Recent content by BobWiersema

If the neutral switch was bad it wouldn't crank. What happened when you hit it with starting fluid?

Even if PATS is locking it out it will fire with ether so try that. Definitely check for error codes. The best free software out there is FORScan for Android. I believe there is a Windows version too. Would be worth it to pick up a noid injector tester too. For the Theft light, I don't know...

Mine did the same thing just before the crank position sensor completely died. No codes set. It was just a lucky guess finding the problem. Or more of a start with the cheapest stuff repair.

Not sure where you get the 195-198 but the engine came with a 180. I have the same engine in a 98. It's the second factory engine and they both came with 180° thermostats. The engine has never reached 200° even towing on a hot day with the a/c on. It runs between 175-185.

It's the speed sensor, probably the front one. Pull it out and clean it. Fine metal from wear can build up on it and interfere. You should have a stored error code like P1836. Here's the thread from when I had problems with mine. P1836 Transfer case Speed Sensor Part numbers in there too...

How long did you run it? Lifters might still be dry. You did pull the pins on the tensioners right?

Here's how to check blank keys for compatibility. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1581

You can program keys with the Forscan software if you only have one key. I think I paid five buck for the android version. It's excellent software for Fords. Here's a link to the PATS stuff: How to program PATS using FORScan v2.3.* - FORScan forum

That's not where you read engine temperature. Engine should run around 180 so I'm not sure what you're even asking here. You wouldn't want it to run any cooler. It's not designed to.

Also disconnect the battery first. The Pats transceiver has constant power.

I've had this problem before. The wire connection from the RFID receiver around the ignition gets yanked every time the wheel is tilted and eventually breaks. If you look under the steering column you should be able to find a little 4 wire connector from the ignition. Cut the connector out...

That's a interesting idea. I have the old ScanXL software from Palmer Performance with the Ford extra stuff. I'm sure there's a PID to read those. I'll check that out this weekend. Parts will be here from RockAuto tomorrow.

I've changed it a few time but don't remember when the last time was. I'll change it again this weekend when I get the new sensor in.

The issue with it is I'm a moron. The CV joints were binding up on low speed turns so I just figured they went bad and replaced them. That did nothing. Then I decided it might be a good idea to dust off the old computer with the all the software and see what's really wrong with it. That's...

Don't go to all that trouble. I'll get under it this weekend and start taking things apart. It just baffles me that not one single part store or even Ford has a listing for that model year part. They all start with year 2002.