T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

'merica

 

[malohnes]

That could be very True... I've had issues with pvc before causing excessive oil leaks.

I'm doing the SOHC oil pan swap and HV pump while I tear into the tranny and I'll know how much my main seal is leaking. Also can see just how bad my pan gaskets are.

 

[jd4242]

That could be very True... I've had issues with pvc before causing excessive oil leaks.

I'm doing the SOHC oil pan swap and HV pump while I tear into the tranny and I'll know how much my main seal is leaking. Also can see just how bad my pan gaskets are.

You know its very hard to get pan off if even possible with motor still in truck?

Make sure you get ALL the bolts for the sohc pan and the oil pump pick up from the sohc..your need a large allen key to adjust the main cap spacers in the pan out before you mount the pan..then adjust the allen screw spacers in against the main caps,the put the 2nd main caps bolts in that hold the pan..

If you dont adjust those allen spacers out before you mount the pan with the ouside pan bolts,it may not mount flush and leak..know people that have done that. .

If you dont understand what im saying i can go back over it once you have the pan in hand....

Get the expensive dtpfe or whatever it is rear seal..only ones ive had luck with..

 

[malohnes]

I'll pull the tranny first, then lift the engine to replace the motor mounts and oil pan. Mucho easier that way

I think I get what you're saying. I'll take pics and maybe start a thread on it. Right now, my pan is on the way and trying to find a better place to order the pump...shipping is eating my budget!

 

[malohnes]

That GoPro idea sounds good.

I couldn't definitively find my leaks running at idle. It was not evident at all until after driving a bit, especially at hi way speeds. I was able to mostly rule out front and rear mains for significant leaks, but they are seeping some.

 

[jd4242]

I'll pull the tranny first, then lift the engine to replace the motor mounts and oil pan. Mucho easier that way

I think I get what you're saying. I'll take pics and maybe start a thread on it. Right now, my pan is on the way and trying to find a better place to order the pump...shipping is eating my budget!

O lol yea sorry @Caejxr i thought you posted those responses..

 

[Caejxr]

Ah no worries.
As far as the PCV goes I have both the fill neck and d side valve cover vented to atmosphere currently. If there is pressure getting in there it definately has an easier way out besides the seals. Video will be captured tomorrow night to reveal the culprit.

 

[Caejxr]

Gopro video didn't show me much except for smoke and that I definately need to replace my engine mounts. I couldn't get it too much closer without having to worry about heat from the pipes.

I just hit everything really heavy with purple power to clean it up some. I know my d side valve cover has started dripping some so I tightened it up too. But like I said with how the oil is on the bottom half of the starter.. the top is still dusty and no oil if it were coming off of the heads or valve cover I'd expect to see drips on top of it not just the bottom half coated. Likewise the side of the block and back of the block is clean with no dampness from oil.

 

[Caejxr]

If anyone feels like seeing/hearing a clip

Although it doesn't look it, that camera is only about 4 inches from the driverside exhaust pipe.

 

[4pointslow]

I like the turbo whine! Sounds smooth.
Must be nice having the front hubs unlocked, my Explorers don't so I get even more crappy fuel mileage.

Maybe you can get an oil pan gasket and rear main seal so when you tear it apart you have both items covered.
Check crankshaft endplay too, just to be safe.

 

[Caejxr]

@4pointslow, I'll add it to the list. I'm going as deep as I am I might as well. I could just delay building further and buy everything for the bottom end and just go for it all at once. But I was trying not to go that far and if I get the pan off its almost like I might as well. Since I'd be 90% of the way there.

I definately notice the difference with the hubs unlocked. It just rolls and steers easier. Although I wish there was a stronger option for the hub locks like for a d30, ttb, or full width. I've got mine safety wired into place via the center cap. Like the mechanics do on airplane parts.

 

[Caejxr]

After cleaning everything up and letting it dry I took a spin around the block. Nothing of substance is coming from the valve cover and the head gaskets are dry. However the very bottom of the engine block where the block off plate pokes out is dripping oil. Pointing fairly solidly toward that rear main.

Will be interesting to get in there and see how it's not coming on the clutch side of the plate.

 

[jd4242]

After cleaning everything up and letting it dry I took a spin around the block. Nothing of substance is coming from the valve cover and the head gaskets are dry. However the very bottom of the engine block where the block off plate pokes out is dripping oil. Pointing fairly solidly toward that rear main.

Will be interesting to get in there and see how it's not coming on the clutch side of the plate.

Hopefully it blocked most of it,think so if your still driving it

 

[Caejxr]

Yeah I stuck my hand up in there through the view window. Just clutch dust.

 

[Caejxr]

So when I did my transmission swap I used ratchet straps and brute strength and took the transmission out. Put it in the garage tonight thinking I'd do the same and I've definately changed my mind. That y-pipe is positioned where I can get it out but I'll need a transmission jack for sure. I'm going to to need the ability to roll it back while it's perfectly level to clear the pipes. Not to mention if I'm going to pull the pan or anything the easiest way is going to be pulling the engine. Building old cars always comes with extra headaches a new one wouldn't though.

 

[malohnes]

Ughhh! I hate when a simple job ain't so simple...

Ha! I'm not so sure a new car is better wrenching on...

 

[Caejxr]

I guess I meant in the sense of old things wearing out.

 

[malohnes]

True, I hear ya, but at least with our old trucks, we can work on them. These newer trucks are more complicated, needing more time and energy to r/r things. A plug job on our trucks is 30 minutes tops, on my girlfriends f150, for example, it's 2 hours or more.

At least it's not just your daily driver. It's the pits when those break down.

Your rear main seal shouldn't be too hard to do, outside dropping the tranny mess.

 

[Caejxr]

I remember when it was my dd. Took a lot of hard work and late nights to keep that thing going sometimes when I really needed it.

 

[Caejxr]

Should be finished getting the trans remounted tonight. Right now it's like 90 percent of the way there. I'm just fighting it to line up the bolt holes just right. Quite a pain with all the fluid in and the tcase still attached.

 

[Caejxr]

All back together, new seal new clutch. It was definately leaking and that is now taken care of the back of the driverside head is now very visibly leaking though now that it's cleaned up. That's just gonna have to wait until in ready to do the build.

On the other hand I just fabled up a 1/4 inch aluminum skid. For the front cross members and it comes up 3/4 of the way to the frame at about 45deg. to protect the intercooler too since it's in front of the front beam. I'm going to bend up some braces from the scrap to bolt to where the stock sway bar bolted to. Cost me less than 40 bucks for the plate.

I'll be cutting some holes into the front part and ducting them to the intercooler to increase the airflow at the same time.