supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · October 3, 2017

you had mentioned about when it got colder. it wasnt really too warm when i went. maybe 15C. that may be another thing (i know i would have never thought about it). another reason why i wanted to run the smaller tires was i was trying to red line going past the traps, and i was pretty close to. dont want to change the gears in it. would not make for a fun drive if i ever made it down there to run you and the green monster in the 1/4 lol. the 20's will be coming off soon for winter. if both don and i have time and energy i will have to make a few more logs.
also, if i can sell both trucks i have sitting here (the kid said he wants the sport i got, so if we can dump his, he will get that one) i am going to see if the slicks the guy i work with has will fit. if they do, i am going to pick them up.....and open a whole new can of worms with them.

4pointslow · October 4, 2017

You have to keep the front and rear tires the same size if you run in 4WD. = 4 slicks.

vroomzoomboom · October 4, 2017

i think i can get away without running in 4x4 with slicks

Turdle · October 4, 2017

^^ Just a thought with idea--
The front driveline, even when not being used, has significant drag. Enough to make the rear want to walk in front. I have noticed this on snow.

The drag strip is kinda like snow in a way.

so, I suggest if using slicks, pull the front drive shaft for that run. The rotating drive shaft and transfer case mass that will be eliminated surely is worth .05 sec or more. And, it will help to keep the rear end to the rear where it belongs.

And, yeah. I'm still watching and reading this. lol

delexploder · October 4, 2017

Me too

Dono · October 4, 2017

I wanna see at least 1 front tire off the ground.
Tim, can you add mph to your livelink configuration so we can see how fast you are going (Or the pcm thinks your going) when the shift occurs?

Either way, with the smaller tires we need to lower the MPH in the schedule for 1-2 shift at wot.

vroomzoomboom · October 4, 2017

Turdle said:
^^ Just a thought with idea--
The front driveline, even when not being used, has significant drag. Enough to make the rear want to walk in front. I have noticed this on snow.

The drag strip is kinda like snow in a way.

so, I suggest if using slicks, pull the front drive shaft for that run. The rotating drive shaft and transfer case mass that will be eliminated surely is worth .05 sec or more. And, it will help to keep the rear end to the rear where it belongs.

And, yeah. I'm still watching and reading this. lol

good idea! ill even one up you and put haft shafts in the spindles, and yank the front diff and axles

Dono said:
I wanna see at least 1 front tire off the ground.
Tim, can you add mph to your livelink configuration so we can see how fast you are going (Or the pcm thinks your going) when the shift occurs?

Either way, with the smaller tires we need to lower the MPH in the schedule for 1-2 shift at wot.

tell me about it. the pics last year looked sooo close! and yup, i can do that. wont be today, or tomorrow, but when i put the smalls back on.

CDW6212R · October 4, 2017

To lift the front tires at the track, find some drag shocks that will let the front lift faster, and take out the anti-sway bar. That should bring it up for a nice picture.

Dono · October 4, 2017

vroomzoomboom said:
good idea! ill even one up you and put haft shafts in the spindles, and yank the front diff and axles

Ok, now that is way, way to ambitious. Next step is to yank the transfer case, change the tail shaft on your trans, and change drive shafts........

Turdle · October 4, 2017

The internet part of me says yank away Tim, but the friend in me apologizes for creating a list of work.

Internet me " it would be a good 2wd baseline for future 4 wheel slicks runs"
Friend me "go cook dinner and forget about it"

So, what's for dinner?

Dono · October 4, 2017

Friend me, and internet me is amused. I'm having a bad day. lol

vroomzoomboom · October 4, 2017

me - thats a lot of work
inner me - bragging rights to have the wheels hang for that .5 of a second for a glory shot, well worth it
inner inner me - dont be a pussy and head for the 12's

4pointslow · October 4, 2017

Even slicks can loose traction. Especially when it is colder outside and that's when more power is made due to air with more oxygen in it.
There is a reason I still have my automatic 4wd, traction is king and 4 beats 2 any day.
Keep the 4wd, look for other ways to get quicker 1/4 mile times.

4pointslow · October 5, 2017

Your 60 ft times are not far from mine, your are getting out of the hole pretty good.
You need more horse power in the higher RPM range.
I can think of two ways off the top of my head.

1. Open up the supercharger inlet(inlet tube and throttle body), these superchargers are sensitive to inlet restrictions.
What size is your throttle body diameter? Mine is about 4 to 4.5 inches. More air in more boost.
Plenum like the one you sent me(I could send it back to you) and a single blade throttle body that fits it.

2. Centrifugal supercharger. They are more efficient so more boost less heat.
Also you have a 347 stroker, they make tons of torque at lower rpms, using a centrifugal supercharger would give you more boost at higher rpms.

vroomzoomboom · October 6, 2017

the difference between my 60 foot, and yours is your doing it with over 1.5L in displacement and 2 less 6 cylinders, how is that fair?????
the throttle body is 75mm. going off what i posted in the first page, cause even i couldnt remember how big the inlet tube was, its 3 1/2, which is also the side of the intake opening on the supercharger. the elbow is yours, i can use it. it hits the heater box.
i know i will never find a a centrifugal supercharger for this thing, and if i did, it would take major fab work to the brackets. i am also not sure if the pulley for the crank would be happy on a short explorer front dress as well.
side note. this thing cant make its mind up on what it wants to do. went for a ride to don's tonight. going home, i punch it, and going into second gear, hits the limiter again. this time with the 20's on it. so now i want to see if it would do it again. get a red light, one again punch it. this time it doesnt do it. this thing has a mind of its own most days

4pointslow · October 6, 2017

I hope it is not the transmission slipping. I wonder what clutches hold for second in that transmission.
Hopefully just need a transmission tune adjustment.
Take 4 MPH off the top number in the 1-2 shift table and see what is does.

CDW6212R · October 6, 2017

4pointslow said:
I hope it is not the transmission slipping. I wonder what clutches hold for second in that transmission.
Hopefully just need a transmission tune adjustment.
Take 4 MPH off the top number in the 1-2 shift table and see what is does.

The 4R70W uses the large intermediate clutches for 2nd, the four right behind the pump. The forward drum runs in most gears, which is next in line, and the only aftermarket drum available.

4pointslow · October 6, 2017

They are probably much stronger than the 5R55E/S then, the 5R55E/S use a band.

vroomzoomboom · October 6, 2017

im going to say tune. fluid doesnt smell or look burnt. that and i shot a qwck vid and sent it to the bandits in TX just for a little dig lol. i never noticed until now how fast the rpms come up in first going into second

vroomzoomboom · December 31, 2017

so yesterday it was -30C. what better time to take evil for a drive!

well, for a drive after having to charge the stone dead battery for a day, and also leaving it plugged in for the same about of time as well. havent drove it since the beginning of november. its just been doing its best impression of igloo since. the odd thing i noticed when i was driving it was if you made the motor work, you could hear it ping. thought that was weird because you would think with all that cold air coming in, it would love that. not going to worry about it right now. for the amount it gets drove in the winter time its not worth the headache bugging don to look over the datalog.
i have been tossing around the idea of pulling the motor again. having less then desired oil pressure is still kinda bugging me. that and also possibly changing the lifters i just replaced in the spring to link bar lifters. the guy who balanced the crank for me has a set up that he can spin the motor from the crank, but not have the motor under its own power. the reason why i mention this is that to me the valvetrain is still on the loud side. i wanted to possibly get him to set it up on his jig, and check it over for me. this way, if there is something wrong, he will see it. this all of coarse will only happen if my buddy gord has nothing in his shop, and i can leave evil in there heartless for a month or two.
just thinking out loud folks.

supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

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