What did you do this weekend? Participation required

[gtyates]

Thanks koda, very cool of you. After more thought, I just can't see paying almost $100 for four strikers, when all I need are 5 cent plastic bushings. As mentioned, my metal bushings "seem" to be working very well two weeks after I installed them. Problem is I'm thinking I saved that money by making my own, so I'm browsing the net searching for a $100 holiday gift for my Trac. LOL

Hawaii, the listing I sent you is priced for a pack of 2. So $44 is for 4 strikers.. I thought it was a great deal and the repair is very simple! And definitely worth it!

 

[swshawaii]

^ Thanks for the heads up gtyates. I'm usually careful reading fine print and descriptions, but COMPLETELY missed both.

(2) Door Latch Striker Locks For Any Door

Genuine Ford Part Number: 6W1Z-5422008-A (x2)

 

[N2FORD]

My son's ST stock wheel, I did the palsti dip spray job on them. I took them off so I could lay them down. Did the center caps seperate and taped the Ford emblem off. We like the look on his white truck. Hope it holds up.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Excellent. Love the finish, almost looks "satin". Seriously considering completely stripping my bubbling teardrops and painting them. If I could get a result like yours with clear coat I'd do it in a heartbeat. Called a friend who powdercoats rims and explained what I wanted. This "friend" quoted me $300 for EACH wheel including stripping. Correct me if I'm wrong, but $1200 can buy some really nice rims. Nice job N2FORD.

 

[N2FORD]

I have had a set of wheels stripped and powdercoated for $300. $1200 is crazy and yes you could buy a nice set of wheels with tires for $1200 at least around here, might be higher in paradise.

 

[obie]

Finally got around to installing the Dixon Bros Heavy Duty Steering Kit and new Moog outers when both sides started failing. Still need to figure out how the hell to make a custom bellow since the stock ones don't fit around the bolt holding the clevis to the eyelet. Might need to get different spacers because there is some play between them and the bolt, enough to move the tire without moving the piston while it's in the air.

Was finally able to get an alignment done too. Kinda too late to keep my tires from wearing on the insides because of my front left camber being so badly off, but money was very tight for too long. So those tires are going to need replacement come spring.

Also got my bedcap installed for the winter, and did the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. Last weekend was front hubs and fluid changes/top ups. Hoping to be able to save up enough for plugs, wires, and coil before the first snow hits.

Still trying to diagnose a vibration issue that's not consistent and not making any sense. Really wish I had a lift. I don't like running 4WD tests on jackstands. Too risky.

 

[Paul Fithian]

Katzkin leather installed with heaters for the front seats.

 

[obie]

Daaaang Paul, those are gorgeous! Hows the butt feel on em?

 

[Jermsy]

This weekend I took care of some stuff on my truck that's been bothering me for a while. The front dome lights weren't working because the leads where the bulbs were supposed to make contact had completely disintegrated so I wired in some LEDs - they're awesome. I'm going to do the same thing to the rear dome light. I also added a 12v DC plug to the center console - pretty happy with it.

 

[gtyates]

Not a big project, but I replaced the missing inner front fender splash shield on the passenger side and am replacing the small useless ones on the driver's side with a full-size shield. I am amazed at how much road noise has gone away after replacing the missing passenger side one.

 

[swshawaii]

I am amazed at how much road noise has gone away after replacing the missing passenger side one.

Really? Surprised no mention of them reducing road noise in the MyST project linked below. I'll probably give them a try since they're only around $30 pair. I was ready to do an expensive sound deadening treatment in the doors but am not sure if I've pinpointed the area. Tires are proven quiet Michelin Latitude Tours at 35 PSI. For all I know it may be wind noise from the mirrors because my door seals are perfect. Did you use the OEM fender liners or aftermarket like RA sells?

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?VIEW=174&WRENCHES=1&PageHeader=

 

[gtyates]

Really? Surprised no mention of them reducing road noise in the MyST project linked below. I'll probably give them a try since they're only around $30 pair. I was ready to do an expensive sound deadening treatment in the doors but am not sure if I've pinpointed the area. Tires are proven quiet Michelin Latitude Tours at 35 PSI. For all I know it may be wind noise from the mirrors because my door seals are perfect. Did you use the OEM fender liners or aftermarket like RA sells?

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?VIEW=174&WRENCHES=1&PageHeader=

Aftermarket, RA.

I will admit my tire noise is a little high as I let my front wheel bearings go a little too long before replacing, but there is a noticeable drop in interior noise level with just putting the passenger side one in place. These trucks will never be quiet, but it helps..

I am running Bridgestone Dueller HL's. My truck is 2 wheel drive, so this is sufficient for my needs.

Greg

 

[ptf18]

I just changed out all 4 door strikers. Solved about 95% of cab rattles! Best $40 I think I have spent on the truck.

How much wear was on the plastic bushing ( i assume thats what's worn) when you decided to change these out?

 

[KajunBndit]

Going to a Christmas Party this evening with the better half at church Riding in the Sport Trac!

 

[gtyates]

How much wear was on the plastic bushing ( i assume thats what's worn) when you decided to change these out?

All 4 of the "sleeves" had obvious indentations from the door resting on them. But mine had developed some door rattle in the left rear and right front doors, as well as some in the drivers door. After replacing all 4 of these strikers the vibration/buzziness is gone.

Another side benefit has bene the front passenger door. Before replacing these strikers about 1 out of 4 times the doors would not unlock on initial attempt using key fob. Now they unlock every time.. I don't know how or why it is related, but this is our observation.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Same here. These were my two very worn and tired front door bushings.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...r-bolt-bushing-kit.340603/page-2#post-3578866

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Had to replace the lower radiator hose on my '01 ST. I had replaced it when I replaced the radiator 6-7 months ago. I installed a heater in the lower hose at that time, & obviously didn't cut enough out of the hose as the hose has been making contact with the sway bar, which resulting in a weak spot in the hose. I noticed it leaking a couple of days ago, but only when the engine was warm. Not too bad of a job - except it was 24 degrees and we got 1/2" of snow while I was doing this outside. Of course the snow stopped shortly after I finished. The snow wasn't too much of a nuisance, and really was the reason I was doing this today. Without the snow, I would have parked the truck for the weekend and fixed it inside at work Monday, but the wife will want to drive it tomorrow in the snow. The bigger nuisance was the drain plug unscrews completely out of the radiator. I wasn't expecting that. Of course it fell into the drain pan, and antifreeze shot farther out than I expected - especially after an air bubble cleared - and got coolant in my socket set. So I had a bigger mess than necessary, but the hose doesn't leak now. I didn't put the heater in the new hose.

 

[koda2000]

I replaced my upper and lower rad hoses last fall, when I replaced my radiator, and found I had to cut quite a bit off the rad side of both hoses (maybe 1-2" as I recall). I wonder why the replacement hoses are so long? As you learned the lower hose will rub on the sway bar and I found the upper hose will cover and rub on the transmission dip stick if you don't shorten it. IIRC I bought my replacement hoses at AutoZone, but they were brand-name hose.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Hoses are often too long. I assume that's so they can be used in more than 1 application, but too long is better than too short. These were Dayco hoses, and I had to cut a good 1 1/2" off the upper end. That's probably all I cut out of the first one to allow for the heater, but I should have cut that much off the top too. There was probably a little bit of clearance between hose and sway bar when I installed it, but the hose stretched in diameter after use. I haven't changed the upper hose yet. I was going to when I did the new radiator, but neither Advance or O'Reilly's had them in stock at any of their local stores or warehouses, both of which are close to my house.

 

[koda2000]

Hoses are often too long. I assume that's so they can be used in more than 1 application, but too long is better than too short. These were Dayco hoses, and I had to cut a good 1 1/2" off the upper end. That's probably all I cut out of the first one to allow for the heater, but I should have cut that much off the top too. There was probably a little bit of clearance between hose and sway bar when I installed it, but the hose stretched in diameter after use. I haven't changed the upper hose yet. I was going to when I did the new radiator, but neither Advance or O'Reilly's had them in stock at any of their local stores or warehouses, both of which are close to my house.

I think mine were Dayco's also. Compare your new upper hose to your old one closely to know where to cut it. I didn't and had to remove it again.