Dana 35 front pumpkin removal

[mhaller69]

To clarify my previous post, I want to install a powertrax locker in my front axle a Dana35 TTB unit. I want to know if I can pull just the pumpkin, not the whole axle assemby.

 

[Maniak]

There are a couple gotchas you may not notice by just looking at when pulling the front diff.

The short axle (driver side) will just pull out once you pull the spindle off.
The long axle (passenger side) is held into the diff by a c-clip (actually, its an e-clip).
The long axle will split (pull apart) at the boot in the middle. I just cut one of the clamps off the boot pull the spindle and pull the outside part of the axle out.
You can't pull the pig straight back since there is a vertical bolt on the driver side back of the diff. You can't pull that vertical bolt out with the Radius arm in its normal position as the RA covers the bolt some.

I've pulled a front diff out 3 times in the last few months.
The First time I had no Radius arms or springs so everything was hanging down far enough that I could pivot the pig on that vertical bolt and the long side axle that was still connected cleared things.

2nd time was in junk yard (2 weeks ago). It was a little more work. We pulled the RA nuts off and took off the sway bars and took the springs off. Things were hanging far enough that we could push the RA out of the way again and pivot things like we did the 1st time.

Last week Pulled one off the parts truck. We just dropped the entire front end by pulling the RA nuts off, removing the axle pivot bolts and then loosening (not removing) the bolt that holds the spring so we could turn the spring out of its upper mount. Once on the ground we pushed the RA out of the way, pulled the vertical bolt along with the others and just pulled the diff straight out.

BTW.. 2 of those we pulled had never been opened (as far as we can tell). Both had red rtv looking stuff holding the diff in which seems to hold pretty good.

While your in there, might as well do the c-clip (e-clip) eliminator. That way if you ever break something on the long axle you can easily take it out.

This thread has info on pulling the diff and for c-clip eliminator.

btw.. were you trying to post a "reply" to one of your threads? If so, let me know and I'll combine them.

~Mark

 

[Tbars4]

...Here's the link Maniak had mentioned...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256302&highlight=eliminator


...Post #5 of that thread has some removal information...

 

[Maniak]

...Here's the link Maniak had mentioned...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256302&highlight=eliminator


...Post #5 of that thread has some removal information...

Whoops. I must have goofed the copy/paste on the URL.

~Mark

 

[gogogsr]

pumpkin removed without removing entire front end

I managed to remove the pumpkin without removing any of the front end components. I removed the pivot bolt of the Traction Beam which the pumpkin is bolted on. Then removed the vertical pivot bolt the holds the pumpkin in place, i actually broke the head off to make it pass all the way. Pry the traction beam on the pivot and wedge a piece of 2x4 between the beam and the bracket, that way you'll have enough room to move the pumpkin.

 

[pimtool]

it doesnt hurt to notch the rad arm where the head of that bolt is and trim the little aluminum piece that wraps around that bolt so you can pull it out without completley removing that bolt.

 

[4x4junkie]

it doesnt hurt to notch the rad arm where the head of that bolt is and trim the little aluminum piece that wraps around that bolt so you can pull it out without completley removing that bolt.

Yeah it does... It creates a stress riser in the notch, which could cause the arm to crack & fail.

Better would be to grind the bolt head flat on one side so that it is "D"-shaped, then you should be able to wiggle the bolt out past the radius arm. Reinstall the bolt from below, there's a bit more room for it in that direction.

 

[tweakedlogic]

Good info guys. I'm about to do the same thing. got the gears and e clip eliminator ect. I've been dragging my heels hoping I can afford a locker. but winter is coming and I need 4wd again. I think I'll do this over the week end.

Again, good info. I've search too, but everything was spread across several threads. I like it in one spot.

 

[jd4242]

I just did this last sat.its easiest just to remove the driverside arm for sure.i did gears and an aussie locker all in one day.but i had a spare pig with the gears and aussie set up in it all ready so i could just swap them.put new ujoints in wile you have it out.

 

[jacob hurst]

There are a couple gotchas you may not notice by just looking at when pulling the front diff.

The short axle (driver side) will just pull out once you pull the spindle off.
The long axle (passenger side) is held into the diff by a c-clip (actually, its an e-clip).
The long axle will split (pull apart) at the boot in the middle. I just cut one of the clamps off the boot pull the spindle and pull the outside part of the axle out.
You can't pull the pig straight back since there is a vertical bolt on the driver side back of the diff. You can't pull that vertical bolt out with the Radius arm in its normal position as the RA covers the bolt some.

I've pulled a front diff out 3 times in the last few months.
The First time I had no Radius arms or springs so everything was hanging down far enough that I could pivot the pig on that vertical bolt and the long side axle that was still connected cleared things.

2nd time was in junk yard (2 weeks ago). It was a little more work. We pulled the RA nuts off and took off the sway bars and took the springs off. Things were hanging far enough that we could push the RA out of the way again and pivot things like we did the 1st time.

Last week Pulled one off the parts truck. We just dropped the entire front end by pulling the RA nuts off, removing the axle pivot bolts and then loosening (not removing) the bolt that holds the spring so we could turn the spring out of its upper mount. Once on the ground we pushed the RA out of the way, pulled the vertical bolt along with the others and just pulled the diff straight out.

BTW.. 2 of those we pulled had never been opened (as far as we can tell). Both had red rtv looking stuff holding the diff in which seems to hold pretty good.

While your in there, might as well do the c-clip (e-clip) eliminator. That way if you ever break something on the long axle you can easily take it out.

This thread has info on pulling the diff and for c-clip eliminator.

btw.. were you trying to post a "reply" to one of your threads? If so, let me know and I'll combine them.

~Mark

it seems like you know what your talking about what do you do if the axel on the pass side wont seperate? im having a heck of a time trying to get the front diff out of my truck

 

[yostyexplorer94]

it seems like you know what your talking about what do you do if the axel on the pass side wont seperate? im having a heck of a time trying to get the front diff out of my truck

does the slip joint slide at all?

 

[jacob hurst]

does the slip joint slide at all?

No it does not I've tried prying on it beating it out and got nowhere I'm about to cut the ujoint with a torch

 

[Maniak]

it seems like you know what your talking about what do you do if the axel on the pass side wont seperate? im having a heck of a time trying to get the front diff out of my truck

Cut the boot and spray PB blaster into the splines.. keep doing that for a while (days) and then it's time to hit it with a hammer while someone pulls from the outside.

I'm not in the rust belt and had a heck of a time getting ours out too.

~Mark

 

[jtexplorer]

Yeah it does... It creates a stress riser in the notch, which could cause the arm to crack & fail.

Better would be to grind the bolt head flat on one side so that it is "D"-shaped, then you should be able to wiggle the bolt out past the radius arm. Reinstall the bolt from below, there's a bit more room for it in that direction.

I hesitated to respond to this after I saw who posted it, as I hold 4x4junkie in very high regards after reading his posts for years.

Having said that, wouldn't the notch in the radius arm only affect a left-right load, whereas radius arms only receive front-back loads? I don't think the front impact would ever be strong enough the buckle the radius arms, with or without a notch, and it makes a HELLUVA lot easier to get that damn bolt out than pulling all the parts necessary to get the bolt out without using a grinder!

- Joe

 

[tycoonmonsoon]

Could you weld back the notch? I'm a nube. Just an idea.