BWM Brown Wire Mod 3rd Gen | Page 27 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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BWM Brown Wire Mod 3rd Gen

Lol, yes trial and error! I did some troubleshooting and searching on internet. I found that the brake light switch will cause this if its bad. So I decided to go through all of my fuses and see if any were blown, in particular the brake light switch. Found a blown fuse, I can't remember the name right now, but it was something like shift/gear release. Anyway, I'm positive it is my problem. No need to replace the brake light switch :)
So, back to my original question (one of them lol)... Do BW going to the relay need to be in a specific order? If so, which goes on my relay lead 87 and which on 30?
I should be good to go after this. I HOPE LOL!
 



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I'm in my car and about to go for a hockey game... min time. Lol

You need to check the relay diagram... there are posts for power to go straight through when switch is not on... then when switch is on... it should "switch relay to off". Essentially this mod uses the relay to disengage power (rather than engage power). My guess is it is just backwards.

Check my reverse light diagram to get an idea. In general... the "normally on" is the in cab switch (your ecu power to tcase clutch)

Sorry I can t be more help... Phone sucks
ReverseLightsDiagram.jpg
 






OK. . Just popped my hood to look at a relay

I'm guessing..

Cut brown wire. Put both ends to 30 and 87a

Leave 87 unused

Put your switch power to 85

Put your small aux ground to 86

Happy modding
(And thank the relay Co for printing a diagram on the top. Lol)
 






Ps. Also just found my spare key under my hood.. double score (must have lost it there last time I was tinkering g)
 






Lol on the spare key :) Those things are expensive, awesome find!
I was able to replace the fuse and my shifter now works great. I think I crossed a wire when I was searching for a power wire on accident. Problem solved though.
I went through my connections and gave it all a try. IT WORKS! My lighted switch will light when I turn it on, meaning the auto 4x4 is on as well. But turning off the switch turns my Explorer into two wheel drive :) So happy this is done. Now hopefully I won't be hearing that noise anymore when turning from a stop, and I can save my clutch packs.
Thank you for all of your help! I really do appreciate your kindness :) Now I need to fix my sticking ignition :( Any chance you know of a thread on that? lol
 






Had it happen to my Ranger. I think I pulled the lock cylinder and dropped it in clr. Worked great for a bit then did it again. Swapped it out for a new one.

If it is only "not releasing"... (not actually jamming)... then it is probably your park switch. My 06 gen iv did this and it was a switch in the floor shifter that engaged power to to lock cylinder only to release the key. I think you have a steering column shifter so it may be a short connection to that switch if you have the same lock switch functionality equipped. I hate that thing and would love to disable it... on my to do list... now with a manual... I have no floor shifter. So I have to press a button to remove my key :( lol.
 












Well I have read every post on the infamous Brown Wire Mod, and I'm still as confused as ever. I have checked on replacing the Traction Control Module, but at $280.00, I think I'll pass. I want to do the mod to save time, trouble, and money, but have some questions. On the TCM behind the glove compartment, there are two plug ins. If you are staring at the module, the plug in on the right has a brown wire, is this the wire in question? Or, do I try to find it in the door sill? Or, is there someplace better to find it? For whatever reason, most of the pictures for the posts do not show up.

Any help will be appreciated,

Pat
 






That is the brown wire. I don't know why they tear into the door sill for it..
 






That is the brown wire. I don't know why they tear into the door sill for it..
So the brown wire on the right hand side of the TCM is the wire that I'm looking for? Do you happen to know, when the wire is cut, which end is going to be hot? The side going towards the center of the Explorer, or the end coming out of the TCM?

And thank you Joe for lining this out.
 






I know some people say this mod betters mpg. But I don't see how that is possible. If it does... I certainly haven't seen it yet at the pump. All it does is disengage the power to the front at the tcase (which is pretty awesome and the reason I did it). But all the components are still turning at the front so I don't see the mpg benefit.

Ps. My biggest reason for this mod on my 3rd Gen is so I can pull my trailer in low gear on pavement (avoids the jumping while cornering and is much easier on the truck). With 4.56 gears and this mod... I can throw it in low gear at almost idle... and my truck has the torque to pull my 3500lb trailer up a 15% grade at walking speed ;)
 






@awdrocks
I would like to see more about the 800rwhp! Don't want to sidetrack the forum... but postup or pm a link over to some build info. Curious how you made this happen. I'm guessing at least a 4.6L or bigger with big boost and some extensive internal mods. I can't get much more than 325 at the crank with my blown 4.0L. Thanks!
 






OK, so I did the BWM yesterday on my 02, and I have problems. I used a 4 terminal relay (all I could find around here) and this is how I wired it. #86 ground, #85 power from switch, #30 & #87 to the cut ends of the brown wire. This is how I wired the switch. Top to ground, center to relay #85, bottom to the purple wire from the 4x4 switch assy. I turned on the ignition and the switch worked, so I turn off the ignition, close up the dash and plan to take a test drive. Now the switch no longer works, so I check all the connections, allnis well. Next I test the purple wirple wire from the 4wd switch assy, no power. Also, my ABS light is now on and there is a delay for the radio to power up. So I take everything out, and just hook up an on-off switch the the brown wire, same results. What did I do wrong?
 






I know this has been posted before, but here is the post with pics and a better title for those searching.

This is the procedure I used on a 2002. It should work on up to a 2005. These are the steps I followed. I am not saying this is the best and this is just a guide. Give your self about 2-3 hours to be safe.

1.Remove Dash. Start by removing the dash piece around the radio, center vents and air control. I applied a flathead screwdriver to the bottom of the plastic dash piece and pried up. This might leave a small mark in the dash piece below it, where the shaft of the screwdriver rests. Be careful. The dash should pop out. It should gradually start popping off. There are about six pops (clips) that should happen.
2. Mount the switch. I wanted mine in a easy-to-reach spot and visible. Since I have an XLS, the spot in the pics works great.

It is also easy to replace the small dash piece if needed. I also used a lighted switch, so I needed power for the light. I used the second wire from the right on the wiring harness to the 4x4 option buttons.

4. Run the wiring. I grounded my switch out to the radio (yellow wire). The red wire is the power wire spliced into the wiring harness mentioned above. I ran it to the power input on the switch.

The acc. or load wire on the switch, I ran behind the glove compartment. You can make the glove comp. swing all the way down by squeezing the catches inward.

After it is all wired, check the switch. Turn the key to the on position and check the switch. Should light up. Carefully replace the dash piece. Make sure not to pinch any wires. Close the glove compartment.
5. Find the Wire. If you remove the step plate on the passenger side, there is a wire channel underneath. You will also want to pull off the lower plastic trim piece, on the far right-hand side, under the glove comp. Remove the top cover of the wire channel; it is black and made of plastic. This will now show 2 bundles of wires; one large and one small. You want the small bundle.

The plain brown wire is the one of interest.

6. Install relay and wires. Cut the brown wire. Strip the ends and crimp or solder on a wire to both sides of the brown wire. There should be three bolts where you pulled off the plastic under the glove comp. One should be bare. This is where I mounted my relay and grounded out my relay.

If you do not have a mount, you can it tuck back in the body. I used a 12V/30A relay. In this photo,
Yellow = Ground
Green = Switch
Black = Input from brown wire (runs toward rear of vehicle)
White = Output to brown wire (runs to front of vehicle)
7. Check. After it is all hooked up, check it out. Start the vehicle. If the light is on, on the switch, all 4x4 options should work. If the light is off, it should be 2x4.
8. Put the plastic back on. Take for a test drive. Should work.

Notes. You now have new feature. You can still get the transfer case to shift into low. 2x4 Low! With the tranny in Neutral and with your 4x4 switch turned off, press the 4x4 low button. You should have low range but no 4x4. I have ran this mode several times and have no adverse effects. Feel free to ask questions. I am always glad to help.

Have Fun, Jared G.
Why cant i see the pics ?
 






Why cant i see the pics ?
Because people use 3rd party picture hosting sites, vs. paying $20/year to have explorerforum host them. They either delete the pictures on their end, or the host site changes settings/rules.
 












so I know this is an old post but I’ll try anyways...I can’t see any pictures on this post. There are others posts like that as well. Some I see pictures and others I don’t. Am I doing something wrong?
 






so I know this is an old post but I’ll try anyways...I can’t see any pictures on this post. There are others posts like that as well. Some I see pictures and others I don’t. Am I doing something wrong?
See post 535 above.
 






anyway
dont forget 12v automotive relay and fuse between your switch,TC case and 4x4 module.you dont want to melt your 4x4 module or TC clutch

performed this mode 2 years ago in my Gen4.no any issues instead of front tyres extra wear (less stable in high speeds too) .also fulltime drive LED indicator recommended
 



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anyway
dont forget 12v automotive relay and fuse between your switch,TC case and 4x4 module.you dont want to melt your 4x4 module or TC clutch

performed this mode 2 years ago in my Gen4.no any issues instead of front tyres extra wear (less stable in high speeds too) .also fulltime drive LED indicator recommended
When I cut the brown wire under my driver seat and splice into it which end of the wire do I connect to the power wire of the switch and which end of the brown wire do I connect the acc lead of the switch? In other words do I connect the power lead to the brown wire leading to the engine or to the wire leading into the transfer case? Where would I install the fuse and the relay? Sorry I know these are basic stupid questions but I can’t find the definitive answers and I want to do this right. Thanks.
 






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