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Upgrading from MFT/Sync 2 to Sync 3

HDJulie,
I see that you have a 2016 Explorer, this is the correct link for their 16 Explorer upgrade kit as the 16 only has 1 USB port on the USB module.

https://www.4dtech.com/16-ford-explorer-sync-3-upgrade-for-myford-touch/
So I ordered the unit & my husband installed it for me. Took him about an hour. It works great & the installation videos on the site are very helpful. I'm very pleased though I did suddenly start getting a message that my front camera has low visibility & to clean it. I've done that & verified that it works but still get the message every time I go somewhere. I emailed 4DTech to verify that the unit has nothing to do with the camera connection. If I end up taking it in, I'll revert back to the MFT beforehand.
 



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This low visibility refers to the windshield mounted front camera not the one in the grill. Just making sure you realize that?
 






This low visibility refers to the windshield mounted front camera not the one in the grill. Just making sure you realize that?
I did not realize that. Thanks, that might be the problem then.
 






HDJulie,
I see that you have a 2016 Explorer, this is the correct link for their 16 Explorer upgrade kit as the 16 only has 1 USB port on the USB module.

https://www.4dtech.com/16-ford-explorer-sync-3-upgrade-for-myford-touch/

This is a super easy install/switch out, whatever you want to call it, the only problem I have is paying about $2,100 for SYNC 3 with navigation. Cell phone navigation works great until you lose reception, similar to streaming music, it works great until you lose reception. $1,500 is reasonable, but not $2,100 IMO.
 






This is a super easy install/switch out, whatever you want to call it, the only problem I have is paying about $2,100 for SYNC 3 with navigation. Cell phone navigation works great until you lose reception, similar to streaming music, it works great until you lose reception. $1,500 is reasonable, but not $2,100 IMO.
I agree -- it is a high price. But it's the only option for getting away from MFT & I'm happy with the switch. I intend to keep this car for 10 years or more & I'm hoping Sync 3 will continue to be updated & new features added for at least a few years, so I consider it an investment. Plus, as you mentioned, it is a very easy install & can be done with no extra expense. We are upgrading my husband's 2006 Silverado with a new Pioneer unit & will pay to have it installed which adds a couple hundred dollars to the price.
 






I agree -- it is a high price. But it's the only option for getting away from MFT & I'm happy with the switch. I intend to keep this car for 10 years or more & I'm hoping Sync 3 will continue to be updated & new features added for at least a few years, so I consider it an investment. Plus, as you mentioned, it is a very easy install & can be done with no extra expense. We are upgrading my husband's 2006 Silverado with a new Pioneer unit & will pay to have it installed which adds a couple hundred dollars to the price.

Unfortunately I don't view cars as investments, but on the contrary I view them as expenses, especially US cars that depreciate relatively fast and steady. I owned a first and third generation Explorer and those because of their design I had no trouble upgrading their audio systems in, etc., but this generation of Explorer I don't have a lot confidence in when or if it will get into higher mileage. By everything I've read it's an expensive car to maintain based on the problems I've read about in the other forum, plus a new design will come out within the next couple of years. This is the other forum the 2011 - 2018 Ford Explorer that I'm referring to:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?forums/stock-2011-2018-ford-explorer-discussion.152/
 






Unfortunately I don't view cars as investments, but on the contrary I view them as expenses, especially US cars that depreciate relatively fast and steady. I owned a first and third generation Explorer and those because of their design I had no trouble upgrading their audio systems in, etc., but this generation of Explorer I don't have a lot confidence in when or if it will get into higher mileage. By everything I've read it's an expensive car to maintain based on the problems I've read about in the other forum, plus a new design will come out within the next couple of years. This is the other forum the 2011 - 2018 Ford Explorer that I'm referring to:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?forums/stock-2011-2018-ford-explorer-discussion.152/
I didn't mean an investment in that it would increase the monetary value, I meant as an investment in what I'd be able to do with the features coming later since MFT is likely done as far as new functionality goes. I'm at the point where I need to scale back so I can focus on being in a good financial situation as I get closer to retirement age. It's still a ways off but close enough that I have to consider it. So I'm investing IN the car. Plus, I'm a gadget geek so I like new toys :)
 






What is most unfortunate is that MFT SYNC 2 that came out as late as 2015 on Ford vehicles will forgotten with no new updates, nor will there ever be any Apps for it, even though there was placeholder for them.
 






I've seen it for I think $1500 if you get non-nav. You can also source the parts yourself and it is considerably less expensive. I plan on doing it in at least one of my vehicles, maybe both. I tried sync 3 on a loaner and its night and day difference. google maps on the dash screen is worth it.

Do you have a list of the individual parts needed? I've been wanting to do this but like others, have a hard time spending that much.

Looks like the parts are:
  • Genuine Ford voice activated navigation system control module
  • Genuine Ford 8" Capacitive Touchscreen
  • Screen to module cable
  • Under dash, retrofit GPS antenna (Required - existing antenna NOT compatible)
  • Replacement Media Hub
  • Media Hub Wiring Adapter
One advantage, it looks like, is that they program it for you. Without this, sounds like after you install it you'd have to go to a Ford dealer?
  • Vehicle specific programming - NO trip to the dealer required! (VIN Required During Checkout)
 






There have been a few members that have changed their Sync 2 to Sync 3 by other means. Here is a thread I found using the Forum's handy 'Search' feature (upper right).
SYNC3 in a 2016 Explorer

Peter
I've just upgraded my 2011 Explorer from sync2 to sync3. It was very straight forward and everything seems to be working as it should. Jason at fordpimods.com made it an easy cut and paste.
 






Pulling together the parts for a diy conversion but was wondering if anyone has found a less expensive usb pigtail wire harness than the 4D Tech option (they are currently out of stock) for a 2013 Limited.
 






Did this for both my '15 Explorer and my wifes '14 Fusion. Got the screen and APIM for both through Car-Part.com. Spent $400 on mine and $150 on wifes after figuring out how to search better. Add in the USB Hub ($45 on Ebay), Pigtails ($25 a piece), GPS Antennas ($14 each Amazon) and programming from Dan at 2GFusions ($75 each) came out to about $600 for my car and $300 for wifes car. Fully functional, both with Nav, updated to 3.0.

My first GPS antenna kept throwing faults so I ended up getting a shark fin antenna with GPS from Car-Part and painted it to match. Then got a new GPS splitter from Tasca so its mounted on the roof and is clean throughout.
 






Julian, would you share your technique for better method of search on car-parts? Thanks in advance!
 






Remember that screens are almost universal in that there are 3 actual models across all Sync 3 installs:

8.0" Standard Mount
CMAX (2016+)
Escape (2016+)
Expedition (2016+)
F-150 (2016+)
Focus (2016+)
Fusion (2017+)
Mustang (2016+)

8.0" Recessed Mount
Edge (2016+)
Explorer (2016+)
F-250 (2017+)
F-350 (2017+)
Flex (2016+)
Taurus (2016+)

6.5" Standard Mount
Fiesta (2016+)
Transit (2016+)
Transit Connect (2017+)

That means if you can find a screen from an Edge or Taurus it should install in an Explorer though you'll have to swap the mounting brackets from your existing Sync 2 install. Second when searching for screens on Car-Part try to find the VIN number from the supplier, either calling or finding it in the pictures posted. If you want Nav you need to find one where Nav was already installed. Research the VIN by checking the Window Sticker or the Ford ETIS site. Really important to know about the car its coming from and what package includes Nav etc.
 












A quick shout out to the many that have shared their story/process for the Sync 2 to Sync 3 conversion. I spent several hours researching and watching different youtube conversions / checking information - this forum, Focused Garage youtube channel and the F150Forum provided the details and confidence for me to successfully make the conversion. I did want to summarize what my experience was - as it was not 'plug and play' as I had hoped.
Video:
F150forum: Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

1. Purchased Screen+APIM from car-parts.com for $300 - it ended up being an SB screen from a 2017 Lincoln MKC (without Nav) - so it was not recessed on the sides - so I quickly found out I was in for some work - without spending $50 for brackets....I may still try to get a NAV APIM based on Julian's suggestions above - as I can be more patient knowing my system is fully functional and I will use CarPlay for now - it would be nice to have true navigation once I travel off the cellular grid - which does happen from time to time.
www.car-parts.com

2. Bracket material $10. (2) Strong-Tie framing angles (yes, these are $0.79ea - I had a few trial/error iterations to get it right) and modified them with a dremel. This was the most time consuming part of the process for me. One could argue the $50 I could have spent on pre-made brackets would have been worth the time versus the money - let's be honest, for some of us, the project is about the experience and learning not always just about getting it done. Had I sat down and drew out of the opening, screw locations, etc to scale, laid the brackets out against the screen on the drawing (as I finally did)....'measure 2x, cut 1x' does mean something - I would have saved several hours, and I knew better.......
Ace Hardware: Item no: 5606579 | 044315046001: Simpson Strong-Tie Galvanized Steel Framing Angle 1(A35)

3. Purchased the (p/n: WPT1239) pig-tail wire harness from National Fleet Parts - $24 with tax/shipping - wired this inline with the existing harness for the USB. 4Dtech was out of the Gen1 pig-tail, glad I made the choice to do it myself - it wasn't too difficult to solder in. Solder pin 1 (+) to pin 1 (+) and pin 10 (-) to pin 4(-) (reference original harness wire to new harness wire - should be intuitive as the new harness only has 4 options, not 12 ;) )
Part: [WPT-1239]Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail(WPT1239)
Solder Diagram: How-To: Upgrade 4.2" Sync to 8" MFT - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

4. Purchased the CarPlay USB on ebay - HC3Z-19A387-B for ($45).

5. Bezel - cover that replaces the original cover for a nice finish GC3Z-19C149-A ($30). I did purchase this from 4Dtech before I realized I could have gotten it a lot less expensive somewhere else - but I did watch their videos - so I will consider it payment for their time.
www.4DTech.com

6. GPS Antenna - purchased this off ebay as well for $13 - used aggressive velcro I had around from sticking up my IPass on my windshield to place under my front dash speaker. I did not disconnect the original antenna - as I understand it is needed for the dash compass - I do not see any interference between the two as some have experienced.

7. Purchased a Forscan ODBII for $30 for programming. The programming also took some time - but thankfully was not bad. It was probably the most stressful as the risk of 'bricking' something. I saved the original, and saved every step along the way. Thankfully, I did not need to make very many changes. Everything is functional! Steering wheel controls / front-back climate controls / heat-cool seats / steering wheel. As a side, I changed the lane-change blinker value from 3 blinks to 5, disabled the 'double-honk' when closing the door when left running and changed the screen from Lincoln to Ford 350 Performance - which my son tells me is 'sick' (or is it 'syck')

summary:
Screen+APIM (No-Nav): $300
Bracket material: $10
WPT-1239: $24
CarPlay USB (HC3Z-19A387-B): $45
Bezel/Trim for USB (GC3Z-19C149-A): $30
GPS Antenna: $13
Forscan: $30
All-in cost: $452
Time: ~8 hrs for conversion (damn brackets)/ ~10hr research/confidence building

Overall, a little more than I want to spend - I was hoping for <$400 - I am very happy with the outcome! I might - might - sell my original for some cash to offset the difference. There has been some discussions about modifying the original, which can be a concern (I am out of warranty so no issue on that front). I rationalized making the change by, there are after-market radios installed all of the time and this is 'kind of' along those lines. To each is their own!

Hoped I helped someone along the way!
 






Thanks to all for the information regarding upgrading to Sync 3.

I just completed this upgrade on my 2013 Explorer Sport. With all the information provided, the upgrade went quickly and smoothly. The actual hardware installation, including USB harness splicing and soldering, took less than 2 hours. Very pleased with the results.

Breakdown:

1. Screen and APIM from car-part.com form $265 shipped. Unit was a Nav APIM which came from a 2016 Edge. Unit was the recessed version that matched the Explorer bezel - the old brackets from the 2013 screen mounted perfectly to the new screen.

2. Used the WPT1239 pigtail harness from National Fleet Parts for $24.

3. Purchased the CarPlay USB on ebay for ~$43 shipped (HC3Z-19A387-B)

4. Bezel from 4Dtech GC3Z-19C149-A for $30

5. GPS antenna from Amazon for $13.

6. ODBLink MX from Amazon for $70.

7. Trim removal tools from Amazon $10. link

8. APIM programming from Dan at Sync 3 APIM Programming by DanMc85 - I tried using several As-built APIM module codes from 2017+ Explorer Sports, but I was unable to get all the functions working correctly - main issues were Climate controls and steering wheel controls. Dan provided the APIM module coding within 30 minutes or less after I contacted him and sent him the information. Saved me hours of work, and everything worked. His instructions were excellent as well. Recommended.

So, all-in cost including tools and programming $525.

The APIM unit was at Sync 3 version 1.0. I downloaded the Sync 3 upgrade from Ford by adding the VIN to my profile and checking for a Sync update. Copied the downloaded files to a USB, plugged it in, and the unit upgraded in about 15 minutes or so. Unit is now at v 3.0 build 18025.

Many thanks to all who have shared the information here.

A quick shout out to the many that have shared their story/process for the Sync 2 to Sync 3 conversion. I spent several hours researching and watching different youtube conversions / checking information - this forum, Focused Garage youtube channel and the F150Forum provided the details and confidence for me to successfully make the conversion. I did want to summarize what my experience was - as it was not 'plug and play' as I had hoped.
Video:
F150forum: Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

1. Purchased Screen+APIM from car-parts.com for $300 - it ended up being an SB screen from a 2017 Lincoln MKC (without Nav) - so it was not recessed on the sides - so I quickly found out I was in for some work - without spending $50 for brackets....I may still try to get a NAV APIM based on Julian's suggestions above - as I can be more patient knowing my system is fully functional and I will use CarPlay for now - it would be nice to have true navigation once I travel off the cellular grid - which does happen from time to time.
www.car-parts.com

2. Bracket material $10. (2) Strong-Tie framing angles (yes, these are $0.79ea - I had a few trial/error iterations to get it right) and modified them with a dremel. This was the most time consuming part of the process for me. One could argue the $50 I could have spent on pre-made brackets would have been worth the time versus the money - let's be honest, for some of us, the project is about the experience and learning not always just about getting it done. Had I sat down and drew out of the opening, screw locations, etc to scale, laid the brackets out against the screen on the drawing (as I finally did)....'measure 2x, cut 1x' does mean something - I would have saved several hours, and I knew better.......
Ace Hardware: Item no: 5606579 | 044315046001: Simpson Strong-Tie Galvanized Steel Framing Angle 1(A35)

3. Purchased the (p/n: WPT1239) pig-tail wire harness from National Fleet Parts - $24 with tax/shipping - wired this inline with the existing harness for the USB. 4Dtech was out of the Gen1 pig-tail, glad I made the choice to do it myself - it wasn't too difficult to solder in. Solder pin 1 (+) to pin 1 (+) and pin 10 (-) to pin 4(-) (reference original harness wire to new harness wire - should be intuitive as the new harness only has 4 options, not 12 ;) )
Part: [WPT-1239]Motorcraft/Ford car/truck part-wiring pigtail(WPT1239)
Solder Diagram: How-To: Upgrade 4.2" Sync to 8" MFT - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

4. Purchased the CarPlay USB on ebay - HC3Z-19A387-B for ($45).

5. Bezel - cover that replaces the original cover for a nice finish GC3Z-19C149-A ($30). I did purchase this from 4Dtech before I realized I could have gotten it a lot less expensive somewhere else - but I did watch their videos - so I will consider it payment for their time.
www.4DTech.com

6. GPS Antenna - purchased this off ebay as well for $13 - used aggressive velcro I had around from sticking up my IPass on my windshield to place under my front dash speaker. I did not disconnect the original antenna - as I understand it is needed for the dash compass - I do not see any interference between the two as some have experienced.

7. Purchased a Forscan ODBII for $30 for programming. The programming also took some time - but thankfully was not bad. It was probably the most stressful as the risk of 'bricking' something. I saved the original, and saved every step along the way. Thankfully, I did not need to make very many changes. Everything is functional! Steering wheel controls / front-back climate controls / heat-cool seats / steering wheel. As a side, I changed the lane-change blinker value from 3 blinks to 5, disabled the 'double-honk' when closing the door when left running and changed the screen from Lincoln to Ford 350 Performance - which my son tells me is 'sick' (or is it 'syck')

summary:
Screen+APIM (No-Nav): $300
Bracket material: $10
WPT-1239: $24
CarPlay USB (HC3Z-19A387-B): $45
Bezel/Trim for USB (GC3Z-19C149-A): $30
GPS Antenna: $13
Forscan: $30
All-in cost: $452
Time: ~8 hrs for conversion (damn brackets)/ ~10hr research/confidence building

Overall, a little more than I want to spend - I was hoping for <$400 - I am very happy with the outcome! I might - might - sell my original for some cash to offset the difference. There has been some discussions about modifying the original, which can be a concern (I am out of warranty so no issue on that front). I rationalized making the change by, there are after-market radios installed all of the time and this is 'kind of' along those lines. To each is their own!

Hoped I helped someone along the way!
 






Is there a sound quality difference between SYNC 2 and SYNC 3, or do both head units sound the same?
 






I did not notice any difference. You ‘get’ the same basic adjustments - treble, mid, bass and fade/balance. Lastly speed volume adjustments
 



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Its the DSP (if equipped) and/or the ACM decides the sound quality...MFT or SYNC3 APIMs are just a head unit. They do nothing more than control the sound settings.
 






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