M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy so let the fun begin.


UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)

VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)

Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!

and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY

 

[jd4242]

Do you think you might need a voltage driver for the pump? Just for conversation sake, could the PCM output volatge be too low for what you need to maintain pressure?

Just to be safe and so i know..how would i double check this?? Im going to have the tank out to replace the pump so now would be time to just double check EVERYTHING. .

 

[Turdle]

Just to be safe and so i know..how would i double check this?? Im going to have the tank out to replace the pump so now would be time to just double check EVERYTHING. .

If you think you have the flow part of the equation sorted, and if the voltage from the PCM is pegged and fuel starvation still occurs.
I think some guys go to a 16v system to overdrive the fuel pump.

 

[Turdle]

I hate spending your money like this, but

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VzB6GCh0Q1whcEAQYASABEgJlgvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think aeromotive makes one also which advertises controlling the fuel pump to 100% duty cycle.

Again, this is for conversation with your tuner. I might be way off base.

 

[jd4242]

If you think you have the flow part of the equation sorted, and if the voltage from the PCM is pegged and fuel starvation still occurs.
I think some guys go to a 16v system to overdrive the fuel pump.

Well i know alot will turn the pressure up also..

How exactly does the ecm control the pump on a obd1 system? ? Is it variable? I kindof was under the impression the pump just ran full open all the time (whatever voltage im producing) and the regulator just adjusted pressure. ..

 

[Turdle]

It might be interesting to monitor the fuel pump signal voltage while driving-making a street pull.

 

[jd4242]

Well more issues now..got a exhaust manifold leak..the gaskets has become brittle and blown out in some places..knew i should've stuck with the metal gaskets. ..its going to be a PIA to change them out and i also have stage 8 locking bolts on them..

 

[CDW6212R]

The fuel pumps do run on full voltage for pre-99 Fords. The bigger pumps though take more current, which can push the limits of the stock wiring, depending on how big the pump is. Stock is what, 80lt/hr volume, so 255-340 is a good bit bigger. I haven't read enough about cars with over 255lt/hr pumps, which do okay with stock wiring.

I'd check the voltage at the rear pump wiring, while the truck is running. That might tell you enough to say that it's okay, or needs more wiring.

I like the HFP pumps because they promise to last a lifetime, and have kits for the Explorer. I bought two of these recently and plan to make two fit inside my 98's tank; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NTOCQM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BTW, for a filter, here's the best deal I found for an external unit that should cover my needs. I didn't check about E85 compatibility, or if it's good for serious high HP racing. But it's a nice large aluminum unit with a large filter, available with different fine screens.
(dead link)

 

[jd4242]

Well i went with a fuelab 51502 regulator, summit 230123 filter and TRE 340-HF..also got my fan for the IC and header gaskets. ..going to try and tackle it all this weekend

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...9he2q5jbkPm28FwpiyBm1kirHrUGGBCBoC5-sQAvD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230123

https://treperformance.com/i-122993...-3-and-cobra-340-lph-fuel-pump-1985-1995.html

 

[jd4242]

Whats left of them..they crumbled and fell apart when i took the headers off...

 

[jd4242]

Mannnn i had a cut in the vacuum/boost line going to the pressure regulator...replaced the line and it works fine now..

But i went ahead and replaced the regulator,pump and filter..

The manifold gaskets fixed the leak also..workn on mounting my IC fan now..

Looks safe right..lol

Filters were pretty dirty also..

 

[jd4242]

Well the fuel pressure definitely rises when you gas it(vacuum drops) but cant tell obviously what its doing when WOT and boost kicks in but as far as the wideband is reading its doing the same thing it was doing on the dyno..

You go WOT and gauge jumps to like 10.5-11 for like 2 seconds then slowly crawls up leaner and leaner..i did 2 pulls tonight and had to let off around 10psi because it was getting up to about 15..obviously its not tuned but something is causing it to go lean and seriously doubt it fuel pressure or flow now...personally i think he has the open loop programed wrong..every time it goes into open loop it seems to go lean...

 

[4pointslow]

If your fuel pressure doesn't rise with boost then it will run lean.
Boost and fuel pressure are both measured in psi, so for every 1 psi of boost the fuel pressure should rise 1 psi.
Make sure you have the regulator hooked up to a vacuum/boost hose.

Vehicles always start in open loop, that means it is ignoring the O2 sensors and running off the base fuel tables with no correction.
When they go into closed loop the PCM corrects for things based off the O2 sensor readings.

What did you mean by you can not tell what fuel pressure is doing at WOT? Is the gauge under the hood?

 

[jd4242]

If your fuel pressure doesn't rise with boost then it will run lean.
Boost and fuel pressure are both measured in psi, so for every 1 psi of boost the fuel pressure should rise 1 psi.
Make sure you have the regulator hooked up to a vacuum/boost hose.

Vehicles always start in open loop, that means it is ignoring the O2 sensors and running off the base fuel tables with no correction.
When they go into closed loop the PCM corrects for things based off the O2 sensor readings.

What did you mean by you can not tell what fuel pressure is doing at WOT? Is the gauge under the hood?

It does rise as vacuum decreases. .yes the gauge is on the fuel rail..before it wasn't rising at all anytime..

Wot it goes into open loop right??

 

[jd4242]

Dyno tune rescheduled for nov 9 right before my birthday..

 

[jd4242]

Well add another issue to the list,water pump just started leaking out the hole

 

[4pointslow]

Yes at wot it does go into open loop, 70% throttle and up should force it into open loop.
Also open loop when cold or first started.

Damn water pumps! Hope you get that leak stopped up quickly.

 

[jd4242]

Yes at wot it does go into open loop, 70% throttle and up should force it into open loop.
Also open loop when cold or first started.

Damn water pumps! Hope you get that leak stopped up quickly.

Played with it today and right about 70% throttle is when it goes lean..i cant really tell on cold starts because i think it takes a couple seconds for my wideband to start reading right then i can hear it switch from open to closed..it goes lean for about 20 seconds then starts jumping from about 14-15ish..i just think it needs the tune adjusted now,the pressure seems to be good..i will say when he adjusted it last time on dyno for My ethanol change,i had about e75 in it and now i have e83 so that might be why its off also..previous tune was for e50,i still had about 6 gallons of e50 in the tank when i topped it off with e83ish so it gave me around e75

Water pump should be pretty easy..

 

[jd4242]

So this happened today..luckily my buddies shop was right around the corner and had a spare pulley..

 

[CDW6212R]

Ouch, I hope it's okay, I know the belt isn't cheap either. What idler do have there, and have you looked at stronger alternatives?

I recall a lot of discussion in a thread on the Corral, a guy with a big blower on a 363 I think it was, in an 80's LTD.

 

[boominXplorer]

The tensioner idler is actually the same between the early ohv to the v8. We found this out this morning searching though all my spare junk. I think his issue was it was an aftermarket pulley with a very tight belt and it was the weakest point. I bet belt tightness has contributed to making the water pump angry also.