Loose wheels, side to side play, but tie rod ends solid as a rock? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Loose wheels, side to side play, but tie rod ends solid as a rock?

tonydmm2

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Ford Explorer
2005 ford explorer steering issue, just replaced everything 2 yrs ago (33 k miles) with all moog stuff (tie rods, upper & lower control arms, & strut assemblies), now tires are getting worn on the inside, which usually indicates bad tie rods or ball joints, alignment is so far off that I can't drive it, makes too much noise & pulls. I jacked it up and had excessive side to side play & clunking while wiggling the tire. I assumed that the moog components had failed prematurely, I heard they were selling cheap chinese crap. So I bought the Napa tie rod ends, removed the old moogs, & ****, the moogs are still tight as can be, solid as a rock??? So what could the problem be? The control arm bushings seem to have failed prematurely, they are cracked & separated, or could it be a rack & pinion issue? I'll put the tire back on and wiggle it some more for further diagnoses.

Control Arm Bushing 2.jpg


Control Arm Bushing 1.jpg
 



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Could be bad hub bearings, could be the axle nut is loose.
 






Hello. Check your wheel bearings. Sounds like your wheel bearings are bad.
 






Here's a video of the tire side to side play. I mistook this for the tie rod ends being bad, but they are solid as a rock, just like new.
Hello. Check your wheel bearings. Sounds like your wheel bearings are bad.
I replaced them last year. They are in perfect working order.
 






Here's a video of the tire side to side play. I mistook this for the tie rod ends being bad, but they are solid as a rock, just like new.

I replaced them last year. They are in perfect working order.
If you did then last year, I would say try and re-torque them. You may be surprised ton find the nut not fully tightened any more.
 






I removed the spindle, lo and behold, the ball joints are loose as a goose, esp the lower one. These were new moog’s i installed 2 yrs ago. The lower one looked suspisious with no grease fitting, i guess its a cheap chinese ball joint the pressed into their control arm. I’ll try calling them for a warrantee replacement.

252546A5-A865-4176-8342-6DE9C61D7F53.jpeg
 












Could be bad hub bearings, could be the axle nut is loose.

The axel nut does nothing more than hold the axel in place. It has no effect on the wheel movement, other than to rotate it.

If you did then last year, I would say try and re-torque them. You may be surprised ton find the nut not fully tightened any more.

The bearings are in a hub and utilize three bolts to hold the hub in place. There is no nut to torque.
 






The axel nut does nothing more than hold the axel in place. It has no effect on the wheel movement, other than to rotate it.



The bearings are in a hub and utilize three bolts to hold the hub in place. There is no nut to torque.
?????

Have you read any of the manuals?
Or manufacturer info?
 






actually the axle nut is torque to yield one time use, Anytime you remove that nut it should be replaced.
 






actually the axle nut is torque to yield one time use, Anytime you remove that nut it should be replaced.
Strangely enough, my local Ford dealer didn’t have any in stock. Shop didn’t have any. I said “you must just be re-using them then.” They just shrugged.
 






Strangely enough, my local Ford dealer didn’t have any in stock. Shop didn’t have any. I said “you must just be re-using them then.” They just shrugged.

blue loctite....i used it once.
 






Also found the passenger wheel bearing went bad, loud grinding noise and noticable play and click when jiggled. Another moog component i replaced 2 yrs ago and the last item i checked of course. I wont be buying any moog components ever again, it all expensve napa parts from here on out.
 






?????

Have you read any of the manuals?
Or manufacturer info?

Have you?
I've actually replaced the hubs, axel nuts, upper and lower ball joints, and the tie rod ends.
The axel drives the front wheels and can be removed independently of the hub assembly, where the bearings are housed. It does not hold the hub or bearings in place.
However, to remove the hub assembly, the axel nut needs to be removed and the axel pressed out. The front axels can be removed and the vehicle will still be drivable.
 






Have you?
I've actually replaced the hubs, axel nuts, upper and lower ball joints, and the tie rod ends.
The axel drives the front wheels and can be removed independently of the hub assembly, where the bearings are housed. It does not hold the hub or bearings in place.
However, to remove the hub assembly, the axel nut needs to be removed and the axel pressed out. The front axels can be removed and the vehicle will still be drivable.
I have a 2 wheel drive and I'm working on the front, no axel to deal with, but thx.
 






Hello. Check your wheel bearings. Sounds like your wheel bearings are bad.
You were right HitchHikingMike, my passenger wheel bearing was bad, the new moog I installed 2 years/33k miles ago (my son was working on that side, took me a while to get over there and QA his work, lol). Their Moog brand is now questionable, the tie rod ends are still nice and tight, but the ball joints, wheel bearings, and control arm bushing failed prematurely. I'll just stick with all Napa parts from here on out.
 






Have you?
I've actually replaced the hubs, axel nuts, upper and lower ball joints, and the tie rod ends.
The axel drives the front wheels and can be removed independently of the hub assembly, where the bearings are housed. It does not hold the hub or bearings in place.
However, to remove the hub assembly, the axel nut needs to be removed and the axel pressed out. The front axels can be removed and the vehicle will still be drivable.
If you're referring to the hub bolts, they most definitely should be torqued properly since they are radial and there are more than one, It's imperative they are all holding with the same amount of force
 






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