Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
AC won't fit because of the downpipe. I tried to come up with a way to keep it but its just too tight.
Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,. Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
We all know how tight it is there. I was hoping you were able to defy the laws of spacial relationships though. lol.
I think I've gone a year or two at a time without using my air conditioning at all. Other years, I typically only use it for brief periods a few times a year.
I'm sure the results are going to be worth the trade off. I'm guessing your climate is reasonably moderate, although it must get humid there.
That should work great. I saw many self made pipe designs in Mustangs that were huge power cars, and yours look very similar. I would have done that with my 92 Lincoln, but decided I didn't need 600+hp. I'd wreck the car much faster that way.
It's going to be very fast. I hope the down pipe and rear pipes are at least 4" area or bigger. It'll push a ton of air, figure it like the volume of a 500CI engine. That's a boost guess of about 8-9psi.
3.5" downpipe is all I could squeeze between the frame and transmission. Even then I need to trim an "ear" off of the trans.
Once I go to the 351w I'll have to rework the exhaust.
3.5" downpipe is all I could squeeze between the frame and transmission. Even then I need to trim an "ear" off of the trans.
Once I go to the 351w I'll have to rework the exhaust.
How long is that section where it's tight, can you use a short piece of oval 4" pipe there? 3.5" pipe is fairly large, you'd just want the control to be the waste gate, not any restriction intake or exhaust.
It's around 5" probably. I originally was going to use oval pipe but it won't fit. After trimming that ear off the space is close to 3.68" square. The 3.5 round just does fit.
That's interesting. Did you have to have the gained space right next to where the upper joint is? I ask because the longer the shaft in the added upper section is, the less angle the joints would have. There's a lot of forces going on in those joints, beyond the normal levels.
I like the idea of that, I'm not sure where the most precious space will be when I get to making manifolds. I'd like to make the log manifold so the front part goes out and around the shaft, and let it remain straight(a new aftermarket shaft made up though).
That's interesting. Did you have to have the gained space right next to where the upper joint is? I ask because the longer the shaft in the added upper section is, the less angle the joints would have. There's a lot of forces going on in those joints, beyond the normal levels.
I like the idea of that, I'm not sure where the most precious space will be when I get to making manifolds. I'd like to make the log manifold so the front part goes out and around the shaft, and let it remain straight(a new aftermarket shaft made up though).
TONs of carbon but no cylinder ridge and I still see cross hatch patterns on all 8 cylinders. Lots of cleaning before I port them. Then it's on to the turbo drain fitting in the oil pan.
Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,. Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
