Explorer Audio upgrade(s) | Page 19 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Ok all in all what is good

I have not added Dynamat to the Explorer. It's my opinion that the Explorer is fairly quite in the cabin, at least my Limited is. I'm not saying Dynamite wouldn't help, but I don't find the road noise terrible in the Explorer.

I have used Dynamite in the past and it's a good reminder how much audio quality is lost to road noise.

Ok....I have gone through the 19 pages and there has been a lot " what is good ...opinions"

I ma so new to this that I will have my system installed at a shop. However, they only carry what they want to carry and cannot diversify there product lines.
SO that brings me to my question.......WHAT TO BUY?

I would love to have an amp and signal processor under the passenger and driver seats and a 10' sub in the rear ......JL TW3

I have a 2016 explorer XLT...no sony stereo.

good help will be much appreciated.

I would love to replace the speakers down the road but one thing at a time. I absolutely love EDM music and Hard Techno.....but I still enjoy clear punch.

I have a thing for Focal speakers and Polk audio. \
...recommendations?
 



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Ok....I have gone through the 19 pages and there has been a lot " what is good ...opinions"

I ma so new to this that I will have my system installed at a shop. However, they only carry what they want to carry and cannot diversify there product lines.
SO that brings me to my question.......WHAT TO BUY?

I would love to have an amp and signal processor under the passenger and driver seats and a 10' sub in the rear ......JL TW3

I have a 2016 explorer XLT...no sony stereo.

good help will be much appreciated.

I would love to replace the speakers down the road but one thing at a time. I absolutely love EDM music and Hard Techno.....but I still enjoy clear punch.

I have a thing for Focal speakers and Polk audio. \
...recommendations?

If you are using a shop for the install and as you mentioned they only carry a few brands, we would need to know which brands those are.

No matter which brands they offer, go to the shop and listen to the speakers for yourself. Don't rely on someone telling you what speakers sound best. What I think are the best speakers may be crap in your opinion because of what we deem as important good sound characteristics. I may just like rumble for bass, whereas you've stated you like quick, punchy bass. So if I recommend Kicker subs (just an example, I'm not saying they are sloppy), you may hate them because of their sound while I'll call you crazy because the bass is "amazing".

If sound quality is your number one concern, then bass, I would recommend a nice aftermarket processor. Maybe the JL Audio Fix. Another great option is if you can find a gently used JBL MS-8 or something along that line. It's a DSP and amp in one and will customize the sound to the interior of your car.

Then you can add a separate sub amp and your sound will be greatly improved.
 






If you send me your email in a pm, I'll send you a write up on what I did in my '16 XLT...sounds like you're interested in doing something similar.
 






If you are using a shop for the install and as you mentioned they only carry a few brands, we would need to know which brands those are.

No matter which brands they offer, go to the shop and listen to the speakers for yourself. Don't rely on someone telling you what speakers sound best. What I think are the best speakers may be crap in your opinion because of what we deem as important good sound characteristics. I may just like rumble for bass, whereas you've stated you like quick, punchy bass. So if I recommend Kicker subs (just an example, I'm not saying they are sloppy), you may hate them because of their sound while I'll call you crazy because the bass is "amazing".

If sound quality is your number one concern, then bass, I would recommend a nice aftermarket processor. Maybe the JL Audio Fix. Another great option is if you can find a gently used JBL MS-8 or something along that line. It's a DSP and amp in one and will customize the sound to the interior of your car.

Then you can add a separate sub amp and your sound will be greatly improved.

Thanks for your help. I will look into those sound processors you mentioned. The ms-8 I looked into already as I saw it in the 19 pages. It looks nice and has good reviews . I will look around for sure

OK here is a really newbie question. If the sub is 400w 4 ohms the amp to power it would need to be a 400w 4 ohms too.?
Mono amp.
What is the difference between a mono or class D amp. ? Is there a difference.

Your rite I really enjoy good quality sounding music.
I once went into a audio store to ask about a specific tube amplifier and the guy looks at me and says" we do t carry tube amps those are for people who think they can hear the grass whisper, if you want real music come back and get a digital amp."
Lol .....I believe everyone likes what think they like . And should not be put down for their tastes. ...what a guy lol
 






OK here is a really newbie question. If the sub is 400w 4 ohms the amp to power it would need to be a 400w 4 ohms too.?
Mono amp.
What is the difference between a mono or class D amp. ? Is there a difference.

Drivers (subs or speakers) will normally list a suggested power consumption and a peak power consumption. These are guidelines. You can use a 1000 watt amp with a 400 watt subwoofer because of how amps work with drivers. This is not exact, but in real simple terms think of it this way....the driver will reach it's max excursion with roughly 400 watts. but since a 1,000 watt amp doesn't constantly output 1000 watts, the 1000 watt amp will work well with a 400 watt driver until it's outputting 400 watts. There are many other factors that come into play, but that's a down and dirty way of thinking of it. You have a bigger chance of damaging a driver with a underpowered amp than overpowered.

A mono amp and a Class D amp are two totally different things. Mono means the amp is outputting a single channel. An amp can be bridged to combine the power of two or more channels into a single (mono) channel. Class D amp is a description of the design of the amp. Class D amps are a design allowing high power output in a small design and using lighter part components.

For a better understanding of all the amp designs, read this: https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/amplifier-classes
 






As blwnsmoke stated above, simply replacing the OEM door speakers would be a pretty big step up in performance. HOWEVER, almost no 6x9 or other sized 2 or 3-way speakers will have the 20-25000Hz response you are looking for. The good news is, you simply do not need it. If you are listening to pop, rap, country, classical... 98% of the music doesn't go below 40Hz nor above 15,000Hz.

A $49.99 pair of Pioneer speakers purchased at Wal-Mart would be a good improvement on the factory speakers. If you get a chance go to a car stereo shop and demo some speakers to find what you like best. This is key as every speaker sounds different and every person has difference sound preferences. You could be surprised at how good a pair of $99 speakers sound and how much different they sound than another brand of $99 speakers.

Hi Deewan

Well after re-reading this entire thread, (did not see it before my first post) I have learned that there are two systems offered in the Gen5
My 2013 9 speaker is not covered as well as the Sony and the Amp mods.
My approach was different. I removed the OEM Ford toy speakers from the rear doors. Replacement was with a new old stock Infinity Kappa 63.91 3-way.
I old school hard mounted them to the door. Using the existing wires I clipped the ends and pieced them out to the Kappas built in crossover. They are not sealed in any way. They also have almost zero Bass.
I do not know if they are defective. (Don't think so) or if they being mounted so, or that the signal to them is not filtered. I do not think that last part has been answered here completely. It was talked about but not defined. Also are the read door speakers bridged to the third seat mini speakers which could reduce power... Possibly. Looking for a next step. Does anyone know if the rear door speaker wires come directly from the HU?
 






So you have the 9 speaker non-Sony system. I'm not familiar with that system so anyone who is, please step in if I state something wrong.

First, do you have pictures of how you mounted and wired the new Infinity speakers? If the speakers are not sealed in the door, bass will be greatly reduced. Bass benefits from having a driver mounted in an enclosure of some form. From your comment, it almost sounds like the speaker is just attached to the door at may not create a seal.

Also are you sure you kept the polarity correct? If you have one wired correctly and the other reversed, you'll lose bass with that mixup as well.

I'm 99% sure the rear door speakers are not wired with the rear speakers in the cargo area. And if they were, it isn't a given that would cause the drivers to get less power. All depends on how they are wired, but I won't get into that because I'd be shocked if they were wired together.
 






I can tell you for sure that the rear door speakers are wired in parallel with the 3rd row speakers in the 9-speaker non-Sony system in my 2016 XLT. They are different impedance and the 3rd row also have capacitors on them to block bass. This is for a non-amplified premium system in a 2016...not sure the 2013'same are the same.
 






I can tell you for sure that the rear door speakers are wired in parallel with the 3rd row speakers in the 9-speaker non-Sony system in my 2016 XLT. They are different impedance and the 3rd row also have capacitors on them to block bass. This is for a non-amplified premium system in a 2016...not sure the 2013'same are the same.

Thanks
Are the wire colors the same as the second seat on to the 3rd seat on your Ex??
 






No, they were black and black with white at the 3rd row speakers....I simply disconnected them and capped off the wires at the speakers...that way all of the signal is feeding the rear doors only off those channels.
 






So you have the 9 speaker non-Sony system. I'm not familiar with that system so anyone who is, please step in if I state something wrong.

First, do you have pictures of how you mounted and wired the new Infinity speakers? If the speakers are not sealed in the door, bass will be greatly reduced. Bass benefits from having a driver mounted in an enclosure of some form. From your comment, it almost sounds like the speaker is just attached to the door at may not create a seal.

Also are you sure you kept the polarity correct? If you have one wired correctly and the other reversed, you'll lose bass with that mixup as well.

I'm 99% sure the rear door speakers are not wired with the rear speakers in the cargo area. And if they were, it isn't a given that would cause the drivers to get less power. All depends on how they are wired, but I won't get into that because I'd be shocked if they were wired together.

Yes you have it right on the mounting. If I use these in this spot I will remount to the OEM surrounds. I too think it will help the bass. The most interesting part is these are filling all the missing hi's and mids from the OEM toy speakers. I do have to over balance to the rear to get enough to hear them but it's better. Wish I knew what the HU was providing for a signal. It would answer a few questions.
I also am using the CD player to compare thanks to your comments ie. Sirius.
 






No, they were black and black with white at the 3rd row speakers....I simply disconnected them and capped off the wires at the speakers...that way all of the signal is feeding the rear doors only off those channels.

Thanks Geo
Wonder where they are bridged. Were you able to remove the filter as well. it would draw power.

This makes me wonder why one could not run these to a amp to power a small sub for additional bass. Might get the best of both worlds if i cant get the bass I need from the second seat speakers. They are providing bunches more highs and mids then the OEM toys.

Golly now i need to tear out the 1/4 panels. wish it would warm up.
 






I did not pull the panels. There are little trays on the armrest areas of the 3rd row. They have panels that pop out to give access to the shock tower, I think....those panels also give access to the back sides of those 3rd row speakers. Cap was right on the speaker IIRC...I cut further upstream and capped off.
 






I did not pull the panels. There are little trays on the armrest areas of the 3rd row. They have panels that pop out to give access to the shock tower, I think....those panels also give access to the back sides of those 3rd row speakers. Cap was right on the speaker IIRC...I cut further upstream and capped off.

Outstanding.
 






Deewan can you keep me straight here.
These Kappas have a sensitivity rating of 95 dB at 2 ohm impedance.

Standard sensitivity is 85 DB into 4 ohms impedance.

These Kappas will need more power to perform better??? Or less assuming the standard is correct.
 






No, they were black and black with white at the 3rd row speakers....I simply disconnected them and capped off the wires at the speakers...that way all of the signal is feeding the rear doors only off those channels.

Thanks for the input. It wouldn't be the strangest thing I've seen, but makes very little sense to me why they would do that. Running four speakers off 2 amp channels, one set of speakers full range (second row doors) and the other with bass blockers (cargo area).
 






Thanks Geo
Wonder where they are bridged. Were you able to remove the filter as well. it would draw power.

This makes me wonder why one could not run these to a amp to power a small sub for additional bass. Might get the best of both worlds if i cant get the bass I need from the second seat speakers. They are providing bunches more highs and mids then the OEM toys.

Golly now i need to tear out the 1/4 panels. wish it would warm up.

I think you are still confused a bit about the bridged mode for an amp. I believe you are referring to being rear speakers being wired in parallel or series, not having an amp bridged.

The speaker leads for the rear speakers could be used to provide a signal for a sub amp. The amp would need high level inputs or you need a high level to low level (RCA) converter.

Deewan can you keep me straight here.
These Kappas have a sensitivity rating of 95 dB at 2 ohm impedance.

Standard sensitivity is 85 DB into 4 ohms impedance.

These Kappas will need more power to perform better??? Or less assuming the standard is correct.

Again, I think you are confusing two concepts. High level explanation, the sensitivity will tell you how loud a driver will play with a certain power supply. Normally given as 85db at 1 watt or something like that.

The impedance is what the amp 'sees' and determines how hard the amp must work to power the driver. The lower the ohm rating, the 'harder' the amp has to work and thus the more power it has to output.

If the Kappas have a density of 95, that's pretty darn good. I'm sure the specialized drivers in the Kappas for mis and high explain why you are getting much better sound. The lack of an enclosure would explain your lack of bass. It's no different than listening to a raw speaker that is sitting on the floor. You don't hear much bass. Put the same speaker in a basic cabinet, and the bass starts to boom.
 






Thanks for the input. It wouldn't be the strangest thing I've seen, but makes very little sense to me why they would do that. Running four speakers off 2 amp channels, one set of speakers full range (second row doors) and the other with bass blockers (cargo area).

Just to clarify: my 2016 9-speaker premium system does not have a separate factory amplifier...all 9 speakers are driven by 5 full-range channels of the factory radio. There's a separate center channel pair of hi level speaker wires and 4 pairs of hi level speaker wires going to left front, right front, left rear, and right rear respectively. As best I can tell, all are full range. The 9 speakers use differing impedance and some have capacitors to filter bass. I believe that the signal coming to the right rear and left rear doors is full range and that the 3rd row speaker wires tap off of these...therefore, I think that they could likely be used to feed as high level input to a sub amp, either directly or through a line level converter.
 






left rear doors is full range and that the 3rd row speaker wires tap off of these...therefore, I think that they could likely be used to feed as high level input to a sub amp, either directly or through a line level converter.

That being said... Does a line level converter place a load on input wires?
Dose this device have outputs for a amp??
 



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Not a load that would make a difference to the source feeding it. A line out converter (such as the Audio Control LC-2i or Scosche SLC-4) take speaker level input and put out line level RCA Jacks which can feed and amplifier. However, many amps are now built to accept a range of input types/voltages...and can take speaker level signal as input with no need for a separate converter.
 






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