Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from www.Bansheesuperchargerkit.com
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

Pictures
1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
5.Wheelie

 

[vroomzoomboom]

What happened to yours or are you working on something behind the scenes?

.....i plead the 5th.......

 

[CDW6212R]

Sorry, no snouts laying around.
What happened to yours or are you working on something behind the scenes?

If I had time to make things look pretty, Turdle would be my first choice. I have seen the work he does and it looks amazing.
Maybe in the future I will work on prettying up the engine compartment.
For now I have a deadline, I really want to have it race ready by 11/24 for AtcoRaceways black Friday event.

I am a little concerned that I might not make that deadline, and racing days are coming to an end by December at the latest.
Anyone ever degree cams in a 4.0 sohc with a degree wheel? I have not even figured out how to attach the wheel to the crank yet.

I hope I'm able to degree my SOHC with a degree wheel in a couple of weeks also. I'm not sure where my degree wheel is though.

I thought about locating the wheel with some kind of extra long crank bolt, with spacers. But the normal way with the balancer off is ideal. Mount the wheel to the crank with the crank bolt, and use a piston stop to locate TDC.

 

[ahodges]

I really like VHT engine enamel. I've had great luck with that. I can't wait to see the results.

 

[4pointslow]

Just my luck, the other day I was at Advance Auto and they had everything but Ford grey engine paint, it was out of stock.
I will look for VHT, maybe I can find some at PepBoys or something.

The school I work at has a class where one lab task is to degree a Chevy 350 camshaft. I checked out their tools and set up and thought it was really cool.
They use a crankshaft snout socket, it has a keyway and a set screw to keep it tight. There is a 1/2 inch square hole for a breaker bar, and a threaded ring that holds the degree wheel in place.

I ordered a kit for the 5.0 Coyote engine because it was close to the same size snout as the 4.0 SOHC. The sad thing is the degree wheel adaptor/snout socket wont work unless I have the keyway enlarged or have a custom stepped key made.(might look into that later)
On top of that I don't want to remove the crank pulley because it doesn't have to come off to replace the heads and cams.( I am just lazy that way)
I am thinking about trying to install the wheel on the crank pulley using the two holes for pulling the pulley off. I am replacing the water pump with a Motorcraft one so that will be out of the way.
If I drill two holes in the degree wheel and bolt it tight to the crank pulley it just may work. the center hole in the wheel will let me put a socket on the crank bolt to spin the engine back and forth.

With these reground cams they say to use sleeve adhesive on the bolt threads (I take that to mean red thread locker).
But in the beginning I will have to put it together without thread locker, check to see if the timing alignment tools get the cams in the right place.
Then after checking the setup with the degree wheel, make a mark on the cam/sprocket, loosen it up to put thread locker on and then torque it to specs.
I better not drink alcohol until after the cams are set correctly, lol.

 

[4pointslow]

The kit also came with a piston stop and I checked it and it fits the 4.0 sohc.
I plan to mark the crank pulley at TDC when I have the heads off, and then check it again with the heads back on using the piston stop.
Then I will install the degree wheel and make a pointer to sit at the TDC mark on the wheel.
The cams I am using get set to 112, cant remember how it is stated but I will post pictures of the cam cards later.

 

[4pointslow]

Here is a picture that Tom from SuperSix Motorsports sent me.
He is very helpful and very knowledgeable. I wish I could move down there and work with him for a couple of years to learn from him.
But unfortunately I can not just pick up and move. lol.
I have my dreams though.

 

[CDW6212R]

I like that black engine color too. I prefer the grey for a stock or intended mild combination. The black is great for a hot engine, for good contrast of colors etc, like that red against it.

 

[4pointslow]

Cam Specs
Passenger side

 

[4pointslow]

Cylinder Head
Passenger Side

 

[4pointslow]

Got one side on, had to stop for the night since it got so cold here.
Last weekend when I pulled the engine it was nice out, not today.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice, and I like those straight intake ports. That's part of how the SOHC 4.0 makes such good power.

Question, what tool do you use for the rear main seal? I ask because I saw a reference to use a tool that is made for a Probe. I didn't buy that individual tool, which was $62ish on eBay, but I found the whole kit for $33. I figured it was worth the risk, it has a couple of other useful tools also, a breakout box for the PCM, and an AC clutch removal tool etc.

Stay warm there, wear gloves too, it helps.

 

[4pointslow]

LOL, rear main seal.
I tried to purchase the Ford tool a couple years ago, I found a kit but turned out to have missing parts.
I found out too late because I was at the point of putting the truck back together and didn't have time to wait for more shipping and handling.
So I found a spay paint can CAP. The plastic cap was just the right size and I was able to push the seal in with it.

In the past I have used various sized sockets, exhaust pipe, and even PVC pipe as seal installers.
I do have the tool for the front seal and it works like a charm, maybe one day I will get the rear one.
I would really like to have a 104 pin breakout box for the PCM, they make testing so much easier when it comes to getting voltages etc.

 

[Dono]

Looking at the cam specs, they still look super mild.The resulting overlap of 116 would keep the compression right up there and give You a nice idle. I can't see emissions issues here either. I can hardly wait for you to get it running and start posting your thoughts.

 

[4pointslow]

I cant wait either! I really hope to have it done and ready ro race by 11/24.

Here is the drivers side cam card.
This bolt in the front of the head did not want to go in all the way, had to add an extra washer.
It is for the chain guide.
Tried cleaning out the hole but it seemed that the bolt was bottoming out.
The washer did the trick.

 

[4pointslow]

I got the other head on, and finished timing the engine with the factory tools today.

 

[4pointslow]

I drilled two holes in the cam degree wheel to install it to the crank pulley.
Also found a long bolt and some spacers to attach the pointer, I bent the pointer to make it work this way.
I was able to stick an extension and 19mm socket through the center hole to turn the crankshaft.
Almost forgot to mention, the bolt holding the pointer on is a thermostat housing bolt for the 4.0 sohc. It was the longest 6mm bolt I could find.

 

[4pointslow]

I never used a degree wheel before so I had fun learning how to do it.
Bank one went perfect.
At .050 before max lift the readings was 77.
At .050 after max lift the reading was 150
added together 227 then divide by two and I got 113.5
It is acceptable but I may change it to get it closer to 112.
If the reading is higher like mine, it is said that the camshaft is retarded.

When I went to do bank two I had a brain fart and hooked up the dial indicator to cylinder 4 instead of 5.
After getting really messed up readings I finally called Tom Yentzer at supersix motorsports and a couple of seconds into the conversation I realized I was on the wrong cylinder. I cant believe I did that, I know which cylinders are what and I wasn't even drinking.
To my defense it was a very cold 40F today, so I blame it on the cold.
I got the other side checked and it was 116, after two tries I got it to 114.
I may try to get it closer to 112.
I will be trying something else out that Tom suggested, bolting the shim plate to the back of the engine so I can install the starter and do a compression test on the engine stand. We will see how that goes tomorrow.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

and you didnt paint the block!!!!!!
lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are great pictures, love the details.

 

[4pointslow]

and you didnt paint the block!!!!!!
lol

They didn't have grey so I gave up.
I can see leaking fluids on grey and rust, that's why I don't want black or another color.
It is probably too cold to paint now anyway, the other night it dropped down to 20F and the highs have been 40F.
LOL.
You should see the inside of my engine, looks like new. Even the coolant passages are spotless, no rust or corrosion.
If I reach my goals this year then maybe next year I will work on making everything look pretty......