Stuck fan clutch nut

[jtre]

RH thread means standing in front of the truck you turn the fan nut counter-clockwise to remove it. Clockwise to tighten it.

BTW: You don't say why you're removing the fan/clutch, but if you're planning on changing the 5.0L water pump, once the fan is out of the way your fun is just beginning. Changing a water pump on a 5.0L is usually one of the most miserable job you can do. This is because the long bolts tend to rust inside the water pump, seize and snap. I'm an avid DIY'er, but I now pay someone to do that job.

im aware of those pitfalls, luckily I have snapped plenty of bolts and am used to dealing with those situations. unfortunately, this is not a piece that I can drill out or use an extractor kit or something and call it a day.

 

[Josh P]

When I changed the clutch fan on my car I got a 36 mm wrench from napa. I used pliers made for removing oil filters to hold on the pulley, it destroyed the belt but I was replacing it anyway. A friend gave the wrench a few smacks with a hammer to break it free. I don't think that nut is too rounded off to be removed.

 

[jtre]

FINALLY got it off with some big channel locks and a breaker bar on the pulley holder tool (with help from a buddy)...beer time
before I tackle the rest of this wonderful job

 

[koda2000]

Personally, I would not reinstall that fan clutch, but you can probably get away with reusing it as long as you install it with the channel locks. The nut doesn't need to be super tight, as it tightens itself when the engine is running (don't put any thread locker on the threads).

I'm betting that once you got the nut broken free the threads on the w/p didn't even have any rust on them?

 

[96firephoenix]

I would not reinstall that fan clutch

neither would I. $100 for a new one may be a little salty though, and it's your money and effort, so it's up to you.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...03231,cooling+system,radiator+fan+clutch,6812

 

[jtre]

i have been debating the new clutch, some say do and some say don't with a WP replacement. what are your thoughts?

 

[koda2000]

i have been debating the new clutch, some say do and some say don't with a WP replacement. what are your thoughts?

If it's still working properly, my only concern would be with the mangled nut. If there's any question regarding whether the clutch is working as intended, this would be the time to replace it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done on getting it off. If you had the trouble twisting the Channel Lock pliers in there like I did, I'd replace the clutch. I was worried about damaging the fan and clutch, I only cracked one fan blade that I could see. My new 98 truck has many cracks in its fan, my Mercury didn't have any before I got to it.

I bought a new fan and clutch for my new truck last year, they weren't that bad then, maybe $60 each I think. I like Rock Auto too, but I always price shop. Using their website also gives you many OEM part numbers. Highlight those and right click, choose search for it on the web. That often turns up a better deal for the OEM part.

 

[delexploder]

96/97 metal fan is the way to go if you do decide to replace

 

[jtre]

I have a metal fan already. Water pump is now off (one bolt was kinda rusty, but none broke which surprised me)...on to fixing the timing cover gasket tomorrow. Now, I plan to replace the pump, clutch, hoses, and T-stat in addition to the offending cover gasket. Anything else I should look at? how long does a timing chain usually last (i have 173k on my truck right now), anyone know where I can find the short piece of hose that comes off the bottom of the water pump? or can I just cut a section of radiator hose for that?

 

[Josh P]

Timing chain usually outlasts the rest of the motor.

 

[CDW6212R]

If the hose you mention is because you have three(an oil cooler too), then those two lower hoses are for the 302 with the oil cooler option.

The timing chain should be done at 100k miles if you ever get down to it at some point. The tough part is dropping the pan a bit to let the timing cover come out/forward. If you are pulling the timing cover anyway, it'd be smart to do the timing chain if you can. Only buy a seamless roller chain, meaning the individual rollers have no seams in them.

 

[jtre]

If the hose you mention is because you have three(an oil cooler too), then those two lower hoses are for the 302 with the oil cooler option.

The timing chain should be done at 100k miles if you ever get down to it at some point. The tough part is dropping the pan a bit to let the timing cover come out/forward. If you are pulling the timing cover anyway, it'd be smart to do the timing chain if you can. Only buy a seamless roller chain, meaning the individual rollers have no seams in them.

I am referring to the one lower hose on the pump that conncects near my oil filter. I saw three hoses on the pump, a smaller bypass and heater hose, and then the larger one on the bottom left of the pump. As for the TC, im unsure if it has been done ever since I have only owned it after 168k miles and did not do it since i have owned it

 

[CDW6212R]

The normal lower radiator hose is about 15" long, going to the radiator. I thought you might have an oil cooler, which has two hoses, one from the radiator, and one very short(6" maybe) one to the WP.

You can now see how much trouble it is to get down to the timing cover. I doubt anyone has changed the timing chain before, they likely won't "fail" before the other engine parts. But they get loose after a while, and at 100k they are plenty loose. When you get the cover off, you'll be able to twist the timing chain and decide if you think it's still tight enough.

 

[jtre]

The normal lower radiator hose is about 15" long, going to the radiator. I thought you might have an oil cooler, which has two hoses, one from the radiator, and one very short(6" maybe) one to the WP.

You can now see how much trouble it is to get down to the timing cover. I doubt anyone has changed the timing chain before, they likely won't "fail" before the other engine parts. But they get loose after a while, and at 100k they are plenty loose. When you get the cover off, you'll be able to twist the timing chain and decide if you think it's still tight enough.

yeah, i have the 6" or so hose on the WP. where do people on here tget their replacement hoses? I cant seem to find the specific hoses I need. (the 6" one, and the bypass/heater hoses coming from the top of the WP)

 

[CDW6212R]

Any parts store should have it or be able to get in within a day. Take the old one and be sure they match it, if you have the oil cooler then telling them should be enough to get the right one.

The shortest bypass hose is the weakest link, that blows more often than the others. So always change that one. Those come too long, so test fit it by setting next to the two outlets, and cut off a little of the end, so the bend isn't more than 90* when installed.

 

[jtre]

Any parts store should have it or be able to get in within a day. Take the old one and be sure they match it, if you have the oil cooler then telling them should be enough to get the right one.

The shortest bypass hose is the weakest link, that blows more often than the others. So always change that one. Those come too long, so test fit it by setting next to the two outlets, and cut off a little of the end, so the bend isn't more than 90* when installed.

unfortunately, the two smaller hoses got quite chewed up when removing them, i guess I can go to the parts store or dealer and see what they have. is the other small hose (not the 90 bypass) called a heater hose?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, there are four heater hoses, and some parts stores don't have exact pictures that match what they are. But most places should have them, check around.

 

[jtre]

anyone have tips for removing the crank bolt? I was thinking of resting a cheater bar on something strong on the right side of the engine bay and bumping the starter, but is there another method?

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I found removing the crank bolts to be easiest with an air impact