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T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

:usa: 'merica
 



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Yeah, but it's corded so a burr bit in it if i can find one would probably be ok. If not I've got other tools that can take care of it. The last of the parts are set to show up this week. But I may have cracked the tank on my radiator a few inches from the top..either that or the cap/overflow hose is leaking or both I haven't quite been able to figure it out...you'd think it obvious which but it's not quite yet.
 



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Ive used a Dremel to port my heads. A air powered tool is much better but I got it done with carbide burrs. What it lacks in power it makes up for in rpm's. The biggest issue is reach into the ports.

Leaks often are exactly like that, obvious but not!

Any news with SI?
 






Ive used a Dremel to port my heads. A air powered tool is much better but I got it done with carbide burrs. What it lacks in power it makes up for in rpm's. The biggest issue is reach into the ports.

Leaks often are exactly like that, obvious but not!

Any news with SI?

Probably just going to go with a universal aluminum radiator and universal mounts. I'd rather replace it than risk worse. As far as SI goes, no.
 






Pretty sure Ive got pretty much everything I need now. But I think I still need a set of cam bearings. I don't want to put old ones on the new cam. The machine work probably is going to wait for a while since there's a good shop back home I want to use. That will be the last piece before the last cleaning, final coats of paint and disassembly/install. Guesstimate is next summer due to time available or lack of rather.
 






Glad things are coming together and bummed for you it'll take a longer to complete...youre making great progress here. Keep at it!!
 






Yeah I m making progress steadily. Minor setbacks. confirmed today when I drove it to work the radiators Cracked. About 2 min after I parked coolant started dumping out of the driver side tank on the front half way down. I was hoping to wait until it's time for the build to replace it but I want to use it until then so it's getting replaced with an OEM unit this next week. Has anyone ever plumbed coolant through the Trans cooler portion on the 2 core unit? I'm going to see what I can find and see if I can make it happen since otherwise it will go unused with the manual transmission.​
 






Yeah I m making progress steadily. Minor setbacks. confirmed today when I drove it to work the radiators Cracked. About 2 min after I parked coolant started dumping out of the driver side tank on the front half way down. I was hoping to wait until it's time for the build to replace it but I want to use it until then so it's getting replaced with an OEM unit this next week. Has anyone ever plumbed coolant through the Trans cooler portion on the 2 core unit? I'm going to see what I can find and see if I can make it happen since otherwise it will go unused with the manual transmission.​
I dont think it would help any..if i recall the trans line just loops around inside the driverside tank
 






Not much can be done for a leaky radiator by home mechanics and don't use Stop Leak!

There are a few good radiator shops here and there that can make a radiator for not much coin. You should shop around...
A stock radiator isn't bad, mine has held up better than the $200 aluminum one I got on Ebay several years back.
 






I dont think it would help any..if i recall the trans line just loops around inside the driverside tank
If that's the case it definitely wouldn't do anything..how worthless. Explains a lot.

I just picked up an OEM rad at orielly. I'm hoping it makes a big difference. That old one is probably gunked up... not to mention leaking...
 






If that's the case it definitely wouldn't do anything..how worthless. Explains a lot.

I just picked up an OEM rad at orielly. I'm hoping it makes a big difference. That old one is probably gunked up... not to mention leaking...
Im not 100% but pretty sure thats all it does.thats why they put a 2nd one thats separate in front
 






Got the radiators swapped out. Super easy job on the OHV. Remove intake, drain coolant, unhook hoses, unbolt shroud, unbolt radiator, pull straight up and out. Reverse for reinstall...

The 4.5 inch vertical crack in the front of the driver side tank along centerline half way down the tank explains the amount of coolant loss.

Hopefully the current heads will be good to run on until the build. I kept a close eye on the temp running it home and it never exceeded the 200 deg mark since I blasted the heater the whole way.

Ran it to work today with the heater off. It held 190 to 195 no problem we'll see how the trip home goes in the afternoon heat.
 






Results confirmed on the drive home. New rad is holding temps much better. I still get a quick rise/spike in temps under boost but I'm confident if I size up the intercooler it will help since my intake temps are still really high even though my math tells me it's about 80% efficient. I'm probably looking at needing summer/desert and winter/temperate climate sized coolers and swap them seasonally. I'll attempt that before I think about a water spray system..
 






Glad to hear the new rad is working out. Surprised at the size of the crack in your old leaky rad though.

Seems like a lot of extra work to swap intercoolers for seasonal conditions....
 






Just 2 worm screws and 2 bolts to swap them out. It's an option worth exploring to me. A better option really would be finding something in between but I know it won't be sufficient for the Mojave desert heat still. And anything that will meet that need will be too big for the PNW especially during winter. Long term I'm probably better off just finding something slightly larger than my current one since I'll be moving home and staying there eventually.
 






It's just one thing after another right now. The rear main just decided to give up and it's slinging oil all over to include the y pipe. I may as well add the clutch and engine mounts to the list while I'm in there. This is beginning to get out of control.
 






Careful...it might not be the rear main.

It seem's that every leak on our motor's always look like a rear main leak.
I can't say for certain is something is a rear main leak even if I'm looking at it.
Leaks are a *****.
 






Ooh, sorry to hear that. Look for the oil pan gasket as a culprit too.
 






I'm fairly certain of what it is by the spray patterns and where the oil isnt. If it were the heads it would spray more top down than bottom up. And its definitely spraying or slinging bottom up and it's on both left and right.
 






Maybe next week I'll mount a gopro under there and see if I can watch for the source. I just thought of that...Probably could show me pretty clearly.
 



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What are you running for a pvc system? ? Could be a sign of bad rings from too much boost
 






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