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Tuning my 347 with rear mount turbo

Good deal, enjoy that fun truck and have a good time at the event. I hope they have some cool fireworks too, that's always a blast.
 



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That sounds like a good time. I have always wondered what it would be like to sleep in the back of one of my Explorers.
One day I took a nap at the track before they let us run that day.
4 hour ride, definitely a good test of reliability. I may be doing some long drives at the end of this year, haven't figured out what truck I want to use yet.
 






So, my cam position error codes started coming back. So, Im thinking....Tune? Wiring? Bad sensor? Bad Shaft? Now what?

Then I started thinking. Last year when this happened it was hot and humid also.

I say to my self, self....Whats happening to the voltage with the air conditioning on with cooling fan and cabin fan obviously blowing full, intercooler pump on, oil return pump merrily running away? All that was missing was the headlights.

Yup, right at 12v. So, I found idle speed adder for air conditioning on for both in neutral and drive. Added 100rpm to each, and I'm good to go.

A good fix would be to find an alternator that put out more juice at low rpm's, but it seems the high output alternators tend to actually put out less voltage at low rpm's than the stockers and also don't seem to last very long.

I also need to get my intercooler pump on a pulse width modulator so that there is a bit less load on the electrical system when I'm stuck in traffic.
 






welcome to my world. lol. it almost seems your having the same problem i am, but mine is more random. i have tossed in the towel and i am going to have a buddy (not joe) take a look for me hopefully tomorrow. if he (we) find something i will let you know.
 






So, my cam position error codes started coming back. So, Im thinking....Tune? Wiring? Bad sensor? Bad Shaft? Now what?

Then I started thinking. Last year when this happened it was hot and humid also.

I say to my self, self....Whats happening to the voltage with the air conditioning on with cooling fan and cabin fan obviously blowing full, intercooler pump on, oil return pump merrily running away? All that was missing was the headlights.

Yup, right at 12v. So, I found idle speed adder for air conditioning on for both in neutral and drive. Added 100rpm to each, and I'm good to go.

A good fix would be to find an alternator that put out more juice at low rpm's, but it seems the high output alternators tend to actually put out less voltage at low rpm's than the stockers and also don't seem to last very long.

I also need to get my intercooler pump on a pulse width modulator so that there is a bit less load on the electrical system when I'm stuck in traffic.
You have a stock puller or overdrive on the alt?
 






Completely stock pulley system
 






Completely stock pulley system
Considered a overdrive for the alternator? ? Help get those volts up at idle without really effecting anything else,hell same belt probably will still work.lol

I have found same with higher alt tho,volts at lower rpms suffer,every company ive seen includes or recommend a Overdrive with use of their alternator
 






Yea, that's a great option. I'll see what I can find out on a slightly smaller pulley.
 






If you go to a slightly smaller alternator pulley and find the belt is too loose you could swap the idler pulley from 90mm to 100mm?
But Like JD said, the belt may still fit.

Is that oil pump compatible with pulse width modulation?
Just asking because some fuel pumps are and some are not.
 






The oil pump I won't touch. Oil backing up is a bad thing lol.

I'm pretty sure the Bosch inter-cooler pump is compatible though. Currently, this is running full speed all the time.
 






turdle and i were talking last week about alternators and what, and reminded me to call Carolina quality alternators and starters. i told them i have a 4G. they said no dice. they cant or wont make a higher amp alt for that style.
 












ok. I have read of people using a 3g alternator with a wiring adapter. I don't see how this is possible as I also read that the mounting points are different.

Maybe a 3g is interchangeable with a 4g in the mustang world since they use a different case for mounting?
 






turdle and i were talking last week about alternators and what, and reminded me to call Carolina quality alternators and starters. i told them i have a 4G. they said no dice. they cant or wont make a higher amp alt for that style.

I wont trust anyone but my local shop to build alternators..ive bought some online and took it there to be rebuilt and it was in the small 70amp case and no way would the coils/coiling fit in it to make the advertised 200amps..got a junk yard 97 140 amp case and he made me a 220amp outa it..tested it on a machine right in front of me..charged i think a dollar a amp to build it...best alternator ive ever had and i draw some juice from it,probably 10 years old now with no issues. .

Check your local shops first,if not i can have one built,tested and shipped to you that i guarantee the amps and still be cheaper than them high dollar ones online..

also don, measure the pulley and let me know. i have a few kicking around.

Didnt he have one on the old ohv that will fit??

Think i have a spare one if the ohv do fit but they are on ebay for less than $30

ok. I have read of people using a 3g alternator with a wiring adapter. I don't see how this is possible as I also read that the mounting points are different.

Maybe a 3g is interchangeable with a 4g in the mustang world since they use a different case for mounting?

""Same reply as to Tim's quote ""
 


















The 3G alternators are more supported by the aftermarket. There are more non stock components for the 3G. My shop here said they love to work with the 3G, but hate the 4G. That was several years ago, maybe something is different now. The shop said that the 4G was great for it's OEM intended uses, great current for idle etc, but that not much can be done to improve that.

I'm okay with the typical 4G power levels, near 100amps limit at idle, and 150-200amps max. But that idle current varies given different rpms you run, so that's the place to dig into if there are more loads running. Work on what current an alternator can make at 700rpm to 1k etc.
 












Lol
Tranny Tim

JD, I just might take you up on your offer.
 



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