such a thing exists).

Another thought would be to try and use the velcro with the factory front 'L' sections, then the Cowles trim the rest of the way back.

 

[LakersCentral]

FYI, anyone looking to go the other way and get the raised rails, the part numbers are: 55114, 55140, 50002, 55182, 551A46, HS1. One of these for each side and your retail total is $688 +tax/shipping (fordparts.com).

 

[SHAD0W]

What's "winter"? I live in southern California ;p

You make a good point tho. At the moment, I'm considering trying a combination of bolts and velcro. The velcro would hold it down enough to keep it from bowing, and give a bit of horizontal tolerance on the drilling holes. So I could then drill oval holes with a flat top/bottom i.e.: (___), and use the bolts to simply secure it all down.

As for durability, super glue could be used to attach the velcro to the trim, and also to the gutter tape. The velcro would never need to be removed from either surface... as the raised rails could sit right over top of it.

I could also probably do without the front-most bolts (for a better look). Simply using the velcro and tucking in the front under the lip would hopefully do the trick. The bolts on top cant be seen for the most part, but I'll get them powder coated black to match, or maybe some black flat-like bolt covers (if such a thing exists).

Another thought would be to try and use the velcro with the factory front 'L' sections, then the Cowles trim the rest of the way back.

If you foresee having problems using the Velcro because of it's questionable adhesion to the body, you could try removing the adhesive portion off the back of the Velcro... say with Goo Gone, for example. Then use 3M auto tape to secure the Velcro to the body. Since most of us have had good experiences with 3M auto double-sided tape, maybe this could work, without relying on the Velcro's own adhesive.

 

[AdmiralLopez]

2012 Roof Rail Removal

Can someone give me a step by step on how to remove my Roof Rails on a 2012 Ford Explorer?

TANKS

 

[Halwg]

Do a search on here. I know I read a thread about doing that before.

 

[peterk9]

Can someone give me a step by step on how to remove my Roof Rails on a 2012 Ford Explorer?

TANKS

Welcome to the Forum. :wavey:
Using the Forum's 'Search' program I found this existing thead and merged yours with it.

Peter

 

[comper]

Can someone give me a step by step on how to remove my Roof Rails on a 2012 Ford Explorer? TANKS

Its quite easy. First pry off the plastic covers at the end and front of the rail. You can do it by hand, but it's much easier with tools. Unscrew both front and back and slide the rail either forward or backwards, can't remember, but the centre detachment has a plastic hook securing the rail. Once the rail is off you can see the screw inside the centre detachment... Done!

 

[Medic531]

I assume it wouldn't be any harder putting them back on, correct? I am wanting to take mine off my 2015 black explorer but not sure if im going to like it so I want to make sure they can go back on just as easy as they come off.

 

[LakersCentral]

easy to put back on too... but you'll need new rubber washers. they'll be all messed up due to age and poor design of brackets (water gets trapped inside). i have written down these specs: 3/16" x 1/2" x 1/16". they're available at HD/Lowes for about $1, and come in packs of 2. you'll need 6 packs (12 washers total).

FYI: I cant verify at the moment that's the correct size of the OEM ones. they might just be the dimensions I wanted to install flat rails. cant remember sorry. maybe someone else cant verify, or I'll update when I get the flat rails installed (long overdue project!).

 

[Halwg]

IDK, looks "bald" to me. I actually like racks

Me, too. The bigger the racks, the better!

 

[AdmiralLopez]

thanks guys! I did it, pretty easy. I just put bolts back in without washers. Is that okay. Also the two front rail molding pieces are just kinda sitting there. I used gorilla tape to keep the back portion down. Any suggestions for the front rail moldings?

 

[peterk9]

......I just put bolts back in without washers. Is that okay...?

Although I'm not that familiar with the setup, will just putting the bolts back in prevent water from seeping in around them? Would it not be better to use a rubber washer or something similar to ensure a waterproof seal? The 'Water Leak' thread has many posts that attribute water leaks to the area where the roof rail is fastened to the body.

Peter

 

[Medic531]

thanks guys! I did it, pretty easy. I just put bolts back in without washers. Is that okay. Also the two front rail molding pieces are just kinda sitting there. I used gorilla tape to keep the back portion down. Any suggestions for the front rail moldings?

Pics?

 

[AdmiralLopez]

UPDATE with PICS

OK guys, since having removed my roof rack i was left with a problem up front. The molding that was normally held down by the actual rails was sticking up so i used gorilla tape - YUCK

So I did some investigating and found out that the police interceptor utilities have a special moulding....copied VIN number and gave FORD a call!



I am very happy with results! $94 total for both sides

 

[Medic531]

Nice work! I will attempt this project next month. I hope for the same results!

 

[Azazell64]

Does anybody have an updated part number for DB5Z-785002-A and DB5Z-785002-B as they don't seem to show up one Tasca as a valid part number.

Thanks.