Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

Haven't done much to the Explorer lately. I don't think I will replace the engine main seal before the next trip, its just too much work to do before a big trip. The oil level isn't dropping, but it is making a mess. Today I made up new fins to help direct air flow into the front of the radiator. I made them out of some sheet metal I cut off the horse trailer divider I modified so it would retract. They came out pretty good, and should work. You can see in the pics the passenger side was easy. The driver side, I had to go around the wiring for the battery isolator. I used heavy duty two-sided tape and self tapping screws to secure the fins.

 

[RockRanger]

Looks good. Trip is one month away. I can't wait. Hopefully Dusy is open for us. Either way it will be a blast.

 

[BKennedy]

I also pulled the lower bumper mounted LED light to see if the improved air flow reduces the temperature. If it does, I will switch the lights out since I rarely use the upper bumper light. Its a OSRAM LED and the beam is too narrow for trail use, but its good for extreme long range. The lower bar is a cheaper flood LED and is great for night runs. If I am leading a group on a night run, I usually use the roof bar as its curved, and lights up the area all around for a good distance, along with the flood. If I run all three bars at the same time, I can feel the power loss due to the strain on the alternator. If I am following, I use the lower flood as It lights up the ground all around me, and the rig in front of me without blinding anyone.

I don't remember the temps going up like that, but it didn't see a lot of highway use before I changed the round KC's for the light bars. The area the lights covered is about the same size wise, but in different places. The round lights let more air into the center of the grill, while the bar lets the air in around the sides.
KC's

LED Light Bars

 

[josh40601]

Are you still having rising temp issues?

I thought after the trans cooler swap everything was running cooler

 

[BKennedy]

It is running cooler, but I wanted to see if there was small things I could do to get it lower. Removing the LED light bar did nothing. Last week I took a drive to get temps with the light bar in place. Temps usually stay around 155-165. On a hot day going up grades at freeway speeds, the temps would get up to 180-185 and stay there for the rest of the freeway portion of the drive. Monday it was hot here, and even hotter in north east county. I took the Explorer when I went to help my buddy work on his Jeep. Same results as before. Going to put the light bar back on.

Also noticed some play in the steering wheel. The drag link rod ends have some slop in them. I think the binding I was getting at full passenger side drop caused them to wear prematurely. I ordered replacements from Ruff Stuff. After I install them, I will check to make sure its not partly due to the steering gear box.

 

[josh40601]

wow yours runs A LOT cooler than mine. I'm usually living around 190, and during long hill climbs or slow crawling, I'm usually around 210-225.

 

[BKennedy]

Do you have a GM 700R4 trans? Its optimal operating temp is between 150-180, depending on who you ask or where you search. They are supposed to run cooler than the Ford units.

 

[josh40601]

Do you have a GM 700R4 trans? Its optimal operating temp is between 150-180, depending on who you ask or where you search. They are supposed to run cooler than the Ford units.

I'm sorry buddy, I missunderstood. I thought you were talking about the engine temps. I do not have the 700r4 setup, just the factory ford transmission

 

[BKennedy]

I'm sorry buddy, I missunderstood. I thought you were talking about the engine temps. I do not have the 700r4 setup, just the factory ford transmission

Got it. After I bypassed the radiator with the trans cooling lines, my engine temps dropped quite a bit. It used to get up to the "A" in NORMAL going up long grades in hot weather with a 185* thermostat. Now, it doesn't get higher than the "M" with a 195* thermostat. Like you posted in your build thread, I also like the idea of having two separate systems (engine cooling, trans cooling).

Edit: I posted this earlier, but the transmission cooler line fittings at the radiator is threaded at 3/8" NPT. I used brass plugs that were less than $2 for both.

 

[josh40601]

Edit: I posted this earlier, but the transmission cooler line fittings at the radiator is threaded at 3/8" NPT. I used brass plugs that were less than $2 for both.

YESSSS. Thank you for posting that. I had those adapters and I left one sitting out so I could take it with me to Home Depot to get the plugs. I need to do this on the ranger too.

 

[BKennedy]

Replaced the rod ends on the drag link today. Took quite a bit of play out of the steering. Now the play in the steering wheel is less than 2" up and down.

 

[BKennedy]

I have been calling Sam's Club weekly to see if the Duracell 34/78 AGM batteries they sell for $129 are in stock. The manager finally told me they don't carry that battery any more. Why would they stop carrying one of their best selling batteries?

Anybody got any alternatives (AGM Group Size 34/78)? I was trying to get a pair of them before the end of next week. No Optima's, bad luck with the past two.

 

[Rick]

Odyssey is one that a lot of racers like.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/batte...MI0JzJ37bh1QIVj4tpCh0stAIBEAAYASAAEgKRJvD_BwE

 

[johnny499]

Agreed with the odyssey batteries. Sears has their high end agm that is made by odyssey but does not have the same warranty and may not be manufactured to the same standards.

 

[BKennedy]

I am looking more at the Sears prices than Odyssey. I can get two for the price of one, and I need two. I am waiting for a email response from Sam's Club to see if they can be ordered in, the price point is outstanding. If not, then I will go with the Sears since they are available locally.

 

[Brian1]

Do you have a Pepboys? Their Bosch AGM batteries are a great price when bought online (and then picked up) and the warranty is better than many other AGMs (4yr free replacement). Only downside is they don't have a 34/78 combo battery that I saw. I recently picked one up and it has been great so far.

 

[BKennedy]

I have been looking at those as well after I read your thread. Is the group 34 the same outer dimensions as a 34/78? I think they are and if so, they would fit my battery boxes.

Edit: Just looked them up on this site http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm, and they are the same dimensions, so thanks for the tip. I will measure my battery dimensions just to make sure, then order. They are a few dollars less than the Sears Die Hard Gold and have a full extra year warranty.

 

[josh40601]

when do you head out for the trip up north?

 

[BKennedy]

Early Saturday morning.

I pulled my batteries before I ordered the Bosch's and what I thought was 34/78 is actually Optima group 75/25 red in the front and a group 35 yellow in the back. I remembered when I got the first Optima red top for the Explorer many years ago that was the size with an adaptor to fit the larger battery tray. When I added the second battery, I got the same size and made the driver side tray to fit. Then, when I went SAS, I pulled the original tray, put the primary battery on the passenger side and built a box to go in the old spare tire well. The good news is that a group 75/25 is the same size as groups 25, 35, 75, 85 and 86. Ordered two group 25 Bosch batteries on sale at $142 each. They should be ready for pickup tomorrow. I pulled the battery box to take with me to make sure they fit.

What really sucks is that yellow top is only two years old and has never held a charge for more than a few days. I ran the engine for 20 minutes and the next day it was down to 10 volts. I could send it back and get another one, but its not worth it to me to give Optima another chance. The red top is about 8 years old and just now slowly going bad. When Costco carried the Optima's, I used to return one every other year so I had batteries that were no older than two years. Worked great until they stopped carrying them.

 

[Rick]

What really sucks is that yellow top is only two years old and has never held a charge for more than a few days. I ran the engine for 20 minutes and the next day it was down to 10 volts. I could send it back and get another one, but its not worth it to me to give Optima another chance. The red top is about 8 years old and just now slowly going bad.

Seems that consistency is Optima's biggest problem right now. Some get lucky with the new ones, and some don't. I have only had one yellow top go bad in a short time and that was completely my own fault. I had a load hooked to it and when I checked, it was down to 1.5v. It never recovered from that, and I tried all the Optima recharge tricks