What did you do this weekend? Participation required | Page 19 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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All 4 of the "sleeves" had obvious indentations from the door resting on them. But mine had developed some door rattle in the left rear and right front doors, as well as some in the drivers door. After replacing all 4 of these strikers the vibration/buzziness is gone.

Another side benefit has bene the front passenger door. Before replacing these strikers about 1 out of 4 times the doors would not unlock on initial attempt using key fob. Now they unlock every time.. I don't know how or why it is related, but this is our observation.

Where did you find these bushings? I've looked everywhere for them and can't find them. I can find numerous options for the liftgate, but I need them for my rear doors and they're NOT interchangeable.
 



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^ Save yourself time and aggravation searching for separate DOOR striker bushings, they do not exist. Dorman 38424 replacement bushing kit containing two sizes does not work for the required 7/16" ID x 9/16" OD size used for the front and rear doors only. To be safe and confirm size. use a 9/16" open ended wrench to measure.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...cipation-required.433126/page-14#post-3584733

TWO complete OEM Ford door strikers for $22.38 shipped. IMO, do not bother with the aftermarket Dorman 38445 strikers.BTDT, very soft metal and weak PVC bushings. If you choose to replace the strikers, make sure you outline the base with a Sharpie or similar, and torque to the recommended 30 ft/lb, spec. After installing, remove ink with a Q-Tip and paint thinner or alcohol. GL

Here's the eBay link gtgates provided. 3 pairs shown remaining on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Ranger...ash=item2ca1e46578:g:rzkAAOSwuTxV~F1~&vxp=mtr
 






Replaced spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, and air filter. Never thought spark plugs could be so hard to change. Removing passenger side wheel and wheel well made it much easier.

Gapped motor craft plugs to .065
Replace oem wires with livewires
Screamin deamon ignition coil
K&N drop in air filter

Truck runs real good, noticeably better. Needed the tune up.

Now to figure out this engine rattle and what to do about the valve cover gaskets.
 






Replaced spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, and air filter. Never thought spark plugs could be so hard to change. Removing passenger side wheel and wheel well made it much easier.

Gapped motor craft plugs to .065
Replace oem wires with livewires
Screamin deamon ignition coil
K&N drop in air filter

Truck runs real good, noticeably better. Needed the tune up.

Now to figure out this engine rattle and what to do about Thera king valve cover gaskets.

Where did you come up with a spark plug gap of.065? Everything I've ever seen on the 4.0L SOHC says .054.
 


















Not trying to be a downer here, just a heads up. Screamin' Demon coil packs have had an extremely high failure rate in the past on the MyST forum. This wasn't a case of a bad production run, but over a few year time span. The failures seem to occur from the earlier SD coils that had a different firing order than OEM packs. If you bought it new keep the receipt and make a photocopy if they use the common "disappearing" ink like many stores do. Again, not trying to burst anyone's bubble here, just make sure you're covered. Here's one thread, "My Turn--SD Coil", there are MANY more searching "Screamin' Demon" on that forum. GL
 






Oh, okay. I just wanted to make sure you had the correct gap.

Thanks for looking out.

Not trying to be a downer here, just a heads up. Screamin' Demon coil packs have had an extremely high failure rate in the past on the MyST forum. This wasn't a case of a bad production run, but over a few year time span. The failures seem to occur from the earlier SD coils that had a different firing order than OEM packs. If you bought it new keep the receipt and make a photocopy if they use the common "disappearing" ink like many stores do. Again, not trying to burst anyone's bubble here, just make sure you're covered. Here's one thread, "My Turn--SD Coil", there are MANY more searching "Screamin' Demon" on that forum. GL

Thanks for the info. I thought I did my research but it is obvious I missed a few threads. I'll def make a copy of the receipt. My coil pack has the same firing order so hopefully I am okay. Will keep my eye on it for sure.
 






Yeah, there's no way I'd buy OE mounts (even if they were the same price as the aftermarket mounts). I've had the Prothane mounts for over a year now. I need to go back and re-torque them (as per Prothane's instructions) but i'm very happy with them. I paid under $100 for the complete set and with Amazon points I think it came to like $73 with free shipping.
Are you talking about body mounts I can't seem to find a full set they say position 1 or 3 or 5 not the whole set my mounts are garbage help me find new mounts please
 






Are you talking about body mounts I can't seem to find a full set they say position 1 or 3 or 5 not the whole set my mounts are garbage help me find new mounts please

Are we talking about a Sport Trac? This is the Sport Trac forum. Below is a link to what many of us have used... If you don't like red, I believe they are also available in black.

https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-6-1...keywords=Prothane+ford+sport+trac+body+mounts

The kit does the whole truck, radiator core and 6 under body mounts. They are referred to as positions A, B, C and D.
 












Prothane 6116 is ST specific. 2001-03 Sport has five body mount locations.

Complete polyurethane body mount kit for 2001-03 TWO door Sport:
http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/DFM002

Dorman rubber body mounts w/ hardware. Sold individually. Note "Sport" designation in description.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2003,explorer,4.0l+v6,1414493,suspension,subframe+bushing,10942?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+/

I know the Sport has 5 body mounts. That's why I asked the poster what vehicle he was asking about. Technically he's asking in the wrong forum.
 






Changed the bag style center console out to the full console style in my son's best friends new to him ST. As you can see the armrest was broken and some one had a failed attempt at repair. I got a center console from a 2000 Mountaineer. I got other parts from a ST and merged the two. I deleted the heat and A/C stuff out of the console before reinstall. On the rear control panel I installed two power outlets. Sorry I didn't get a picture of that. On the front of the console I drilled a small hole and put a yellow led bulb in it from what was the ashtray. It was a little bright so I put a license plate light cover over it to keep the light out of the drivers eyes.
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IMG_20170121_154204768_HDR.jpg
IMG_20170121_154218965_HDR.jpg
 






Spent some time over the weekend cleaning out the prior owners dirt and grime and making this newer sport trac more mine.

IMG_4528_zpscb5uipk4.jpg
 






Replaced fuel filter. Never did it before. Easiest thing I ever did on a vehicle.

Jacked up one side of the truck about 2-3in. Didn't notice at first but after a double take I really like the way the truck sat with 2-3in with my stock AT tires. Might have to look at a add a leaf and torsion twist
 






Replaced leaking thermostat housing
Replaced tensioner pulley. No more rattle :chug:
 






I did a lot this weekend - prepping my 2001 sport trac to sell it.

Rear passenger window wasn't working - after a ton of troubleshooting, I figured out the master switch in the drivers door was bad. I could've probably fixed the original one but I found one for $20 and swapped it out.

Cruise control wasn't working. At some point during the vehicle's life someone had installed a new brake position switch with the inline fuses. There was a short in the wiring harness with the fuses so I just made my own harness and it works perfectly.

Power seat wasn't working so I pulled it out - the gears/screws keep misaligning and it gets itself in a bind. found out it's something I can't just fix but I can get it back in trac to work fine unless it's slid all the way back - then it becomes misaligned again.

Oil pressure gauge wasn't working at all so I changed the oil and installed a new oil pressure sensor - works perfectly fine.

The aftermarket stereo I installed 3 years ago came with a backup camera I never felt like installing - installed that in the tailgate below the ford symbol and ran the rca cable up to the front of the cab along the top of the frame - using pre-existing holes to zip tie the cable in place.

Now this truck is in perfect condition and ready for sale
 






I changed spark plug wires need to change coilover but want to find adjustable ones and which is best
 






Adding a back up camera so since I planned to remove the dash I replaced the shift bushings so my shifter would not be so sloppy. Here is how worn out they get:

IMG_4540_zpswwzgstei.jpg


Also turns out the inner most bracket was cracked:

IMG_4544_zps6n5yqdyw.jpg



While I was in there, I put in a new turn signal switch - $36 from Rock Auto. Now it shifts and the turn signal operate like new. Whoever had this before hammered the controls.

I brought the wires in from the back up camera at the drivers side front kick panel.

IMG_4537_zps6ntfdwv4.jpg



I ran out of time with the superbowl, so the new head unit is not in yet. I just finished filing last night, but want to hit the trim piece with a little paint.

Also, I started having a little worry that I did not totally tighten all the bolts up for the steering column, so I want to address that first before bolting putting all the trim pieces together.

What I learned - if you are going to remove the shift tube shift all the way down to gear 1 first. You will have to drop the column down to near the seat to get a small ratchet with a torx on the back bolts. I made the mistake of not being in low great, bolted it all up, then could not turn the key as I bolted it up with the gear shift locked.

A new turn signal switch is an easy replacement. 2 torx screws.

Also, since I had it all apart I got rid of a few dead bugs behind the dash glass.
 



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Back up camera is installed. Really liking it.

IMG_4550_zps3glaclca.jpg



Here is with the color set to match the dash:

IMG_4557_zpsehtdt59v.jpg



With where I installed it, surprisingly, it even works well with the tailgate down.

IMG_4553_zpsqmips5ap.jpg


The only real set back was that I messed up the RCA plug when feeding the camera wiring into the interior and had to splice in a new one.

I have the wiring kit that came with my crutchfield head unit if anyone needs it. My used ST already had an after market radio and someone before me cut the wires and removed the amp and sub, so I had to splice into the vehicle wiring versus into an adapter that plugs into the factory wiring.
 






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