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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Cheap eBay headers. They actually look pretty decent honestly. 1.75" primaries 2.5" at the turbo flange.
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Not normal headers, no. Since the turbo headers go up and forward, they completely avoid the plugs. The only thing I'm not sure about is the steering shaft. I think it will clear but I won't be sure until I get it on there. If it won't clear I'm going to just move the steering shaft over an inch or two using a Flaming River u-joint. It's relatively simple to do. Lots of people use Flaming River (and other brand) joints on classic car builds. I'm actually doing it on my 50 Hudson.
Very impressive work. I have to say that a carb style intake and elbow sure does look appealing for ease of access to everything.
No intake In the way all the time, no egr tube to deal with, easy to get at the injectors and wiring as required... love it.
How did you modify the cruise and throttle cables? your using a GM tps that came with the throttle body? I'm guessing you used a elbow made for the lsx so you didn't have to make an adapter plate? How about dealing with the iac valve? I see it in the pictures, but can't see how you dealt with it.
Very impressive work. I have to say that a carb style intake and elbow sure does look appealing for ease of access to everything.
No intake In the way all the time, no egr tube to deal with, easy to get at the injectors and wiring as required... love it.
How did you modify the cruise and throttle cables? your using a GM tps that came with the throttle body? I'm guessing you used a elbow made for the lsx so you didn't have to make an adapter plate? How about dealing with the iac valve? I see it in the pictures, but can't see how you dealt with it.
Thanks alot. I actually used the stock throttle cable (the cable itself). I replaced the outside covering with some air line and used compression fittings on the ends(firewall and cable bracket). I am using a GM tps. It's 3 wires just like the Ford unit. Just matched up some schematics and wired it up. I did have to clock it to get the voltage where it should be. The stock gm IAC can't really be wired up so I used the stock Explorer IAC. I just welded up an "adapter" to make it remote mount. Works the same way as stock. Pulls air into the intake from before the throttle plate.
Throttle cable. The stock unit was too long and wouldn't work with the TB so I shortend the stock inner cable and just replaced the outer tubing with air line. Used a compression fitting on both ends. Did the same on the cruise control cable.
Are they all 8.5" width or 8.5" and 10"? Did you use any spacers? I like how they fit, I've been trying to get an idea on what offset works well. Looks like the 8.5" 5x4.5 only comes in 32mm offset. I'm torn between 18" or 20".
Any issues with piston to valve clearance with that cam? Are you using 1.6 or 1.7 rockers? I was looking at some of the Comp XE cams, but considering having one ground on a 116 lobe separation for a wider torque band, smoother idle, and less overlap for CA emissions. Did you swap the cam with the engine in the truck? All the posts I see seem to suggest that it can't be done in the truck.
Are they all 8.5" width or 8.5" and 10"? Did you use any spacers? I like how they fit, I've been trying to get an idea on what offset works well. Looks like the 8.5" 5x4.5 only comes in 32mm offset. I'm torn between 18" or 20".
Any issues with piston to valve clearance with that cam? Are you using 1.6 or 1.7 rockers? I was looking at some of the Comp XE cams, but considering having one ground on a 116 lobe separation for a wider torque band, smoother idle, and less overlap for CA emissions. Did you swap the cam with the engine in the truck? All the posts I see seem to suggest that it can't be done in the truck.
I'm running 1.6 ratio. I wasn't quite sure on clearance so I figured I would play it safe for now. I actually did swap it with the engine in the vehicle. You just have to cut a thin metal vertical "bar" that's in the middle of the radiator opening. Otherwise you can't pull the cam out. The hardest part was bending over the fender to swap out springs.
Fuel system:
Bosch 42# 440cc injectors
Aeromotive fuel rails
Boost referenced regulator
044 380lph fuel pump
100micron pre filter
30micron post filter
-10 at tank to -06 to rails
-06 return line
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And the box of parts grows. Exciting.
I'm sure your so called 'winter' is very short there so hopefully you can get busy soon.
The winds are high here, and the snow is blowing sideways.Not exactly weather to be working on a vehicle comfortably, unless you have a massive, insulated shop.
It would be neat if you could have a 302 based block on a stand, and the motor in your truck at the same time while you mock up the hot side piping.