Roof Rack / Rail Removal

[Eltee]

I'm interested in possibly taking the factory rails off my Explorer. However, once in a while I could probably use a roof rack temporarily. Is there an aftermarket rack setup that will work with an Explorer with a bare roof? When I go on the sites for Thule, etc. they don't show an Explorer PIU. Will probably need this temporary rack for a small cargo basket and occasionally a bike rack. No sunroof.

Thanks for any leads.

 

[Biohazrus]

Hey, not sold on the final look, personal opinion. But still look good if that is what you are after.
On my side I am planning on a custom roof rack with a integrated light bar.
Only caveat is that I have a sunroof so it would be limited to 100lbs. So done mostly for the look. Anyhow, if someone near Gatineau/Ottawa region planing on doing this rack removal. I would sacrifice myself to remove you from your old rails (and surely helping you doing it) as I would use them a sacrificial template!

 

[peterk9]

Hey, not sold on the final look, personal opinion. But still look good if that is what you are after.
On my side I am planning on a custom roof rack with a integrated light bar.
Only caveat is that I have a sunroof so it would be limited to 100lbs. So done mostly for the look. Anyhow, if someone near Gatineau/Ottawa region planing on doing this rack removal. I would sacrifice myself to remove you from your old rails (and surely helping you doing it) as I would use them a sacrificial template!

Not 100 lbs. This is from your Manual;
The maximum recommended load, evenly
distributed on the crossbars, is:
• 100 lb (45 kg) for vehicles without a
moonroof.
• 45 lb (20 kg) for vehicles with a
moonroof.

Peter

 

[Ron Bumpus]

Roof rack was totally useless
Buy a trailer instead

 

[Biohazrus]

Not totally useless if you count the cool factor as useful.
And I'd use it for skies and it is going to hold a light bar...
For sure, a trailer is more often better, neighbor let me use his.
Not appeal by the hitch rack either, if one would propose.

Thanks for the precision on weight restriction, did not verify before speaking up!

 

[Ron Bumpus]

another option is the seasucker mounts" used for bicycles.
SeaSucker Talon Bike Rack

I am looking at this for a light weight ladder or home depot run with something long.

 

[Oakley1232]

Thanks for the step by step explanation.
Could you please be more specific with step 1) to pop of the plastic part, as I am afraid I may break one of the pins.

Thank you!!

Sorry for late response..just finally saw this as I only check this site when I need something done..I placed the flathead near the front A pillar in between the plastic and weather stripping, gently pried up the plastic top part and it pops off..once you get first one/two off..gently pull the top plastic part off and you’re good

 

[peterk9]

Sorry for late response..just finally saw this as I only check this site when I need something done..I placed the flathead near the front A pillar in between the plastic and weather stripping, gently pried up the plastic top part and it pops off..once you get first one/two off..gently pull the top plastic part off and you’re good

When you post a question it is a good idea to follow up on it on a regular basis. You can select 'Watch this thread' from the above options on the right and set it up to notify you when new posts are made to it.

Peter

 

[Dan17ExpLtd]

Has anyone done this and how difficult is it? Are there plugs for the bolt holes?

TIA

 

[NEWPORTNJ]

Has anyone done this and how difficult is it? Are there plugs for the bolt holes?

TIA

If you don't want the roof x bars ill buy them

 

[peterk9]

Has anyone done this and how difficult is it? Are there plugs for the bolt holes?

TIA

Your thread was merged with this existing one on the same topic.

Peter

 

[twobanger]

I'll snap some more pictures today. I think once I get the visual Garage fin on it'll look much cleaner.

Pictures are of a 2013?

 

[twobanger]

Just did the roof rack removal, as well as the shark fin install. IMO I love it. As for the paint cracking, it is on mine as well, however it is the seam sealer that is all cracked, probably caused by them installing the roof rack before it is fully cured, or hardened. Simple touch up paint will solve this. As for sealing the holes, I went to HD and bought some Stainless 6mm dome head bolts that I will powder coat black, as well as some 1/4" rubber washers.

I am 6'8" and have a hard time seeing the drip rail.

As for the front, it looks ok on the Black explorer's but I may bolt the trim back on. It actually is quite secure by itself but may come off in a carwash. I will probably fabricate a little aluminum bracket, powder coat it black, and use an existing bolt hole to secure it.

As for the adding and removing the roof rack during each season, I don't see why you couldn't. I don't need one, but it took me all of 15min to remove, searching for tools ect... and the black rubber washers are like .25c at HD. Guys take longer to hook up a RV to go camping each weekend.

Kudo's to I believe "Hollywood" for the Wheel suggestions. Love em.

What year?

 

[peterk9]

What year?

His profile in the margin shows 2014 Sport. Post 159 shows the removal procedure for a 2017.

Peter

 

[metroplex]

I have a 2018 Explorer XLT with the stock silver painted roof capa. The right rear keeps popping up and I have been unable to secure it. I was thinking of replacing it and have seen several types in the field. I've spotted the same ones as mine, chromed silver, glossy black, but the Ford parts catalog also shows a carbon black and absolute black. Can anyone provide more info on these colors? Matte black should work with my magnetic paint.

I was going to try bending the cap with a heat gun or maybe reducing the size of the clip hole with ABS cement.

 

[peterk9]

I have a 2018 Explorer XLT with the stock silver painted roof capa. The right rear keeps popping up and I have been unable to secure it. I was thinking of replacing it and have seen several types in the field. I've spotted the same ones as mine, chromed silver, glossy black, but the Ford parts catalog also shows a carbon black and absolute black. Can anyone provide more info on these colors? Matte black should work with my magnetic paint.

I was going to try bending the cap with a heat gun or maybe reducing the size of the clip hole with ABS cement.

Have you had the dealer check it out? That should fall under the warranty. Depending on what the actual issue is, are you sure that a replacement won't do the same thing?

Peter

 

[metroplex]

Have you had the dealer check it out? That should fall under the warranty. Depending on what the actual issue is, are you sure that a replacement won't do the same thing?

Peter

I kind of want to know why these rail covers are popping at the edges. There seem to be a few points of retention: the gray caps with expandable tabs, and a few gray tabs. But it is the rears that keep popping up. My left side is solid as a rock, but the right side flexes up and side to side so easily that it just pops up with normal driving. I've seen it on only a few other 16-up Explorers so it is possible a manufacturing issue with those covers. I hate dealing with the dealership on these type of warranty issues as they will first blame the customer and then try to be your friend.

 

[metroplex]

So I tried a few things. Used some heat to curve it at the back more, used some heat to compress the rear section more, applied extra layers of ABS cement on the holes that interface with the "Expanding" retainer plugs. I managed to break one of the clips that are ridiculously thin, but the ABS cemented welded it back very quickly.

So it seems the rear cap has this tang that clips into the black molding (the structure that bolts to the roof) that faces the GPS antenna. I believe the roof caps are made either too lose at the rear, or the tang is too short. I've noticed the rear caps pop up on a variety of 2016-up Explorers including this 2017 XLT FWD that I saw in our parking lot. He had the sport appearance package so he had the carbon black roof caps (which look like the ones I'd buy if I wanted to get replacements) which are a matte black. His driver's side rear cap popped up.

So when I used a bit of heat to squeeze in the rear of the cap, that seemed to make it contact the slot better and secure it. The other stuff I tried didn't do anything really much.

For others with the same problem, you can spend time at the dealer and have them keep replacing the caps until one fits. Or try using a bit of heat from a heat gun and squeeze the back of the cap (right where that inner tang is located) and let it cool. I applied some layers of ABS cement at the tang to try and thicken it up, but I don't believe that did a whole lot. But when I clipped back on, it made a very loud and sharp SNAP sound that I've never heard during the several times I tried fixing it. I'm not sure if this is the 100% solution, but it's the best I've seen so far.

Be warned if you remove the cap, there are several clips that are extremely insanely thin that will easily snap/break. But ABS cement will weld them back very easily as the caps are made of ABS as well. ABS is very easy to work with, as I've cracked the factory ABS body work on my Ducati in the past and ABS cement welded it back like new in terms of strength (appearance is another issue altogether).

 

[peterk9]

^^^ Pictures of this issue would be helpful in seeing exactly what the issue is.

Peter

 

[RogueExplorer]

2017 Explorer Roof Rack Rail Removal

Just removed the roof rack/rail from our explorer...just need a socket wrench, socket wrench extension, size 10 socket, star screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, needle nose pliers, dremel/plastic cutting tool, plastic panel screw trim clips (x12), panel/emblem/trim adhesive (with water sealant) and/or trim removal tools.

1) Used flathead screwdriver/trim removal tool and lodged in between colored plastic part (top) and main hardware/weather stripping (bottom) to pop of the plastic parts. Its secured with five or six plastic clips.

2) Once top part is off, used socket wrench/size 10 socket to remove the five/six bolts.

3) Then used needle nose pliers/socket to remove the one nut from a screw sticking up (halfway on strip/near rear door).

4) Back to front end near the A Pillar, the plastic strip from the front windshield to the front rack/rail, is held in by a clip...just need a screwdriver to push the clip apart from underneath the main hardware bottom rail and the plastic piece from the windshield.

5) Lift the main bottom hardware rail/weather stripping up and away from the vehicle.

6) Now you're left the little plastic piece from along A Pillar from the front windshield. I used a dremel to cut the plastic piece in a shorter length so the clip does not stick up...I also used the dremel to shave down the screw halfway where the nut was attached to (Step 3), in case I want to reattach rails in future.

7) I then cleaned the area for debris from front to back.

8) Used plastic panel screw trim clips with water sealant adhesive to fill in the holes where bolts were removed from. Also used adhesive on the cut down plastic trim part that was along the A Pillar to secure that back to vehicle.

9) Hand washed my vehicle the next day to make sure there was no water leakage from roof.

10) Enjoy the slick top appearance now.

2017 Ford Explorer Roof Rack Rail Removal

I was taking off my rails on my 2017 XLT and noticed the bolt sticking out of the roof like you mentioned. Do you still have it up there, and cut half way? Or did you find a way to remove it all together? I wouldn't be able to stand having the look of a bolt sticking out of my roof. Any help would be appreciated.