T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

'merica

 

[jd4242]

@jd4242, do you mind elaborating on the "valve seal stem needs to be milled" That one is throwing me off a bit. Did you mean the valve guide?

Well the guides will need to be trimmed also when he installs them,but there is a nipple/stem the seals fit over ...wish i had a picture. .the seal fits over the guides and nipple then butts up basically to a "seat""..that seat needs to be milled down some as well as the tip..if you just mill the ""tip"" of that nipple the seal has very little room to fit on it and can/will pop off..you mill the seal seat also so the seal fits down farther..the retainer will hit the tip i guarantee it,ive had it happen even though by measurement spec it shouldn't. .

First set we did we didnt mill that and this happened.

 

[Caejxr]

That's what I thought you were talking about but I wasn't certain, thank you. I'm really hoping that learning from your experience makes this go very smooth.

 

[jd4242]

That's what I thought you were talking about but I wasn't certain, thank you. I'm really hoping that learning from your experience makes this go very smooth.

Yea sorry im not the best explainer..im so use to using words like thing maboob and dirty words..lol hard to explain without pictures for to someone who personally hasn't seen it yet..

But yea ive done about everything to the ohv and made plenty of mistakes. I credit this forum and its users for all my knowledge. .

O ps may want to look into a underdrive pulley also down the road or if founds allow it.its not cheap but definitely helps with mpg and some power..it uses the same crank pulley as the 4.0 sohc mustang use fyi,also need a over drive for alternator. Everything else will be fine

 

[Caejxr]

Been kicking the pully idea around for some time and I may just add it to the list since so much is coming out/off for the build anyway.

@jd4242 You wouldn't by chance have the depth they machined the head down for the valve seals to set proper do you.?

I'm looking into SI for custom guides that measure to OEM specs they have some that are pretty close(ID at .0003 larger) but too fat at .5023 v .4800.
Why? Well because I measured the ones I have on hand and compared them to the valves and their actually .50 wide v.480 so nearly .02 too fat which would require more machining of the head to fit. Worse, the inner diameter is too loose at nearly the same .02 over which is significant and flat out just won't work with the valves. That much space will wreck the valves and the head. I'll just sell um on ebay or something since they fit c10 pickups among other things and who knows where the receipt got to. I should have taken more time to check the actual product catalog from the manufacturer... but it's like 10 or 15 bucks I'll make it back later or something.

 

[jd4242]

Been kicking the pully idea around for some time and I may just add it to the list since so much is coming out/off for the build anyway.

@jd4242 You wouldn't by chance have the depth they machined the head down for the valve seals to set proper do you.?

I'm looking into SI for custom guides that measure to OEM specs they have some that are pretty close(ID at .0003 larger) but too fat at .5023 v .4800.
Why? Well because I measured the ones I have on hand and compared them to the valves and their actually .50 wide v.480 so nearly .02 too fat which would require more machining of the head to fit. Worse, the inner diameter is too loose at nearly the same .02 over which is significant and flat out just won't work with the valves. That much space will wreck the valves and the head. I'll just sell um on ebay or something since they fit c10 pickups among other things and who knows where the receipt got to. I should have taken more time to check the actual product catalog from the manufacturer... but it's like 10 or 15 bucks I'll make it back later or something.

Its not much but i do not off hand.like i said by spec it shouldn't need to be trimmed but definitely have him take some off..

The guides are going to be custom, cant remember which ones my guy starts with,i can ask him today when i drop these 4.6 dohc heads off

 

[Caejxr]

Well I just had one of the worst customer service experiences I can recall ever having while on the phone with SI Valves attempting to place an order. I'm surprised because last time they were fine.

First I asked if they would do a custom order for bronze valve guides and was told "we don't do that"
I started to say "well can I order.."
Only getting to "well ca" before he blurts over me "ok, thanks" and hung up.

RUDE.

I was going to order a set for another vehicle listed in their catalog. But hey, at least I can say I won't ever use them again due to the sour taste I now have in my mouth.

 

[jd4242]

Well I just had one of the worst customer service experiences I can recall ever having while on the phone with SI Valves attempting to place an order.

First I asked if they would do a custom order for bronze valve guides and was told "we don't do that"
I started to say "well can I order.."
Only getting to "well ca" before he blurts over me "ok, thanks" and hung up.

RUDE.

I was going to order a set for another vehicle listed in their catalog, mind you their catalog also says they do custom guides. But hey, at least I can say I won't ever use them again nor will I recommend them to anyone due to the sour taste I now have in my mouth.

O wow..ive had very good experiences with them.they dont even list the ohv anymore but have always been willing to make them for customers that call up.

Guess we all have bad days but they/he should always conduct themselves in a professional business manor..its a shame they are only ones that make stock replacements..

Hey you can always bite the bullet and order a set of 1.8 and 1.5 from manley for $450ish,if your gonna drop big money thats where i would do it.big gains there and especially if forced induction. Thats the BIGGEST that will fit and require new larger hardened exhaust seats

 

[Caejxr]

You know, I'll edit the post and maybe remove it if SI sincerely apologizes since I don't really like calling out a company that employs multiple other people due to 1 employee who can't conduct themselves. Having worked in customer service oriented positions since college to include currently in my present position...your statement on professionalism @jd4242 is spot on. I just don't want anyone else to be as surprised as me if they get bad service. And I say surprised honestly as the last time I dealt with them was a very fast turn around on shipping and seemingly courteous dealings over the phone

 

[malohnes]

Getting anywhere on your project? I found a turbo I wantt o buy but trying to not get impatient so I can finish my tranny.

 

[Caejxr]

Well, I've got bare heads from promaxx their thicker and come with seats pressed in and I can't figure out if the cast guides are integral or not right yet. Recieved a gasket kit, rods, valves, Springs and I've had the cam... I want to be able to build the heads off the truck while still being able to use it so I still need to get retainers and rocker arm assemblies. I've read been reading interesting things on bronze guides in cast heads conflicting due to the different heat transfer rates and thus expansion rates and that chroming the valve stems would work but only if they were heat treated after to keep the valve heads from falling off.. there's a lot of conflicting information out there in regard to valves, guides and heads and theid materials...except that ss and cast don't mix well. So I'll have to refer to @jd4242 and how well his heads are holding up with bronze guides since he's a wealth of experience here. What I'm thinking right now is waiting for a few months when I go back home to get my heads to a machinist to fit the springs, do the valveguides, etc and I'll put the rockers on after. My best friend is a mechanic and he only takes his heads to one shop that he trusts and says they do some pretty off the wall work.

 

[Caejxr]

I did just install a manual boost T and turned it up a lb.... so awesome what only 1lb does. The 7lb waste gate spring only lets the boost hit about 6 lb up here in the high desert while down closer to sea level it gets closer to 7lb likely due to air density. Once everything is installed I'm thinking I'm just going to set it around 10-12 lb so there is some wiggle room with the gaskets limit and that should be plenty...at least until the itch comes back and I do the lowers and copper gaskets. It's all time and money to get it done at this point.

 

[jd4242]

Well, I've got bare heads from promaxx their thicker and come with seats pressed in and I can't figure out if the cast guides are integral or not right yet. Recieved a gasket kit, rods, valves, Springs and I've had the cam... I want to be able to build the heads off the truck while still being able to use it so I still need to get retainers and rocker arm assemblies. I've read been reading interesting things on bronze guides in cast heads conflicting due to the different heat transfer rates and thus expansion rates and that chroming the valve stems would work but only if they were heat treated after to keep the valve heads from falling off.. there's a lot of conflicting information out there in regard to valves, guides and heads and theid materials...except that ss and cast don't mix well. So I'll have to refer to @jd4242 and how well his heads are holding up with bronze guides since he's a wealth of experience here. What I'm thinking right now is waiting for a few months when I go back home to get my heads to a machinist to fit the springs, do the valveguides, etc and I'll put the rockers on after. My best friend is a mechanic and he only takes his heads to one shop that he trusts and says they do some pretty off the wall work.

The guides are cast in the heads.yea we made the mistake of not putting broonze guides in my very first motor we did that had SS valves..i swore we did,he swore he did but about 6 months later i had issues and head came back off.the valves were so loose that they had basically destroyed the seats and valves..

Long story short we have made sure to do guides in every head ive built,mine being the longest and ive had them off a couple years ago when i blew the stock gaskets off..we went over the whole head and just decked it and threw it back on.everything looked good including the guides, motor is still currently in my ranger.also my buddies heads looked great after we pulled them not long ago and he had serious milage on his as well..

So cant say ive had any issues with broonze guides in cast heads.

Are you looking for all new rockers and shaft assembly? ? You know you cant install thise till the pushrods are in,basically last thing before valve covers and turning key on..there was a vendor on here that sold them as a whole unit but your save yourself a butt load of money getting melling rockers or sealed power and just replacimg them on the shaft you have,takes maybe 5 mins.

 

[Caejxr]

I'll be honest I did not think about the rockers having to go on after the pushrods are in but it makes sense. And definately in regard to saving money provided my rocker shafts are still in good shape.

 

[jd4242]

I'll be honest I did not think about the rockers having to go on after the pushrods are in but it makes sense. And definately in regard to saving money provided my rocker shafts are still in good shape.

Yep they really are about the last thing besides upper manifold and covers.

Your shaft will be fine,never seen any really with any issues. .i may have a set or two of just the shafts laying around somewhere. Had a delta set they told me to keep and a spare set plus the set thats about to come off..lol

 

[Caejxr]

Yeah, you know, I'll bet the delta stuff makes good paperweights

 

[jd4242]

Yeah, you know, I'll bet the delta stuff makes good paperweights

I keep them around to show people how much of trash they are and the exploded rocker...lol

 

[Caejxr]

Got studs, melting rocker arms and spring retainers on the way so that's the last of it before dropping off parts for the machine shop and the tear down/install. I went with the pinto kits on the arp studs as recommended since it comes out to almost 100$ cheaper for everything needed and then some.

 

[jd4242]

Got studs, melting rocker arms and spring retainers on the way so that's the last of it before dropping off parts for the machine shop and the tear down/install. I went with the pinto kits on the arp studs as recommended since it comes out to almost 100$ cheaper for everything needed and then some.

Good deal.i almost have enough left over bolts to make a full kit,i should buy your spares and sell a complete kit to someone that needs it..lol

You get valve locks also?think rock auto carries them..

You any good at porting?? I can show you some pictures of easy porting and polish that will help drastically. .the humps in the exhaust ports can be taken out and the ports can be enlarged alot depending on what year heads you got? Also a good polish on the combustion chamber will help alot with detonation especially with your turbo.i focus on the CC and exhaust ports,thats where your gain the most,the intake is pretty good considering your forcing air in that way,the exhaust needs help getting that air out..

Also the lower manifold can be ported ALOT

 

[Caejxr]

Good deal.i almost have enough left over bolts to make a full kit,i should buy your spares and sell a complete kit to someone that needs it..lol

You get valve locks also?think rock auto carries them..

You any good at porting?? I can show you some pictures of easy porting and polish that will help drastically. .the humps in the exhaust ports can be taken out and the ports can be enlarged alot depending on what year heads you got? Also a good polish on the combustion chamber will help alot with detonation especially with your turbo.i focus on the CC and exhaust ports,thats where your gain the most,the intake is pretty good considering your forcing air in that way,the exhaust needs help getting that air out..

Also the lower manifold can be ported ALOT

I'll take a look. I've got a Dremel I used to very slightly port and then Polish my wifes 89 yj intake manifold. The heads are the ProMaxx 98tm ones. There's space to remove and clean up some material. I do have the locks from rock auto. Temporarily cleaned them out a few weeks back.

 

[jd4242]

I'll take a look. I've got a Dremel I used to very slightly port and then Polish my wifes 89 yj intake manifold. The heads are the ProMaxx 98tm ones. There's space to remove and clean up some material. I do have the locks from rock auto. Temporarily cleaned them out a few weeks back.

Yea 98tm have the smaller ports..dremel probably wont cut it,your need a burr bit