How to: Explorer LED Interior swap + Puddle Lamps DIY

[deewan]

Which ones did you get from CarID?

Yes, these are the exact LED's I ordered : http://www.carid.com/lumen/replacement-small-led-bulb-194-white-5-leds-mpn-sm194cw.html

I was having no luck with any of the lights purchased on Amazon and had tried the resistor trick which did help with the LED's staying on, but not with them failing or starting to flicker. I've had the LED's for CarID installed since last August and no issues or signs of issues so far. I took a closer look at my Amazon order history and it seems the longest period between orders was 14 weeks. I guess I was a little to nice with my previous 3-6 month estimate for LED life.

 

[NewYorkistanSux]

Thanks, appreciate it!

Yes, these are the exact LED's I ordered : http://www.carid.com/lumen/replacement-small-led-bulb-194-white-5-leds-mpn-sm194cw.html

I was having no luck with any of the lights purchased on Amazon and had tried the resistor trick which did help with the LED's staying on, but not with them failing or starting to flicker. I've had the LED's for CarID installed since last August and no issues or signs of issues so far. I took a closer look at my Amazon order history and it seems the longest period between orders was 14 weeks. I guess I was a little to nice with my previous 3-6 month estimate for LED life.

 

[mmartin028]

[MENTION=301999]mmartin028[/MENTION] I just redid my puddle lights last Friday because the LED lights I ordered from Amazon were always flaking out on me. I got tired of the blinking and decided to buy the Sylvania DE3175LEDBP at O'Reilly's. I'll try to give a quick runs down in hopes it's enough info

1) Pop out the puddle lights. Use a regular screw driver and release the pins on one side of the round puddle lights.
2) I used a dremel and disc wheel to cut the lens away from the housing.
3) Take out the old lights, pop in the new LEDs
4) take the housing back to the Explorer and plug in the wires to ensure LED works. If it doesn't work, switch the positive/negative and try again.
5) Use clear adhesive caulk to attach the lens back to the housing. Let dry
6) Install the housing back into the mirror,

YOU'RE DONE!!!

Thanks for the instructions deewan. This is definitely one mod I'll be tackling soon.

 

[z3roz]

I used 7 watt LEDs for the rear and no hyperflash. I would assume that if 7 watt LEDs are used for the front, then same same, no hyper flash. They weren't cheap though. Cost me over $30 for the rears. Totally worth it though.

 

[z3roz]

I have the same problem with JDM ASTAR LEDs from Amazon. They were fine for 5 months then started randomly blinking.

I've just started having this problem with both puddle lights in my wife's Edge. They were $9/pr so it isn't worth it to warranty them since they want me to send them back before they replace them.

My Exp has the same bulbs and they are working as they should.

 

[davlee88]

I have the same problem with JDMASTAR for my puddle lights. I have replaced it three times so far. POS

I've just started having this problem with both puddle lights in my wife's Edge. They were $9/pr so it isn't worth it to warranty them since they want me to send them back before they replace them.

My Exp has the same bulbs and they are working as they should.

 

[RedDen]

Resistivity is not properly wired on picture 4 post #385 , it has to be connected between + and - (like on the one of the last pictures), otherwise it serves no purpose...

 

[z3roz]

Here's a new one. I soldered a new LED to the 3rd cargo light board, and it lights up fine when the button is pressed, but doesn't light up when the doors are opened. Seriously wtf? No blown fuses, polarity correct, etc.

 

[juanyunis]

Here's a new one. I soldered a new LED to the 3rd cargo light board, and it lights up fine when the button is pressed, but doesn't light up when the doors are opened. Seriously wtf? No blown fuses, polarity correct, etc.

Let me know if you fixed this, because i bought a Ford Fusion 3rd row dome light, which is a white light, and it does the same thing. I was thinking that maybe the circuit of the fusion was different but reading that it happens to you using the stock circuit board, i guess the problem is wattage.

 

[z3roz]

No solution yet. The bulb has a resistor on each lead stock. Not sure why. I put an additional resistor on each 2nd row light and the 3rd row started acting like it did before the LED swap. I just have it off for now and turn it on when I am back there.

 

[MikeFreas]

Like many others, after I changed all the interior lights on my 12 limited (with sun roof), the third row cargo light quit working correctly. Yesterday, I modified the third row assembly adding a ultra bright LED and 1k load resistor. After plunging the light back in it seemed to work but then quit after several op checks with the doors/hatch. I've found that unplugging the light assembly does some form of reset and the light will work correctly for a few cycles but that number is random also. Sometimes it works for five door openings and sometimes only one.

Vice having to fight with the thing I'm thinking of just bypassing the entire circuitboard and installing a relay using the stock housing. I haven't checked to see which wires do what yet. I just want the light to come on and go off when the doors open and close.

If someone has some other insight I'm all ears.

 

[juanyunis]

Like many others, after I changed all the interior lights on my 12 limited (with sun roof), the third row cargo light quit working correctly. Yesterday, I modified the third row assembly adding a ultra bright LED and 1k load resistor. After plunging the light back in it seemed to work but then quit after several op checks with the doors/hatch. I've found that unplugging the light assembly does some form of reset and the light will work correctly for a few cycles but that number is random also. Sometimes it works for five door openings and sometimes only one.

Vice having to fight with the thing I'm thinking of just bypassing the entire circuitboard and installing a relay using the stock housing. I haven't checked to see which wires do what yet. I just want the light to come on and go off when the doors open and close.

If someone has some other insight I'm all ears.

I ended buying it from Dan (http://drivebright.com/home/shop/explorer-led-dome-light-upgrade-single-button-cargo-area/).

 

[MikeFreas]

I ended buying it from Dan (http://drivebright.com/home/shop/explorer-led-dome-light-upgrade-single-button-cargo-area/).

Did you have the same problem and did it fix it?

 

[juanyunis]

Did you have the same problem and did it fix it?

Yes, I received it today, and it worked perfect, It's very very bright, I asked him to use a 6000k color instead of the 5500k. For $45 I think is definitely a great deal, you get a perfect working dome and warranty, and he offers great support.

 

[MikeFreas]

Just wanted to update the forums on what, I hope, is the solution to my problem with the third row light.

I contacted Dan at Drive Bright who asked for a picture of my circuit board assembly, which I sent him. Seems the early 2011 third row lights can't be modified.

If I could find out how to post a pic I'd post the differences.

 

[juanyunis]

Just wanted to update the forums on what, I hope, is the solution to my problem with the third row light.

I contacted Dan at Drive Bright who asked for a picture of my circuit board assembly, which I sent him. Seems the early 2011 third row lights can't be modified.

If I could find out how to post a pic I'd post the differences.

Maybe i need to read this again, but did you just say that yours are not possible to upgrade because they are a 2011 dome?

 

[peterk9]

Just wanted to update the forums on what, I hope, is the solution to my problem with the third row light.

I contacted Dan at Drive Bright who asked for a picture of my circuit board assembly, which I sent him. Seems the early 2011 third row lights can't be modified.

If I could find out how to post a pic I'd post the differences.

I don't know if you see the same options as I do as an Elite member but at the bottom of the "Write your reply" box I have 3 options. "Post Reply", "Upload a File" and "More Options". Selecting "More Options" brings up another page that has options to "Reply to Thread", "Upload a File" and "Preview".

Peter

 

[MikeFreas]

Maybe i need to read this again, but did you just say that yours are not possible to upgrade because they are a 2011 dome?

That is correct. My truck is a 2012 but the light assembly was manufactured in 2011. I bought one from Dan and he's modifying it for me. Total cost, 122.00. It's expensive but I want a light that works.

 

[MikeFreas]

I don't know if you see the same options as I do as an Elite member but at the bottom of the "Write your reply" box I have 3 options. "Post Reply", "Upload a File" and "More Options". Selecting "More Options" brings up another page that has options to "Reply to Thread", "Upload a File" and "Preview".

Peter

Thanks, but I don't have the option to upload a picture under the more options tab.

 

[juanyunis]

That is correct. My truck is a 2012 but the light assembly was manufactured in 2011. I bought one from Dan and he's modifying it for me. Total cost, 122.00. It's expensive but I want a light that works.

Yeah, I bought the whole thing too. $122 is good, I tried to do the mod with my 2016 and it screwed it up haha so i needed a new one and i got it from Dan.