T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

'merica

 

[Caejxr]

Thank you @boominXplorer. That information will change my thought process for a solution then.

I'm running into the upper limits of what I see as being comfortable or a safe margin of error with the cooling system now that I fixed the AC. The extra heat the AC adds in normal driving in these low 100 temps puts me around 210 to 220 for ect. I haven't checked it on a data log yet but I suspect it's higher than the gauge I have shows me it is. Prior to the AC fix I was running around 190 to 200 for ect. It's not even the hot part of the summer yet.

On another note, my camshaft finally shipped. The driving force for the engine build will soon glare at me from a shelf every day until all the parts and heads are built/staged and ready to be installed.

 

[Caejxr]

Well I found a 422 cam on my door step today so that was a pretty awesome thing to come home to. I ordered a bunch of valve retainers last night and a hand full of brass guides the same size as the OEM steel ones (inner diameter within .007" which I am ok with since it would be simple to bore it out just a bit if required) they were listed as for a 64 Chevy c10 3.8 L6 and just so happened to come up when I searched the dimensions.

SmithBrothers got back to me today that a set of (12) 5.550" length non-hardened 5/16x.049 rods with 3/16 ball ends would run 86$ and some change before shipping.

The paperwork in the box for the cam stated along with the compcam springs their lifters need to be used as well in order to have the warranty. Unless I missed this in reading I've been doing I hadn't expected to read that and am wondering what lifters everyone is running with their successful installs?

 

[malohnes]

Hey, may I ask why non hardened push rods?

 

[Caejxr]

Hey, may I ask why non hardened push rods?

Their literature said their nonhardened rods are good for up to 400lb springs. The 988 are around 230. Hardened go up to 700lb springs.

 

[malohnes]

Hmmm, good to know. I understood the stock ones were soft leading to the valvetrain clatter we experience.

 

[Caejxr]

I imagine hardened rods would chew up new stock rockers faster. Looking around I see a lot of worn rockers and collapsed lifters leading to clatter. Hardened everything would be good for longevity as added "insurance ". I just wouldn't go hardened on one thing and not on another.

Sent comp cam an email trying to verify if the listed roller lifters are the same height as stock since that's not listed and retailers list them as being for the 4.6l.

 

[malohnes]

You know, that is a good point.

I think there is a fellow in Tacoma that flame hardens stock ones. That might be an option to pursue. Do a search for death rattle, you should find the thread on it. I'm stuck with super slow wifi on my smart phone otherwise I'd find it for you.

IIRC,on the Need for Speed forum there is a thread JD is in that spoke about those rockers...

 

[malohnes]

Oh, you asked about pics of my W/M system. I don't have pic's but its a stage 2 Nitrous Express system for NA. I have a 7 gallon tank in the cargo area and a twin nozzle mod spraying directly into the plenum between the vaccum tree and the IAC.I tried the stock 225 nozzle but it was WAY too big, i'm using the smallest 060 nozzle and its perfect for NA. I can go easy 1000 miles between tank fill-ups. I use 100% methyl hydroxide, (fuel line antifreeze) and water, mixed 50/50.

 

[Caejxr]

So, my thoughts in regard to the pushrods, lifters, and the cam are as follows:

If I take the difference in the seat height of the lifters into account it should give me the pushrod length I can use with the compcam roller lifter v. the OEM roller lifter.

Fact. Comp cams requires their lifters are used to keep their warranty on the cam.
Fact. All comp cams available lifters for the 4.0l v6 explorer are not the OEM height and only 1 is a hyd roller type.

So, after sending many emails and receiving few replies some great folks were able to get me the figures for the seat heights of the OEM and Compcams lifters from the manufacturer technical drawings.

The stock lifters have a seat height of 1.699".
The Comp Cam hydraulic roller lifter (851-12) is at 2.60" seat height.
Comp cam's lifter is .901" taller
Both share the same .874" diameter.

If the acceptable push rod length with the 422 cam and the OEM roller lifter is 5.550"

Using Compcams hyd roller lifter should require a shorter pushrod at 4.649"


I guess the only concern I have for consideration if anyone has the answer is the lifter bore. Will it be tall enough for the extra length of the lifter?

 

[Caejxr]

Back from vacation. Decided I'll be going with an OEM design roller lifter to sick with the tried and true method here.

 

[malohnes]

I think thats a wise decision. OEM style lifter sounds just fine to me. However, I would would think that if there was an issue with the fitment of the Comp Cams lifter, they would mention it. Like, their 422 cams require the 988 springs... That said, custom push rods are not a high dollar item in the bigger picture. You might PM JD4242 for more info on his set up for reference.

 

[Caejxr]

Ordering the heads next. A decent set of lifters is going to run me nearly the same or more than the bare heads. That's a hard pill to swallow.

 

[jd4242]

You can use stock retainers and locks with the 988s..install height of 1.6 so the head spring seat AND the valve seal stem needs to be milled..stock lifters are fine and NO a taller lifter would not work,it would come out the bore to far and hit the head..the head prevents you from removing the lifters fyi..also i believe the 4.6 has oil holes for the pushrods,4.0 does not

You can keep you stock lifters just clean them and check for broken springs..here is a video

 

[jd4242]

Also i dont remember if you have arp head studs but if you dont order 2 kits for the pinto,will be cheaper..same studs,washers and nuts as the 4.0 kit but much cheaper..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252046411997?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Also again cant stress this one,get the super duty BLUE felpro head gaskets ..

 

[Caejxr]

@jd4242, as always your experienced advice is appreciated.

I was actually just shopping the Internet for a set of the HD felpros. I took a break on parts ordering for the last 2 months or so to finish paying for the wedding. Now that's done I've got some spending money back and I'll definitely get back to accumulating what I need to finish the project.

I rotated the intercooler so it sits flush with the front cross members to get the airflow it needs. The only problem is its too small for the amount of heat coming off the road in the 110 degree Temps. Im going to suck it up for now since it's just right for everything cooler which is where that truck will spend more of its lifetime. Timing in the tune pulls out so it doesn't detonate with how hot the intake air is but it's enough to make it run like NA when it does.

 

[Caejxr]

I imagine hardened rods would chew up new stock rockers faster. Looking around I see a lot of worn rockers and collapsed lifters leading to clatter. Hardened everything would be good for longevity as added "insurance ". I just wouldn't go hardened on one thing and not on another.

Sent comp cam an email trying to verify if the listed roller lifters are the same height as stock since that's not listed and retailers list them as being for the 4.6l.

So after talking to Smithbrothers on the phone placing an order they recommend hardened rods despite the ratings of the nonhardened rods due to the increased ramp up of the new cam. I went with their advice cost came to about 106. Called SI and their sending the stainless valves today so I should have them tomorrow.

Still need bare heads, hardened rockers, studs, spring seats, hardened valve seats and maybe lifters

 

[jd4242]

So after talking to Smithbrothers on the phone placing an order they recommend hardened rods despite the ratings of the nonhardened rods due to the increased ramp up of the new cam. I went with their advice cost came to about 106. Called SI and their sending the stainless valves today so I should have them tomorrow.

Still need bare heads, hardened rockers, studs, spring seats, hardened valve seats and maybe lifters

They should have known exactly what to give you if you told them 422 or 410 cam and 4.0

You wont find hardened rockers and DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT go with delta cam rockers..sealed power or mellings

You dont need spring seats..you need to mill the spring seats and valve seal stem..

You also dont need hardened valve seats just exhaust seats and honestly if your not running a ton of boost you wont need them..my current motor is 11:1 with 10 lbs and nitrous and i dont have them

You will need the broonze guides for all valves tho..

 

[Caejxr]

I've got bronze guides and a few extra from Mahle already, they'll probably have to be cut down in length but otherwise their Oem size.

No way I'll be touching delta rockers I've read way too much bad news on them not to mention the ones you had grenade on you @jd4242.

Also have the HD felpro headgasket kit on the way a mechanical boost contoller the valves and rods I mentioned earlier and the 988 springs. Trying to get the bare heads ordered but their web order is down the last few days or something so I'm going to try and call during business hours. Still some way to go and lots of parts to get gathered up until I'll have everything on hand but once I do I'll take the heads into the machine shop in town get that done and start the build.

 

[Caejxr]

Anyone else notice that UPS is ALWAYS forgetting packages at their facilities that are supposed to be delivered to them?? I really wish they'd quit playing soccer with my packages.

On a serious note, I swear it's like every 4th package,no joke. I'm beginning to loose confidence in their services with how much I use them.

 

[Caejxr]

can use stock retainers and locks with the 988s..install height of 1.6 so the head spring seat AND the valve seal stem needs to be milled..stock lifters are fine and NO a taller lifter would not work,it would come out the bore to far and hit the head..the head prevents you from removing the lifters fyi..

@jd4242, do you mind elaborating on the "valve seal stem needs to be milled" That one is throwing me off a bit. Did you mean the valve guide?