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Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from www.Bansheesuperchargerkit.com
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

Pictures
1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
5.Wheelie
green ex.jpg
DSC02710.JPG
5.JPG
Lowered Rear.jpg
Exploder wheelie.jpg
 



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I love how you got it looking so beautiful and a Sleeper. No one would guess a 13 sec truck looking at it. Awesome job sir.
 



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Thanks!
 






Overdriven supercharger is back on!
Put a new Optima Battery in too, old one was dying a slow death.

IMG_1569.JPG
 






The superchargers are both Eaton M122's, I have heard them refered to as H122's.
They are off the GT500's up to 2012 so they are not the Eaton TVS style as that came out in 2013.
I don't know the rpm range for the stock one but I was told not to exceed 19,000 RPM on the overdriven one.
I don't know if that was the rotor speed or pulley speed so lets say rotor speed for safety of the SC.

I cant remember my exact crank pulley size off the top of my head but say around 6 inches.
Last night I was using stock SC with 2.7 pulley so...
6/2.7 =2.22 * 6250 = 13888

Overdriven Supercharger supposed to have aprox 1.33 overdrive If I recall.
6/3.3 = 1.82 * 6250 = 11375 * 1.33(overdrive) = 15128
If I go with 3.1 inch pulley
6/3.1 = 1.94 * 6250 = 12125 * 1.33 = 16126
If I get a 3 inch pulley
6/3 = 2 * 6250 = 12500 * 1.33 = 16625

Just for reference I would like to add it was 59 Degrees last night and the pressure was 30.1 according to my iphone6s.

Thanks, those rpm numbers sound good/reasonable. I've heard the KB is a 18k top end blower, and some run them under 15k, others push their luck at 20k+. I'd like to keep mine under 15k also, to not have to get it rebuilt while I own it. The old KB's don't have any replacement parts left, just used units turning up occasionally. I spoke with Jon Bond for a few minutes last week. He said avoid used KB's if they may not be solid, there was(still is) a used 2400 on eBay with rough rotors.
 






Ok, the suspense is killing me.
Atco raceway conditions looked ok today (At least that's what the internet tells me, lol).

I'm sooo curious. Something had to be holding your truck back.
 






13.20 best run today too.
As a matter of fact, tried 3 different pulleys, ran 13.20 each time. WTH!
Truck is messing with me!
Going back tomorrow, Atco Race track opens at 9am again.
 






I simply don't understand
 






Keep digging, you'll figure it out I'm sure.
 












I swear I am going nuts.
When I was racing I was looking at the boost gauge I swear I saw 16lbs on my first run with 3.3 pulley and overdriven supercharger.
Same as the 2.7 on stock SC.
I thought ok, more flow less boost showing up, makes sense.
What doesn't make sense is the truck is not faster, WTH?

3.2 I thought I saw 17psi and 3.1 I thought I saw 18.
Now going back to try to see the boost gauge in the videos I am not sure.
The lighting was messed up because it was day time, at night you can see the gauge better because it is lit up.

Also keep in mind that at some point more boost doesn't increase power, just heats up the air.
Maybe I am at that point already at 16psi?

I saw 856 maf counts with the stock supercharger, and I swear I saw 860 something yesterday but forgot to download the datalogs to my jump drive.
I will do that today for comparison.
Maybe I will try running with the parking lights on in the daytime to see if the boost gauge is more visible.

I still need to play with timing and shift points, maybe I can do that today if I can get enough runs in.
Only got 4 runs in yesterday it was so crowded and there was track clean up after clean up. (one wreck and a couple engine failures I heard).
 






Here are screen shots from the videos, near the end of the 1/4 mile.
Keep in mind rpm effects this a little too.
Pics..
1 = 3.3 pulley
2 = 3.2 pulley
3 = 3.1 pulley
Looks like 17,18, and 19 psi

3pt3 pulley.jpg
3pt2 pulley.jpg
3pt1 pulley.jpg
 






I am left lane.

IMG_1585.JPG
 






That's what we were waiting for!!!
Do you have any idea what was holding you back?
 






I added some timing, that may have helped but not sure because weather conditions were changing all day.
It actually warmed up to 62F and that's around where I ran that time slip.
My previous best was in 40F weather?
Nothing made sense today, it was 32 degrees last week and went up to 62 today, WTH?

Some other things to mention.
Since the 3.2 and 3.1 pulleys raised boost but did not give me quicker 1/4 mile times, I think I finally realized my sweet spot with boost.
Any more and it just heats up the air.
I could never find that point before.
The boost dropped from pinning a little past 20, to around 16-17 with the heads and cams. And my maf counts went a little higher.
So the heads and cams are doing something for flow through the engine. I now need to work on getting intake air temps as low as possible and move timing up.

I hit rev limiter a few times today. Got fed up with it and said time to raise the rev limiter from 6250 to 6500.
Never hit rev limiter again.
Something new happened though. The shift points seemed to all align up to about 6,000 and if the shift didn't happen fast enough timing was pulled.
The timing being pulled cut power big time. But it was not the rev limiter. A way different feel. Just a major drop in power, no cylinder drop outs.
It happened real bad once between 3-4. Smooth but major drop out in power.
So in my tune there is a place for rpm shifts in the shift schedule section, I think I was hitting those points and that was causing the timing to be retarded to cut power. This gives me a little more understanding on which tables to change when I feel either condition. I might be able to play with these numbers to get things working better.
The other thing I noticed was when the timing was retarded to cut power, the rpm had a major false reading in it. went up to like 16,000. Very unrealistic number.
I know the PCM can put false data into the pids because I see it and teach it at work. With O2 sensors if the PCM can not get the O2 sensors cross counting they often put in false values to drive fuel trims the other direction to see what happens. When that doesn't work it goes back to the real readings and eventually the PCM will go into open loop.
Also with coolant temp sensors I have seem multiple times when the PCM put the intake air temp readings into the coolant temp readings when the coolant temp sensor went open (circuit or component).
So all this makes me believe that the 16,000 rpms is just false data the PCM is putting in the data stream to control things.


Today I added 2 degrees timing, then 2 more, then 2 more, then 2 more and detonation finally showed up.
So I removed 2 and thought it would be ok.... But it detonated again and I had to remove 2 more. Then no more detonation.
So I was running a total of 24 degrees timing. I think stock is 28.
I also think I am too close to detonation with intake air temps going to high.
But what is too high? Especially on a highly modified set up with water methanol injection and a liquid intercooler.
I will spend more time looking at the data, and plan to modify my intercooler system if possible.
Maybe I can even get a bigger jet for the water methanol system.

I lowered the shift points for 1-2,2-3,and 3-4 by 4mph each and my next run was 13.032
So that may not have been the right move with shift points.
I need to try raising shift points now.

My head is spinning with all this information and the weird things that happened today.
Atco said they were not opening tomorrow, which sucks because I was going to experiment with shift points.
Maybe they will be open next weekend.
 






So the reduced boost readings were completely expected.
Maybe the reduced boost pressure lowered iat's, and allowed more timing?

Its funny, I found as temps dove I had more detonation issues here. I thought that this was because of the fuel changing to a winter blend at the pumps (More ethanol I believe),

Sounds like it was a great day today.
 






Excellent, that sounds like the kind of details it takes to massage the tune and boost(pulley) to hit the best time.
 






Might go to Cecil County Drag Way in Maryland tomorrow.
See how I feel when I wake up. Gates open at 8:00am
I want to test out a colder spark plug to see if I can get some more spark advance.
Going with Spark Plugs NGK BR7EF-VPOWER 3346
.030 Gap

Put them in tonight so tomorrow I just got to fill up with 93 Octane and head out.
If I don't make it there tomorrow then Atco Raceway on Sunday.
 






Might go to Cecil County Drag Way in Maryland tomorrow.
See how I feel when I wake up. Gates open at 8:00am
I want to test out a colder spark plug to see if I can get some more spark advance.
Going with Spark Plugs NGK BR7EF-VPOWER 3346
.030 Gap

Put them in tonight so tomorrow I just got to fill up with 93 Octane and head out.
If I don't make it there tomorrow then Atco Raceway on Sunday.
What did you run before?? I run a Br6ef ..i got fouling on br7ef,probably because of e85..i ran tr6 for years but needed a non projectile tip ..the br6ef are same temps as tr6,one step colder than stock..
 






I have been running TR6's for years. They worked great but I want to test these out just for experimenting with spark advance.
They are 2 steps colder and recessed like you said.
I saw no benefit from them years ago but different heads and cams so time to retest.

What gap do you run?
 



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I have been running TR6's for years. They worked great but I want to test these out just for experimenting with spark advance.
They are 2 steps colder and recessed like you said.
I saw no benefit from them years ago but different heads and cams so time to retest.

What gap do you run?
.032

If they give you issues for being too cold try the br6ef..being recessed they still will give you detonation protection but not as cold,definitely better for daily use also
 






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