Recent content by bdmaash

I would start by having Ford reprogram the TCU. Had a similar problem after messing with transmission settings (had to manually shift). Took it to Ford, told them to not perform any service only program TCU/ECU with latest updates. Fixed issue - it was a $100 gamble which worked. Your problem...

End of January, was this solved? I had chimed in and said CPS. Last winter I had some intermittent hiccups driving, and a complete no start, them problems reduced to occasional hiccup driving in cold weather. Assumed it was CPS, bought one but never got around to changing it. This winter first...

I second, it works when the hose tank side is disconnected, to confirm disconnect hose from where it goes (other side), if problem stays - clogged/kinked hose, if it fills with the other side of hose disconnected, then I would look elsewhere (sorry haven't looked at any drawing, so this is just...

8 months of rust buildup on rotors?, 8 months of water absorption into fluid?, so many possibilities including the one above The brakes to begin are under designed for the truck, the brake system may have been an alright design if the truck weighed a few thousand pounds less.

yes, when they're intermittent, it almost feels like engine cuts out due to fuel sometimes whilst driving. cheap part, pretty easy to replace.

let it sit and rust away slowly

The post seems to be a generic slam on a 13 year old vehicle not in production. Find problem first, then replace defective part. There are ford dealers around Stony Plain if there are no competent mechanics in the repair shops there (Slam against the mechanics you deal with). parts - auto...

Sounds like the problem expanded - horn not working? The Horns suck a$$, not sure if the terminals rust or what but they usually fail or sound very weak.

late reply, but it sounds like some fuses blew. you can go to fleetford.com, and download a owners manual for your truck if you do not already have the owners manual. in that manual all the fuses, amperages, and functions will be listed for the 3? fuseboxes in the truck

seems quite the struggle, the pushrod is more for getting the key out - may have sent you down the wrong rabbit hole. - the pushrods purpose seems to only be to activate a switch so you can pull key out in park. video to watch on that subject : 06bluez has a post in this thread post #17 - read...

Well I am guessing at things, and it is not good to randomly change parts without verifying fault. There are some posts in the forum about replacing the rod (some with aftermarket home made parts) I would temporarily bypass the shift interlock, it is just a solenoid that pushes a locking...

being a solenoid(activated valve), it would measure a short if possibly functional - or a very low resistance. with valve connector disconnected, (and measuring in the connector that plugs into valve - not valve itself) you should measure 12V on one side of the connector and nothing or ground...

I would just disable that function, but there is a chance the problem may be a broken pushrod, when you press the button on the shifter knob, it pushes a rod down (plastic rod)inside that shifter, which is known to break. With motor off and in park, (in run position without being started)...

being it is a solenoid (a piece of wire), you will measure 12V on both sides when not engaged. From reading these few posts: I understand the purge valve has a constant 12V through a fuse/fusebox on run circuit (that part is working) The PCM will pull the other side of that valve (not fuse...

never done it, but found this youtube video - may help , is the long black piece on the right in the picture (air vent going to rear console vents)?