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M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy:D:D so let the fun begin.
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

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RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)
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VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)
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Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
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and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY
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Well im stuck..the clutch doesnt fit the flywheel and i cant find a part number on it anywhere. .this could take awile to figure out and i SURRRREEEE cant afford another $600 clutch...i have no receipts or records on this one
 



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Anyone know where the part number is on a centerforce dual friction? ??
 












No this ""should"" be it
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-df490309

The disc itself fits the splines on the trans and also fits in the flywheel..the pressure plate doesnt fit the flywheel..its "slightly "" to big and the bolt patterns are totally different. .

Im using the fidanza flywheel 186401
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-186401

And the trans is a modified T5 from a 06 Mustang 4.0 sohc
 






Well I definitely have the wrong clutch. Just went to Advance Auto and a 06 Mustang definitely fits my flywheel... I have no clue what Clutch is this. I guess I will have to call the tech line tomorrow and see if they can identify it. Would be nice if I could just get a new pressure plate considering the whole clutch cost $600
 






I had a feeling something like that was the issue. :(

Out of curiosity, I surfed summit's site and seen the kits offered the bearings, but not the clutch alone. Then tried to find a bearing only for them with no luck. Need a full centerforce catalog to figure all this out it seems.
 






I had a feeling something like that was the issue. :(

Out of curiosity, I surfed summit's site and seen the kits offered the bearings, but not the clutch alone. Then tried to find a bearing only for them with no luck. Need a full centerforce catalog to figure all this out it seems.
The pilot bearing was the right one,it fits in a sleeve or bushing..i was missing that bushing, its the same bushing that all 4.0 flywheels used..

Part # F5TZ-6K389-AA
http://m.ebay.com/itm/322396128077?_mwBanner=1


Im also using a master for a 06 mustang,im having my ss clutch line made to work
 






Some pictures. .it started as a 06 T5,then i changed the tailshaft and main shaft to a foxbody zspec parts
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Well went ahead and ordered the right clutch,it was on sale for $470 at ThMotorsports today for labor day so didnt want to miss the sale..thats about $100 cheaper than normal..

Ill call centerforce tomorrow and see if they can help ID this other clutch..
 






So old clutch is for a v6 Mustang but like a 67-70..it also fits the 289 and about a million other cars and trucks like bronco/f150 v6...but definitely not the 06

Also even though the disc itself looks like it fits the material its made outa is thinner than a 06 so he says dont run it,wont handle as much power..

The guy i talked to said they dont mark thier clutches with part numbers and only reason he knew is because of the pictures i sent him..said he has been working there for well over 20 years and started on the assembly floor..

O also interesting fack.. LUK makes the pressure plates and SACHS makes the disc..said thats how it is with about 98% of ALL clutch companies. .he also said the same about rear gears,only like 2 companies that make them and everyone else just slaps thier name on it...he said the difference is in the quality control units the individual companies have,basically how well they check them and what standards they accept. .thats why some charge more..

SOOOOO ANYONE NEED A CLUTCH...PASS THE WORD..ILL TAKE $200 FOR IT...
 






Also im looking for a auto floor plate for a ranger, dont know if same as a explorer...o and the cup holder consol thingy also..

Anyone have one laying around??
 






I read that about the clutches in the past, and I ordered my Performance clutch from Napa, and the tech said the same thing.
It is the same as the Centerforce equivalent, just less $$.

I was told that there is about 3 Mass gear manufacturers in the world, and only a couple smaller specialty manufacturers in the States. The real difference in them is a 3 cut and a 5 cut. 5 cut is better, stronger and quieter. More cutting passes= less heat= more precision, but higher costs. Yukon, US gear, & Richmond are all 5 cut.

Glad you got it figured out, and can move forward at least.
 






Clutch should be here friday so this weekend its on to try and get EVERYTHING in and double checked..i still need to measure and try to find a new longer 8 rib belt...

One issue i found when comparing the two trannys which according to the drawings on them both,shouldnt be....but the new T5 appears to be about 1.5" longer..on a regular ranger this might not be a issue if it had the 2 piece drive shaft or even if it had the one piece at standard height, there is enough slip to accommodate that..

On mine being lowered and having the one piece aluminum shaft, i dont think im going to have enough slip left afterwards if i install it as is...also my driveshaft is damaged from hitting the bolts in my driveshaft hoop from when my tranny mount broke...soo i need a new driveshaft..

Im dropping it off tomorrow to be re-tubbed and shortened 1.5"...im also going to talk more about possibly going to a 3.5" and thicker wall to gain some clearance in the driveshaft hoop..currently its a 4" driveshaft and pretty thin wall..we need to go over some details and to see the weight difference and the ""critical top speed" differences..

Ill post some pictures of the damaged shaft tomorrow but with all this said i wont be able to break the motor in this weekend even if i get EVERYTHING in and find a belt....probably better so i wont rush and have time to double check everything. .
 






Got the clutch line back today..basically all he did was cut off the disconnect for the 4.0 ranger/explorer and crimped the disconnect for the Mustang on it..he previously made me this SS line when the plastic line melted..
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Didnt get time to drop the driveshaft off today but here are some pictures of the damaged. .
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And here is the very simple solid mount i made, I have solid motor mounts also..i run these in the explorer also and they work just fine..
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Dropped the driveshaft off today and decided to go with the same i have..the cost different and only gaining a 1/4" on either side just couldnt justify it....had him make it 1" shorter..

Finished the intercooler also today and sealed it up..went with 1/2" npt to 3/4" barb which is a straight through fitting with a ID of 1/2"...had him crimp 3/4" heater hose onto the fittings so didnt have to use screw clamps,going to replace all my hoses with the 3/4" heater hose..i used clear hose last time and its gotten hard and brittle..this hose is HUUUGGGEEE compared to the 3/8" hose it had going to it before,should really move some water and not restrict my pump..

Its ON for tomorrow! ! Hopefully i get everything done but belt and obviously the driveshaft,would love to find a belt local and fire it off to check oil pressure and everything before getting thw driveshaft in to break the motor in..

Wish me luck!! :)

Pics...still have bolts in temporary till the rtv drys..
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Well trans is in mostly. ..as expected i had issues with the cross member. .it all goes back to when i made my solid motor mounts,i had a set of explorer mounts laying around when i went to make them so used explorer engine mounts..well it turned out rangers use a different mount on the driverside,passenger is same as explorer..instead of making a new mount i drilled new holes in the engine crossmember..it also caused that mount to sit 3/8" higher,in turn making the motor slightly lopsided. .this wasnt a issue when i had a rubber trans mount as it flexed and the trans crossmember would mount, well it turned into a issuse as it broke the mount and damaged the driveshaft..

Well now that i have a solid trans mount the crossmember is crooked as hell,off by about 3" on either side..that 3/8" the motor is sitting crooked equals about 3" on the outside edges of frame rail...i dont have time to pull the motor mount out right now and make a new solid mount out of a ranger engine mount so i used a axle wedge thats used to adjust the driveshaft angle..it works for now but i got a feeling that 3/8" is going to effect if the supercharger is going to fit now with the larger intercooler..if so ill be making a new motor mount here next week,lets hope it clears..someday ill make a new one no matter what and get ride of the wedge in the trans mount..

But literally i only got the trans in today,nowhere near what i planned to get done..ill know tomorrow if the supercharger fits or not..

Pics of the clutch and flywheel..PS if you got a aluminum flywheel be careful how tight you tq the clutch bolts,im pretty sure i stripped or about stripped one..its got locktight on it and i stopped as soon as it started feeling funny and left it alone,going to send it as is..hopefully that doesnt fail!!!...
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Wedge just didnt work out so i took and marked the angle and cut the trans mount i made..then welded it back together. .
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Cool shifter adaptor!
How come you don't use rubber mounts? They break to easy?
 






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