Fuel fill & vent hose sizes needed.

[Mike65]

Hi all,
I am in the process of removing the fuel tank from my wife's 99 Explorer Sport to replace the fuel pump & I am using a post from this forum by member 2000 StreetRod as a guide.
How to: - Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport
I had to disconnect the fuel fill & vent hose from the filler neck & not the tank because the the hose clamps on the tank are so rusted & pointing the wrong ways I could not get them loose. While I have the fuel tank out I want to replace the 2 hoses as they look pretty bad, every time I handled them my hands would turn black. Does anyone here know the sizes of both of the hoses?.

 

[koda2000]

Hi all,
I am in the process of removing the fuel tank from my wife's 99 Explorer Sport to replace the fuel pump & I am using a post from this forum by member 2000 StreetRod as a guide.
How to: - Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport
I had to disconnect the fuel fill & vent hose from the filler neck & not the tank because the the hose clamps on the tank are so rusted & pointing the wrong ways I could not get them loose. While I have the fuel tank out I want to replace the 2 hoses as they look pretty bad, every time I handled them my hands would turn black. Does anyone here know the sizes of both of the hoses?.

I believe the filler hose is 1" ID. RockAuto lists one for about $20 and it appears to come with new hose clamps. I had a '00 Mountaineer where the hose clamps were rusty and could not be removed. I carefully cut the clamps off with my Dremel tool with a thin cutting wheel. Those hoses always are super nasty on the outside and nothing will turn you hands blacker. The insides seem to hold up okay. I suggest you wear rubber gloves and eye protection when working with those hoses.

I found this for the dimensions of the filler hose - 22.81 in. overall length; 1 in. inner and outer diameter. I don't see a listing got the vent hose.

More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM/COOLING DEPOT FNH007

 

[koda2000]

I believe the filler hose is 1" ID. RockAuto lists one for about $20 and it appears to come with new hose clamps. I had a '00 Mountaineer where the hose clamps were rusty and could not be removed. I carefully cut the clamps off with my Dremel tool with a thin cutting wheel. Those hoses always are super nasty on the outside and nothing will turn you hands blacker. The insides seem to hold up okay. I suggest you wear rubber gloves and eye protection when working with those hoses.

I found this for the dimensions of the filler hose - 22.81 in. overall length; 1 in. inner and outer diameter. I don't see a listing got the vent hose.

More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM/COOLING DEPOT FNH007

Are you planning to just replace the pump or the whole fuel pump assembly? If only the pump, you can save a lot of time and aggravation by taking a few short cuts I've learned. There's nothing wrong with 2000StreetRod's instructions, but in having changed at least a 1/2 dozen Explorer fuel pumps I've pretty much mastered the job. My 2 biggest time savings tips are to wire the front of the tank to it's bracket and allow this to act as a hinge and support for the front of the tank and to not remove the fuel line from the fuel pump assembly if only changing the pump.

 

[Mike65]

Thanks koda2000 that helps. I am just replacing the pump. I guess I will order the filler hose from Rock Auto.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks koda2000 that helps. I am just replacing the pump. I guess I will order the filler hose from Rock Auto.

Once you get the rear of the tank on the ground, clean the top of the tank to prevent dirt from falling into the tank, remove the small mounting bolts from the FP assembly and carefully remove it from the tank, being careful not to bend the fuel level float arm, then just swing the assembly over the leaf spring to change the pump. If the '99 had the return-less fuel system (fuel pressure regulator in the tank) be sure to replace both the rubber hose from the pump to the regulator and the regulator to the metal fuel line with new submersible hose. I use Bosch fuel pump kits that come with enough hose to do both pieces. I also prefer to use FI style hose clamps instead of the worm style clamps. I like the Bosch kits because they come with all the pieces necessary (except the strainer sock and fuel filter) to do the job and are very high quality.

Parts included - fuel pump, length of submersible hose, 2 FI hose clamps, jumper wire, new pump insulator (you will not need the large O-rings).

Example:

BTW - I noticed that 2000StreetRod marked the FP assembly & tank to make sure it was reinstalled in the same orientation as the way it was removed. The tank and assembly have a mark already indicating this and I believe the bolt holes will only line up if the FP assembly is inserted correctly. Not a dig, just my observation. Many have suggested to should look in the bottom of your tank and clean it out. All 6 of the tanks I dropped (on vehicles with min of 200,000 miles on them) were amazingly free of dirt and rust inside, so no cleaning was necessary. On the other hand, old fuel filters have an amazing amount of crud in them. I'm not saying you shouldn't look in the bottom of your tank, but again my observation.

 

[Mike65]

If any one is interested I got the fuel pump replaced & all seems well. Turned on the key & let the pump pressurize the system,cranked over the engine & after a second or two it fired right up. I will try it again when it is cold since that is when it would not work. All together it took me about 4 hours to do in the driveway in 38° temp. Koda2000 thanks for the idea to cut the clamps on the hoses with a dremel & small cutoff wheel, worked great. Checked the inside of the tank & it looked clean. Thanks to Koda2000 for suggestions, & 2000StreetRod for making the how to, you were both a big help. BTW I used the Bosch fuel pump & it has a jumper lead that the plug that plugged into the old pump plugs into & then the other end of the jumper lead plugs into the Bosch pump making it very easy to do.

 

[koda2000]

Congrats! If you ever have to do this job again you can probably do it in 2 hours. I'm down to about 90 mins after doing this 6 (actually 7) times.

Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. All to often we never hear back from people.

 

[Mike65]

Thanks Koda2000. Tried it again this morning when it was 25° & it fired right up. Now just waiting on the fuel fill & vent hoses so I could finish the job.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks Koda2000. Tried it again this morning when it was 25° & it fired right up. Now just waiting on the fuel fill & vent hoses so I could finish the job.

Did you find a vent hose somewhere? I didn't see any listed anywhere.

BTW - Ever since I bought my 2001 Expl 5.0L in 2012 w/170k+ on it, it gave me intermittent starting problems and long cranks (summer and winter) for 4 years before it finally would not start at all after sitting in the garage for 4 months during winter. Ever since I replaced the fuel pump it starts up instantly every time. Now I give a little smile every time I turn the key, finally having corrected the problem.

 

[Mike65]

No I did not. I measured the vent tube side of the filler neck & it measured out at 3/4", measured the length of the old vent hose & it came to 26", so I went to Filler Neck Supply & ordered 30" of 3/4" filler neck vent hose which is sold by the inch. I ordered more then I needed just to be sure. Once I receive both hoses I will post about my findings.
2) Fuel Tank Hose (Straight) - 3/4" or 19mm Diameter - Filler Neck Supply Co Specialty Parts Group Inc DBA

 

[Mike65]

OK update: I got the 3/4" filler neck vent hose from Filler Neck Supply & it fit great, also the fuel fill hose from RockAuto made by Spectra Is slightly small in diameter but with a little WD-40 or silicone spray it slipped over the tank & filler neck fittings. Next problem, I got both of the hoses from the filler neck to the gas tank installed & turn the key on & now I have a gas leak. It is dripping from the frame right over the front mount for the rear leaf spring. I took the fuel tank back down & the flex line that has the push connector that hooks to the fuel pump/sender assembly breaks right at the push connector, must have been dry rotted. My next problem is that the fuel line in the Explorer is 5/16" & the fitting on the pump/sender assembly is 3/8". How can I go from the 5/16" to the 3/8" safely?.

 

[koda2000]

Auto parts stores sell repair sections with the ends. Not sure what the piece you're looking for would look like or attach, but they're for making repairs, so who knows. These pieces are usually a behind the counter item, so you have to ask for them.

 

[Mike65]

OK update; The metal fuel line was cracked were it goes above a bracket that is screwed to the frame which looks like it is a support for the front shackle for the rear springs. It is possible I might have tweaked the line taking the tank down, but it also has some evidence of rust in the area where it was cracked. I cut the fuel line past where the break is where it straightens out to run horizontally along the frame. I got some 3/8" & 5/16" fuel injection hose since the outlet on the pump housing is 3/8" & the fuel line is 5/16", I also got some FI hose clamps & a 3/8" barbed fitting & made a section of line to replace the cracked metal line. It has been 2 days since the repair & working good.