5R55W Transmission Showing P0775, P0732, P0735

[lmarkie74]

I rebuilt this transmission 10,000 miles ago and am now getting the P0755, P0732, P0735 codes. When I rebuilt the transmission, I took it to a locale transmission shop and he added the servo sleeves to the servo bores. What would you all suggest starting with?

 

[Rick]

I moved your thread to our transmission subforum.

 

[lmarkie74]

If replaced the valve body with a upgraded re-manufactured valve body. Didn't work. Still getting P0775. Getting a 1-2 shift flare, 2-3 shift is fine, 3-4 shift is fine, 4-5 shift is fine. Torque Converter Clutch does not engage. My understanding is that with a P0775, the code doesn't let the TCC engage. Everything is pointing to the O/D Servo. When I rebuilt the transmission, the O/D Servo was bad. I bought a used O/D Servo from a Transmission shop that looked good and he replace the servo bores with brass sleeves for me. I readjusted the band before replacing the valve body. Any transmission guys seen the brass sleeve in the OD Servo bore go bad or possibly the servo cup leaking or cracked? All I can think of I've haven't changed

This is killing me!

 

[lmarkie74]

What would be a good diagnostic procedure to follow and what equipment would I need?

 

[JK080]

If you have adjusted the band that would indicate the band is not broken, there is a good chance the servo piston itself has failed. I would remove the servo to inspect it, the brass sleeves shouldn't be the issue here.

 

[ScaryWoody]

I'm having the same codes on my 2003 XLS with 179k miles. Bought the truck at 165k so any work prior is unknown. I've done a ton of research but I'm no expert. Just trying to fix my problem so I can keep the truck.

I would suggest checking he O/D and Intermediate adjustment bands. Make sure they are adjustable and functional. Make sure fluid is full. I ended up ordering a servo bore kit with "O" rings. It accounts for an out of round servo bore. Ford Lincoln Mercury Explorer Mountaineer Navigator Servo Bore Fix

Plenty of info on these forums. You don't have to drop the transmission. I haven't done it yet but others have with good reviews. Not a fix just a temporary (50k-75k miles) band-aid. But, for me, I only need the truck until something I can't fix goes. KBB value on my truck is $280. I figure what do I have to lose.

 

[lmarkie74]

If you have adjusted the band that would indicate the band is not broken, there is a good chance the servo piston itself has failed. I would remove the servo to inspect it, the brass sleeves shouldn't be the issue here.

Finally got around to putting a O/D Servo into my transmission with the new bushings. Weather here has been quite cold and rainy. Today was the first day that we had sun and I had time.

Bought a brand new O/D Servo from a Ford Dealership. Had to drop the exhaust and transmission support to get to the stupid snap ring out. Crappy ring design. The new Servo did not work. Still getting the error Code P0775, "Pressure Control Solenoid B malfunction" Seems to be shifting a little better but not right.

So far, I had previously, to replace the O/D Servo, replaced the valve body with an update valve body. When I rebuilt the transmission, I replace the solenoid pack. Wonder it it has gone bad in the last 10,000 miles.

Any suggestion to try next?

 

[JK080]

This solenoid block is capable of failing at anytime and can be the cause of the codes and how it's operating. I have had to warranty solenoid blocks after rebuild with these transmissions due to a bad block setting codes, even after being gone for months.

I would check the connector to make sure there is no water inside it from the AC drip and check for bent or corroded pins, if all looks good my next step would be replacing the block. Once you have it out it might be worth it to check it with a meter, even if it electrically checks out it still could be bad...

 

[lmarkie74]

This solenoid block is capable of failing at anytime and can be the cause of the codes and how it's operating. I have had to warranty solenoid blocks after rebuild with these transmissions due to a bad block setting codes, even after being gone for months.

I would check the connector to make sure there is no water inside it from the AC drip and check for bent or corroded pins, if all looks good my next step would be replacing the block. Once you have it out it might be worth it to check it with a meter, even if it electrically checks out it still could be bad...

I just got around to changing the solenoid block with a known good one that worked. I even rebuilt "Pressure Control Solenod A", "B" and 'C". Can't remember which video I watched on Youtube, but they did a good job showing how to make sure and fix the disc and pins so they weren't sticking. Shift Solenoids, "A", "B", "C", "D" all ohm out to around the middle of the Resistance Ohms range. 24 ohms (range 16-45), Pressure Control Solenoid "A", "B", "C" are also around the middle of the range. 5.0 ohms (range 3.3-7.5). TCC Solenoid Ohms out at 10.3ohms, (range 9-16) .

I tested the all the Solenoids with a 12 volt battery. Starting with power to the 3 male pin.
Shift Solenoid "A", Pins 3 and 16
Shift Solenoid "B", Pins 3 and 15
Shift Solenoid "C", Pins 3 and 6
Shift Solenoid "D", Pins 3 and 5
Pressure Control Solenoid "A", Pins 3 and 11
Pressure Control Solenoid "B", Pins 3 and 1
Pressure Control Solenoid "C", Pins 3 and 4
TCC Solenoid, Pins 3 and 14

All Solenoids had a strong clicking sound, which tells me that they are all working.

Before reinstalled the block, I checked continuity at the PCM connector, #13 female pin, in the middle of the 3 connectors on the fire wall to the #1 female pin at the transmission case connector. Continuity check out to be zero, so this tells me there is no open circuit.

So far I have replaced the Valve Body, rebuilt and replaced the Solenoid block, and replaced the OD Servo. When I rebuilt the transmission, I had the new brass bushings installed in the case servo bores. I'm still have a high shift into 2nd gear and the TCC is not locking up, with the P0775 code.

So frustrating. In my ATSG transmission book, a P0775 is defined as a Pressure Control "B" solenoid, shorted circuit. Do I need to start looking for shorts in the harness? What is the best way? Or could my PCM not going to ground on Pin #13 at the middle PCM connector?

 

[JK080]

P0775 means that the PCM has electrical control of the Pressure Control B (PCB) solenoid, but when it duty-cycles it to control pressure, the solenoid is not mechanically functioning.

With the P0775 the transmission should be missing 2nd and 5th gears, I think your "high shift into 2nd" is really no 2nd gear with a 1-3 shift, the "TCC is not locking up" is really no 5th gear.

P0732 is for 2nd gear and P0735 is for 5th gear.

Basically the overdrive band is not being applied for some reason.

Have you been back into the valve body since this condition has started or did you replace the valve body 10,000 miles ago when you originally built this unit? There are a couple of valves that can prevent the overdrive servo from appling.

Disconnect the PCM connector and operate the solenoids as you did when you had the block out, also test each circuit to the block from the PCM connector.

If you do pull the valve body air check the operation of the servo through the case.

 

[lmarkie74]

With the P0775 the transmission should be missing 2nd and 5th gears, I think your "high shift into 2nd" is really no 2nd gear with a 1-3 shift, the "TCC is not locking up" is really no 5th gear.

P0732 is for 2nd gear and P0735 is for 5th gear.

Basically the overdrive band is not being applied for some reason.

Have you been back into the valve body since this condition has started or did you replace the valve body 10,000 miles ago when you originally built this unit? There are a couple of valves that can prevent the overdrive servo from appling.

You're right. I am only getting 3 gears as I count the shifts from a stopped position. 1, 3,, and 4. No 2nd or 5th. I replaced the valve body after the transmission started not shifting 1-2. I thought this would take care of it, but it didn't. I still have the valve body that I originally rebuilt the transmission with. Evidently, there is nothing wrong with it.

I'll try testing the solenoid block through the PCM connector. I can also check resistance of each solenoid through the PCM wiring connector. I did this once before and everything checked out.

 

[lmarkie74]

With PCM connector disconnected and F-37 fuse pulled, ohms checked out okay on all the 4 shift solenoids (23.4@16-45 ohms), the 3 Pressure control solenoids check out at 5.2 ohms@3.3-7.5), TCC solenoid checks out at 10.3 ohms@9-16 ohms. All 3 speed sensors check out fine. Note: All of this was tested through the PCM to Transmission Case Connector wiring harness. Basically the same ohm check with the solenoid block out.

With the ignition in Start position, I grounded each pin and listen to each solenoid. All solenoids energized by the sound of clicking, including the PC Solenoid "B", the one I am having trouble with.

Now that I know the wiring harness does not have any shorts or grounds and the Solenoid Block is good, next step is to remove the valve body and check the Forward Engagement Control Valve and the Overdrive Servo Control Valve. Are these the couple of valves that what affect the OD Servo? Also, I'll do an air pressure check on the OD servo port to see if the band is engaging. Do I have to have a test plate or can I just use a blow gun?

Thank you for all you help. Hope I'm getting closer to fixing the problem.

 

[JK080]

Overdrive servo control valve obviously and also Intermediate servo release valve end plug can exhaust the pressure control solenoid B pressure if it not installed correctly. Check your gaskets to make sure they fit the plate and no holes are covered and every other valve and end plugs are correctly installed and free.

You can get to the opening in the brass sleeve with a air gun like this.

 

[lmarkie74]

Overdrive servo control valve obviously and also Intermediate servo release valve end plug can exhaust the pressure control solenoid B pressure if it not installed correctly. Check your gaskets to make sure they fit the plate and no holes are covered and every other valve and end plugs are correctly installed and free.

You can get to the opening in the brass sleeve with a air gun like this.

When I apply air pressure through the 4th Band Apply port, what should I be seeing? I can hear and feel the OD servo clunking. The 4th Band Release port is expelling air. Looking at the OD band adjustment strut, I don't see it move as much as the intermediate band adjustment strut when apply air the the 2nd Band Apply port. If I stick my finger on the OD band adjustment strut and apply air into the 4th band apply port, I can feel it move. About a 1/32" or around there.

All ports have air blowing through them. Nothing plugged up.

 

[JK080]

I currently do not have one of these at a stage where I can air test it to gauge how it should sound. The leak out the Release port is concerning, this could indicate there is a leak at the servo bore.

I have only had one where the brass sleeve was worn and causing a problem, 10000 miles is not a lot of miles to wear out a sleeve so it wouldn't make sense that it is the issue but something is keeping the band from being applied.

 

[lmarkie74]

I currently do not have one of these at a stage where I can air test it to gauge how it should sound. The leak out the Release port is concerning, this could indicate there is a leak at the servo bore.

I have only had one where the brass sleeve was worn and causing a problem, 10000 miles is not a lot of miles to wear out a sleeve so it wouldn't make sense that it is the issue but something is keeping the band from being applied.

Not sure what you mean by "the leak out of the Release Port is concerning". I apply air to the 4th Band Apply port, I hear and feel a sound, and the 4th Band Release port expels air. This is the band applying problem. The same thing happens when I apply air to the 2nd Band Apply port and the air is expelled through the 2nd Band Release Port. This is the intermediate band that works perfectly and there is no problem. I can apply air to either of the Release ports and air is held until I remove the air nozzle with a sudden gush. When I installed a new OD Servo, I made sure that there was no drastic slop with the servo pin and brass bushing bore. I can't believe that it would be worn out in 10,000 miles either.

In my research, I saw a test where you could back probe the power source pin #3 and the pin for the PCB. Installing a pressure gauge at the PCA & PCB test port on the side of the transmission next to gear shift lever. This was done with a Scanner. With the scanner you can increase or decrease the voltage to the solenoid and watch pressure and voltage of the power source #3 pin and the pressure control solenoid "B". This would determine if I have any leakage. Problem is, I don't have a $1000 scanner.

Scanner would also let me determine if the PCM is commanding the solenoid to turn on or off.

Do you test transmissions with a pressure guage and scanner?

 

[JK080]

When the air is coming out the release port that indicates air from the apply side is bleeding over into the release side. I would think some may be normal but I dont have a way to test that myself right now. I have air tested them before but dont remember noticing air coming from the release port. If the amount of air leaking from the overdrive release side is the same as the intermediate side when you air test that circuit that would make me think its normal or at least acceptable.

Whenever I have dealt with problems with the overdrive band its always been the valve body, case, band or servo problems, so everything you have done, tested and replaced and still haven't resolved the issue is unusual.

I dont use pressure gauges much anymore these days only when I am questioning pressure related problems, missing gears and shift timing issues I would use the data stream from the scanner to help determine where the problem is.

 

[lmarkie74]

Yep, air expels at the same rate as the Apply port as the Release port in both the OD servo as does the Intermediate servo. I can hear and feel both servos actuating and the both bands are tightening.

I didn't mention this but, the last time I checked and reinstalled the valve solenoid block, the transmission was not shifting. I drove the vehicle to a local restaurant for dinner. After it sat for a while, I got into the vehicle and everything was shifting perfect. Drove it for about 25 miles and parked it at the house. The next morning, I drove it, and it never shifted like the night before. Sign of a Intermittent problem, maybe.

All the wiring and solenoids check out good as I have posted previously. All I can think of is there is something wrong with the PCM. The PCM or a ground from the PCM. If it was a ground from the PCM, then I would think that other solenoids wouldn't work. Still, hard to image that a OD servo busing would go bad in 10,000 miles.

 

[lmarkie74]

Well....If have the transmission all buttoned up and back together.
Here is a summary of what I have done:

I rebuilt this transmission 10,000 miles ago and am now getting the P0755, P0732, P0735 codes. When I rebuilt the transmission, I took it to a locale transmission shop and he added the servo sleeves to the servo bores.

I replaced the valve body with a upgraded re-manufactured valve body and replaced the OD servo with a new one from the Ford dealership.

With PCM connector disconnected and F-37 fuse pulled, ohms checked out okay on all the 4 shift solenoids (23.4@16-45 ohms), the 3 Pressure control solenoids check out at 5.2 ohms@3.3-7.5), TCC solenoid checks out at 10.3 ohms@9-16 ohms. All 3 speed sensors check out fine. Note: All of this was tested through the PCM to Transmission Case Connector wiring harness. Basically the same ohm check with the solenoid block out. I bench tested the solenoid block and rebuilt. Checks out fine. Turbine Speed Sensor, Output Speed Sensor, and Intermediate Speed Sensor all check out within OHM range through the wiring harness and bench testing.
With the ignition in Start position, I grounded each pin and listen to each solenoid. All solenoids energized by the sound of clicking, including the PC Solenoid "B", the one I am having trouble with.

Removed Valve Body, Reverse Servo, and Solenoid block again. Air checked the OD Servo band through the 4th Band Apply port and made sure that air was expelled through the 4th Band Release port. Checked out fine, no blockage.with band movement. Air checked the Intermediate Servo band through the 2nd Band Apply port and made sure that air was expelled through the 2nd Band Release port. Band was engage just the same as OD band.

Test drove the vehicle for 10 plus miles. Still not shifting into 2nd and 5th gear. Test drove later that day and all of a sudden it was shifting into 2nd and 5th gear perfect. When I came to a stop, sometimes it would shift into 2nd and sometimes not. Next day it was actually shifting into 2nd and 5th more frequently. MORE NOT SHIFTING CORRECTLY, THAN SHIFTING CORRECTLY.

Looks like to me, that the problem is not mechanical. Replaced Valve Body, rebuilt Solenoid Block and bench tested, Tested Solenoid block through wiring harness. Problem seems to lie in the wiring, inputs, or maybe PCM. Maybe semi broken strands on the pin 1 wire of the Pressure Control Solenoid "B" to pin 13 of the PCM connector.(Light Blue/Pink)

I have researched other places on this forum that had the same symptoms. They replaced everything I did. Anyone find that problem to this intermittent shifting problem I have??????

 

[lmarkie74]

Well....If have the transmission all buttoned up and back together.
Here is a summary of what I have done:

I rebuilt this transmission 10,000 miles ago and am now getting the P0755, P0732, P0735 codes. When I rebuilt the transmission, I took it to a locale transmission shop and he added the servo sleeves to the servo bores.

I replaced the valve body with a upgraded re-manufactured valve body and replaced the OD servo with a new one from the Ford dealership.

With PCM connector disconnected and F-37 fuse pulled, ohms checked out okay on all the 4 shift solenoids (23.4@16-45 ohms), the 3 Pressure control solenoids check out at 5.2 ohms@3.3-7.5), TCC solenoid checks out at 10.3 ohms@9-16 ohms. All 3 speed sensors check out fine. Note: All of this was tested through the PCM to Transmission Case Connector wiring harness. Basically the same ohm check with the solenoid block out. I bench tested the solenoid block and rebuilt. Checks out fine. Turbine Speed Sensor, Output Speed Sensor, and Intermediate Speed Sensor all check out within OHM range through the wiring harness and bench testing.
With the ignition in Start position, I grounded each pin and listen to each solenoid. All solenoids energized by the sound of clicking, including the PC Solenoid "B", the one I am having trouble with.

Removed Valve Body, Reverse Servo, and Solenoid block again. Air checked the OD Servo band through the 4th Band Apply port and made sure that air was expelled through the 4th Band Release port. Checked out fine, no blockage.with band movement. Air checked the Intermediate Servo band through the 2nd Band Apply port and made sure that air was expelled through the 2nd Band Release port. Band was engage just the same as OD band.

Test drove the vehicle for 10 plus miles. Still not shifting into 2nd and 5th gear. Test drove later that day and all of a sudden it was shifting into 2nd and 5th gear perfect. When I came to a stop, sometimes it would shift into 2nd and sometimes not. Next day it was actually shifting into 2nd and 5th more frequently. MORE NOT SHIFTING CORRECTLY, THAN SHIFTING CORRECTLY.

Looks like to me, that the problem is not mechanical. Replaced Valve Body, rebuilt Solenoid Block and bench tested, Tested Solenoid block through wiring harness. Problem seems to lie in the wiring, inputs, or maybe PCM. Maybe semi broken strands on the pin 1 wire of the Pressure Control Solenoid "B" to pin 13 of the PCM connector.(Light Blue/Pink)

I have researched other places on this forum that had the same symptoms. They replaced everything I did. Anyone find that problem to this intermittent shifting problem I have??????

Update: I checked wiring harness from transmission to PCM connector with a load to see if I had any weak wiring. I did this with a 51 watt headlight bulb. Each connector handled a 3.5 amp load perfectly. Used an amp meter in line. Replaced Valve Body, Solenoid Block, OD Servo Piston, Air Checked OD Servo, Transmission does shift into 2nd and 5th every once in a while. What's left? PCM? Are these 2002 Ford Explorer PCM's know to go bad? How can I test the PCM?