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Timing Chain Tensioners - Purchasing

Broke(n)

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November 23, 2014
Messages
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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 4DR XLS 4X2
So getting that dreaded rattle on idle (goes away after driving about 50yds) and with all I am reading, it's the tensioners. So I'd like to replace before things get bad. About 125k give or take so probably about time.
My question is, without having to spend too much, where should I buy these. What brand. What should I pay.
 



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So getting that dreaded rattle on idle (goes away after driving about 50yds) and with all I am reading, it's the tensioners. So I'd like to replace before things get bad. About 125k give or take so probably about time.
My question is, without having to spend too much, where should I buy these. What brand. What should I pay.
I would go motorcraft with these, as with most parts, I choose to pay a bit more and be at peace knowing I have a quality part versus an off brand that may or may not last/perform properly.
They're 50-60 from the dealership, I'm sure you could find them cheaper on amazon or something similar, good luck.
You can find off brand on rock auto for around 30, again I would pay a little extra knowing the part will last, they have a pretty important task.
 






As shane10 stated motorcraft all the way. Yes cost more but worth it. Your originals lasted 125k.
 






Motorcraft only on all of the timing components.
 






Don't buy into the hype of "Motorcraft only" as there are reports of a lot of Explorer wearing through the tensioners much sooner (60K, 80K). Same goes for a lot of other Motocraft components...for example hub bearings. If the Motorcraft components were so great you wouldn't have to replace them when you did. Use good judgement when selecting component but don't simply be blind thinking Motorcraft is the best. In so many cases the "Motorcraft" parts are made in other countries just like the generics. You might should think about a complete timing chain kit.
 






I believe Broke(n) is speaking of the hydraulic tensioners that can be changed from outside the engine one on each side. For these go with the motorcraft. Remember the chain setup was and is a poor design. Service is so important in this engine.
 






The springs are a little stiffer in the OEM over the aftermarket. Cloyes seem to be hit and miss, but far better than most aftermarket. The Chinese can bind and are garbage right out of the box. There is a danger of brittle cassettes being shattered by the installation of new stiffer springs. The best option is a pre oiler to bring up pressure before the engine starts, or holding the pedal to the floor and cycling it a few times before starting it, as it will bring the pressure up, and there is no need to rely on the crappy springs while the engine builds up pressure.
 






Tech By Trade good advice. I read your complete write up on your Sport Trac what a horror story. Did you ever get the priest for the Exorcism.
 






I just started having the rattle on the right rear(!) of the engine. I'm going to heavier oil and new tensioners. When that quits working, the car's going to the scrap yard. Frigging German design POS!
 






Bobbylew how many miles on the engine. Agree with your statement above. Thought the German's designed the best engines. 5r55s trans i believe is French. Guess we forgot how to make engines like the Chevy 350, turbo 400 trans or let's see the 426 hemi-289-302 ford.
 






Don't cheap out with internal engine components ... stick with Motorcraft.
 






Tech By Trade good advice. I read your complete write up on your Sport Trac what a horror story. Did you ever get the priest for the Exorcism.
The ol pig is actually running pretty good. Just ordered some ceramic pads for it today. I have a new wheel bearing sitting in the garage, waiting for the drivers front. Other than that its been pretty solid the last year or so. I need to take a boo at my solder job on the remote line for the alternator as the check charging system light pops on under full load, and the battery is solid. and my rebuilt alternator is only a year old. But no real complaints for a while now.... knock on wood. I think it will make a good winter beater when I get around to buying something new.
 






Tech By Trade glad to hear things have settled down.
 






So getting that dreaded rattle on idle (goes away after driving about 50yds) and with all I am reading, it's the tensioners. So I'd like to replace before things get bad. About 125k give or take so probably about time.
My question is, without having to spend too much, where should I buy these. What brand. What should I pay.
I've used Cloyes. No problems. I see no reason to buy Motocraft. But given to labor, I would not put in ebay Chinese.
 






Bobbylew how many miles on the engine. Agree with your statement above. Thought the German's designed the best engines. 5r55s trans i believe is French. Guess we forgot how to make engines like the Chevy 350, turbo 400 trans or let's see the 426 hemi-289-302 ford.

Littleant - Mine's a bit over 125,000. I had to re-zero the right camshaft. It was a solid 15 degrees late! Caused a Bank 1 too rich and Bank 2 too lean! Strange. Previous owner had no SES light. I think the folks who sold it to him "juiced" the PCM flash. He had lost all PATS keys, so I got a replacement PCM, bench flashed to the latest with 2, uncut keys. It has been a real experience! "German design....Make it as difficult to work on as possible."!
 






Bobblew thanks for the reply. 15 degrees out that is strange. I purchased a 2010 mountaineer 1 1/2 years ago with 58,000 miles 4.0 super clean full service records from dealer. Serviced every 3-4,000 miles one owner. Now have 72,000 miles. Summer only vehicle never seen winter roads. Knock on wood no issues. YET. Was in your part of the country last October South Dakota cross country trip. I could not believe all the wind turbines. Must have drove 200 miles and seen thousands of them and the crazy constant wind. Beautiful country.
 






Bobblew thanks for the reply. 15 degrees out that is strange. I purchased a 2010 mountaineer 1 1/2 years ago with 58,000 miles 4.0 super clean full service records from dealer. Serviced every 3-4,000 miles one owner. Now have 72,000 miles. Summer only vehicle never seen winter roads. Knock on wood no issues. YET. Was in your part of the country last October South Dakota cross country trip. I could not believe all the wind turbines. Must have drove 200 miles and seen thousands of them and the crazy constant wind. Beautiful country.


Yeah, Littleant - that was camshaft 15°, making it 30° on the crank! I was amazed that it ran as well as it did. No SES Light now. (Hooray!) The new tensioner cured the rattle at startup. Luckily, it was Bank #1. Chicago got nothing on the Dakotas! We got more dang wind than Washington, DC! LOL
 






I've had good luck with Cloyes. I like their video on re-timing the 4.0L SOHC engine, too. If you have the startup rattle, then you are probably looking at more than the tensioners. In my experience, its the cassettes (guides) that fail, not the tensioners.

Of course, replacing cassettes is a big deal. But 100 times better to do it before the engine fails than before (interference engine; and shattered cassette debris spewn throughout crankcase is no good).

If you replace the tensioners alone or as part of a full job, be sure you pre-prime them before installation. You will know they are primed when they are rock hard (almost no give whatsoever) when you try to compress them. And mind the (paper thin) washers--dealer only part. Get several, as you will destroy/bend them every time you take a tensioner out. Good luck.
 






I'm replacing the tensioners right now. Ive ran into an issue though.
The new ones have thin metal washers but the ones I just took out do not have washers.
To use washers or no? What are the torque specs on either?
 



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Broke(n) 32 lb/ft use the new metal gasket. Double check to make sure the old gaskets are not stuck to the block.
 






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