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Keyless Entry (Securicode) Door Pad Not working

Are you pushing 7/8 and 9/0 simultaneously? Don't fat finger it!
 



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Mine would lock intermittently by doing this which was interesting but could not get it to work to unlock using the code.
 






So I believe that the keyless entry pad isn't working properly on my new explorer. If I lock the explorer using the remote, and then unlock it using the remote, get something out, and try to lock the door back using the keypad, it won't lock the truck. Anyone else have an issue of the entry pad being unresponsive?
Is that the only time the pad doesn't work?

Peter
 






Are you pushing 7/8 and 9/0 simultaneously? Don't fat finger it!

Yep, pressing at the same time. If I unlock using the pad I can get it to lock using the pad no issue. It's only the combination of the key and the pad that causes the issue.
 






I just tried it on my MKT. If I use the 'Lock' on the keyfob, I have to enter my Securicode twice to unlock the doors. I tried it 3 times and on each occasion using the Securicode the first time did nothing. The second attempt always unlocked the doors.

Peter
 






I just tried it on my MKT. If I use the 'Lock' on the keyfob, I have to enter my Securicode twice to unlock the doors. I tried it 3 times and on each occasion using the Securicode the first time did nothing. The second attempt always unlocked the doors.

Peter

My recollection is that unlocking works fine regardless of order, it's only the re locking of the doors that is having the issue. I will double check the locking also.

I can't check it now, because I'm not home and I'm not driving it because at 10k miles it also has a transmission leak :mad:
 






My recollection is that unlocking works fine regardless of order, it's only the re locking of the doors that is having the issue. I will double check the locking also.

I can't check it now, because I'm not home and I'm not driving it because at 10k miles it also has a transmission leak :mad:
re read your post and I guess I read it incorrectly the first time. I was able to lock/unlock with the remote and then relock with the touch pad. Not sure why that isn't working for you since it apparently works in other situations.

Peter
 






Mine doesn't the same thing. Sometimes takes 5 times to get it to lock. The little red light lights up when I hold 7/8 and 9/0. Have not been able to figure out a pattern to it.
 






Take it to the dealer. They can connect to the computer and check each button input individually. It only takes one button being messed up to cause the frustration you describe.
 






Very Frustrated

I have a 2012 with 40k miles on it and since day 1 the keypad never worked perfectly but i never expected it to work perfectly because i was never fan of the interface/implementation. Locking the car using 7/8 and 9/0 worked about 60% of the time. When unable to lock the door I found opening and closing the door usually helped. The real issue was unlocking using the keypad. Once the cold weather settled in this year unlocking because almost impossible. The turning point to anger came when my two kids were in the Ex, it somehow locked itself, and i couldn’t use the keypad to unlock the doors. After multiple tries and getting "locked" out of the keypad my daughter was able to free herself from her car seat and she unlocked the doors.

My wife went to my dealer and they told her it would cost $500 to replace it. I’m not sure if $500 was for just the part or parts and labor. Either way, its seems ridiculous.

I really don’t think i should have to pay for a part that clearly hasn’t been functioning reliable since day 1. I know its technically out of warranty but it’s not like there's normal "wear and tear" on it. It’s a sealed compoenet not subject to the outdoor elements. It should just work. There's clearly a design/circuitry/software problem.

Anyone besides jzcop have this replaced out of warranty?
 






I have a 2012 with 40k miles on it and since day 1 the keypad never worked perfectly but i never expected it to work perfectly because i was never fan of the interface/implementation. Locking the car using 7/8 and 9/0 worked about 60% of the time. When unable to lock the door I found opening and closing the door usually helped. The real issue was unlocking using the keypad. Once the cold weather settled in this year unlocking because almost impossible. The turning point to anger came when my two kids were in the Ex, it somehow locked itself, and i couldn’t use the keypad to unlock the doors. After multiple tries and getting "locked" out of the keypad my daughter was able to free herself from her car seat and she unlocked the doors.

My wife went to my dealer and they told her it would cost $500 to replace it. I’m not sure if $500 was for just the part or parts and labor. Either way, its seems ridiculous.

I really don’t think i should have to pay for a part that clearly hasn’t been functioning reliable since day 1. I know its technically out of warranty but it’s not like there's normal "wear and tear" on it. It’s a sealed compoenet not subject to the outdoor elements. It should just work. There's clearly a design/circuitry/software problem.

Anyone besides jzcop have this replaced out of warranty?
I don't know why you didn't have this addressed while the warranty was still effect. In any case, did you ever mention it to the dealer's service department so that they made a note of it? If so at least it would be in the files. If not, a fix at no cost would be highly unlikely. When the kids were locked in the vehicle did you not have your key fob handy? It is also very unusual for the doors to lock themselves. There hasn't been any such report here that I'm aware of.
Found this on fordparts.com;

20554
Ford Door Pillar Moulding
With Illuminated Door Entry Keypad; LH, Pillar Black
$222.15


Peter
 






I don't know why you didn't have this addressed while the warranty was still effect. In any case, did you ever mention it to the dealer's service department so that they made a note of it? If so at least it would be in the files. If not, a fix at no cost would be highly unlikely. When the kids were locked in the vehicle did you not have your key fob handy? It is also very unusual for the doors to lock themselves. There hasn't been any such report here that I'm aware of.
Found this on fordparts.com;

20554
Ford Door Pillar Moulding
With Illuminated Door Entry Keypad; LH, Pillar Black
$222.15


Peter

My wife had one key fob and the other was left in the Ex. It was unlocked. I went in and because the battery on the fob was weak the Ex didnt recognize the key being in the car so i couldnt start it. I then tried to use the fob to remote start it while i was inside but that didnt work either. I kept clicking "lock" on the fob so i could remote start it. I also kept trying to start it manually via the push to start button. It finally started. I left, closed the door. When i came back out the door was locked. A mystery i know.

The reason i never brought it to the dealer was because i just figured it was a poorly designed component (just like those ridiculous, non illuminated, self activating, third row seat buttons). It was only this winter where it really stopped working. Plus its not like the key pad is dead. It fully illuminates and it still can lock the car. I probably have mentioned it to the dealer but when they've tried to use it most likely worked. I'll ask them if its been documented anywhere.

At this point i'm very frustrated especially since i didnt purchase an extended warranty on the basis i have low miles and nothing really worried me regarding wear and tear. I recently had to replace the backing of one of the third row seats. It somehow cracked in half probably during an inadvertent folding attempt when one of the buttons was bumped by some cargo. Hundreds of dollars after replacing that, this keypad issue is taking me to the boiling point.
 






Is there a write up somewhere on how to replace the door moulding with keyless entry. Just got mine back fro the dealership and they told me the 3-4 key thinks it's the 1-2 key and the 7-8 key isn't working at all. Suggested I replace the pad, but wanted to charge $260 for the part, which I got from another dealership for $170 and just need to replace it.
 






Is there a write up somewhere on how to replace the door moulding with keyless entry. Just got mine back fro the dealership and they told me the 3-4 key thinks it's the 1-2 key and the 7-8 key isn't working at all. Suggested I replace the pad, but wanted to charge $260 for the part, which I got from another dealership for $170 and just need to replace it.
Welcome to the Forum.:wavey:
I'm not currently aware of anyone that has done a DIY replacement of the keyless entry pad.

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum.:wavey:
I'm not currently aware of anyone that has done a DIY replacement of the keyless entry pad.

Peter

Thanks for the welcome! Are there any techs on here that might be able to tell me?
 






Is there a write up somewhere on how to replace the door moulding with keyless entry. Just got mine back fro the dealership and they told me the 3-4 key thinks it's the 1-2 key and the 7-8 key isn't working at all. Suggested I replace the pad, but wanted to charge $260 for the part, which I got from another dealership for $170 and just need to replace it.

Hi drstephennix,
I'm having similar problem with the door keypad on my 2011 Explorer, did you find any instructions on how to replace it?
 






Hi drstephennix,
I'm having similar problem with the door keypad on my 2011 Explorer, did you find any instructions on how to replace it?

No, I didn't, but I did figure it out. You have to take the door panel off from the inside, and disconnect the plug and play for the keypad. If looking in the door panel, it's up and to the left by the door lock mechanism. The actual panel on the outside that contains the keypad has 3m sticky behind it holding it to the door. I had to pull it off and it broke in some places, but finally came off and then pull the plug out through the top of the door. Clean up and residue on the door and install the new panel in reverse order. It has 3m tape on both sides just like the old one. Once you have it plugged in and set in place, test it, and once working good, remove the red tape on the 3m tape and stick in place. It was simply plug/play for mine and my original code worked fine too.
 






Pay the dealer his money. It's not that much to have them do it and you can drink their coffee and look at the new Fords.
 






I work at the Ford plant in Ohio. I have a 2013 ford explorer that is out of warranty. I have recently for the first time tried to use my keyless pad entry, and I've had no sucess. I have the original code but it doesn't work. I've tried holding the 7-8 & 9-0 buttons, but there is no response. Can someone please help me?
 



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I work at the Ford plant in Ohio. I have a 2013 ford explorer that is out of warranty. I have recently for the first time tried to use my keyless pad entry, and I've had no sucess. I have the original code but it doesn't work. I've tried holding the 7-8 & 9-0 buttons, but there is no response. Can someone please help me?
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Does the keypad light up when you swipe it? It would also be helpful if you added the 'trim' level (Base, XLT, etc.) to your profile so it appears in the margin. If it doesn't light up check fuse 18 in the cabin fuse box. If that is bad then you should also have other indications, again, depending on which trim you have because it also controls 3rd row power seats enable and push button ignition run indicator.
It could also be a bad touch pad. A few members have had to replace theirs.

Peter
 






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