Brake shoe and diff fluids..... | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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If you get the machinist set of the size of the size you need they come with starter, intermediate and finish tap. (I.E Flat bottom)
 



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Sorry all. I don't know if admin is waiting to label this solved. Got everything buttoned up after hunting down a cheap drill pump to fill the diff with. Finished late and was feeling Crap and ended up in bed for a few with f****ng strep throat. Haven't had a chance to take it for a rip yet. I'll update as soon as I do and it's confirmed the brake shoe rubbing on the drum was in fact due to diff fluid leaking on to the shoe causing swelling enough to touch drum.
IB47
 






Cool.

Get better soon.

Kinda of a PIMA to bust your butt to get your rig fixed and then get sick.
 






Cool.

Get better soon.

Kinda of a PIMA to bust your butt to get your rig fixed and then get sick.

No doubt. If I ain't fixing the exploder I'm fxing something else. Just glad I got it done before the 40+mm that has happened each day since. Even my undercover area has a river running through it now. Right where I was laying to pump the diff fluid in. Good timing!
 






Just have a need to respond. Thank You all for guiding me through this as I'm in the same boat as itchybruno in many ways. I'm in SE Alaska with a new to me '94 Navajo with LR brake grabbing. Haven't looked at it yet, but all things point to the dreaded seal.
Couple of feet of snow on the ground (lots more coming) and really wanted to know if I could make it through to spring. Don't do any long distance stuff only 10mile to town. Seems to lock up at first then rolls fine after that although I drive with that in mind.
I don't want to hijack this thread and if moderator finds it so, please move it or advise and I'll start a new one.
Mileage 146K
 






Just have a need to respond. Thank You all for guiding me through this as I'm in the same boat as itchybruno in many ways. I'm in SE Alaska with a new to me '94 Navajo with LR brake grabbing. Haven't looked at it yet, but all things point to the dreaded seal.
Couple of feet of snow on the ground (lots more coming) and really wanted to know if I could make it through to spring. Don't do any long distance stuff only 10mile to town. Seems to lock up at first then rolls fine after that although I drive with that in mind.
I don't want to hijack this thread and if moderator finds it so, please move it or advise and I'll start a new one.
Mileage 146K

Welcome to the struggle.
First question.
You have disc or drums on the rear?
 






Youkk know it's the seal as you will have a very obvious mess of differential gear oil throughout your brake assembly. It smells like the devils bunghole too.

Mine was a constantt rubbing. And it was only the rear shoe as when you're driving you mostly Dr forward so when the gear oil leak out of my seal it was spun up to the rear shoe first. I had no friction or sticking in reverse.

Jack your truck up and see if there is any binding with no load on the tire in question. Feel your rotor or drum after driving. Is it hotter than the other side? If not you may just have a grabby parking break that needs adjustment or in the case of disc brakes on the rear a sticky caliper.
If you have disc brakes it could still be a grabby out of adjustment e brake as you will most likely have brake shoes on the inside of the rotor.

A seal leak is very obvious. Andnif that's what it is the process sounds much worse than it actually is. The weather is what made it **** for me. And the fact that I always psyche my self out and make it worse in my head than its going to be. Replacing a blown frost plug was way worse than this. Work wise. Cost wise it was 79 cents for the plug and some welding and improvisng to make a special long handled punch tool to get the new plug in place without having to pull the engine.
No matter what the issue of you list3n to what the forum guys say you'll get through it. I've gotten stuck a few times and always manage to get through the **** of I call on the forum for advice.

That being said let me know if you need info or help. In down to pay it forward for the helpni get when I ask around here.
Cheers.
IB47
 






Welcome to the struggle.
First question.
You have disc or drums on the rear?
Darn ya got me right off, dark now as I just got through blowing s_ow (4 letter word). Would be good if it's brakes, but not counting on it. I'll check and get back tomorrow.
Sure 'nuf appreciate the come back, good to have back up!!
BTW, this is one of the best forums as I've used it quite a bit for searching threads as I fix the wife's '97 Exploder too.
 






Darn ya got me right off, dark now as I just got through blowing s_ow (4 letter word). Would be good if it's brakes, but not counting on it. I'll check and get back tomorrow.
Sure 'nuf appreciate the come back, good to have back up!!
BTW, this is one of the best forums as I've used it quite a bit for searching threads as I fix the wife's '97 Exploder too.

Always count on it being the worst and then its all uphill from there. Either you're stoked cause you were right or stoked cause you are wrong and it's not as bad as you thought!
Happy to help mate.
Cheers.
 






That works.

I hope my Mercury only has plugged up cats, but I'm expecting it to be the engine internals. I'll swap the cats soon and see how that works.
 






That works.

I hope my Mercury only has plugged up cats, but I'm expecting it to be the engine internals. I'll swap the cats soon and see how that works.
I took a grinder to my '87 Bronco that had plugged cats, worked fine...eh can't hear ya. 'course we don't have reg's here.
Always count on it being the worst and then its all uphill from there. Either you're stoked cause you were right or stoked cause you are wrong and it's not as bad as you thought!
Happy to help mate.
Cheers.
Yup, that's my way too works for me.
 






So. Update and a question.
The leaking seal deffo caused the overheating brake issue.
Brakes ran even temps after I replaced that seal.
But.....brand new seal is already leaking again. Which of course has gotten on the shoes and is overheating again due to f***ing swollen brake shoe again.
So my question is of course what the hell caused the new seal to fail already?

Cleaned everything up nor before reassembly.
Bearings and axle has no play whatsoever when I have it sitting on frame and try to wiggle the tire as you would to find a sloppy bearing.
Used the wood block and hammer to gently seat the new seal. No damage to seal when installed.

Could an axle shaft just be worn at the point where the seal runs that it actually lets fluid by eve with a brand new seal?

Advice and opinions greatly appreciated. Super frustrated now.
Christmas break is looking like imma be working on the exploder. Deffo not wanting a white Christmas at this point!

Thanks ahead gang.
IB47
 






Could an axle shaft just be worn at the point where the seal runs that it actually lets fluid by eve with a brand new seal?

Yes it can.

Of course you did "Wet" the seal with a little oil or diff fluid before you put the shaft back in place?
 






The axle should not be worn or it will leak immediately of sooner. A groove in the axle will let the seal have a larger gap at the bottom than normal. How did the axle look again?
 






The axle should not be worn or it will leak immediately of sooner. A groove in the axle will let the seal have a larger gap at the bottom than normal. How did the axle look again?
Yes it can.

Of course you did "Wet" the seal with a little oil or diff fluid before you put the shaft back in place?
I did not. Which seems really stupid now that I think about it. Every seal I've ever replaced gets a gob of something smeared on it. Why shouldn't this one. Stupid of me.

The axle itself was fairly ugly but I didn't think ugly enough to be letting gear oil past a new seal. This stuff is made to get in every little crack though. Looks like I'm headed to pick a part again. Ill pull axle shafts until I find a pretty one. Gonna hit Lordco first and see what kinda deal they can give me on new ones.

Thanks again guys. I'll update as I go.
Cheers
IB47
 






Questions:

1) brake cleaner...can it wreck an axle seal / wheel bearing seal? (outer axle seal)

B) right hand side (passenger) rear brake shoes. Larger (longer) shoe is the rear shoe and smaller (shorter) shoe is the forward shoe. Correct?
 






Both sides should be the same.

Longer shoe always goes to the back and the shorter shoe always goes to the front.
 






Questions:

1) brake cleaner...can it wreck an axle seal / wheel bearing seal? (outer axle seal)

Possible. You would have to use a bunch and let it really soak on the seal In My opinion.
 






Can anyone verify this? Never heard of it before...
Pulled from a how to re and re drum bake shoes on a 92 explorer:

8. You do not need any special tool to adjust the brakes. When you put the new shoes on, move the adjusters all the way in, so that the brake shoes are as close together as they can get (with all the parts in place). Self-adjust by backing up the vehicle, and pumping the brake pedal as you reverse. Each time you hit the pedal, you will jack up the adjuster screw one click. Don't overdo it. They'll automatically adjust as you drive.....


How would this not lead to overadjuated brakes if every time you back up and hit the brakes they adjust tighter?
 



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Possible. You would have to use a bunch and let it really soak on the seal In My opinion.

Thanks. I figured as much but thought id ask. I'm just blasting it and gravity is doing its thing so nothing is getting soaked.
 






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