Recent content by Dan R

Radio display was flickering, engine was misfiring throughout range and it started to cut out. I hope that I fixed all this by replacing alternator voltage regulator and brushes. No more flickering and much reduced hesitation. Will finish off the job with a new 4G alternator to starter solenoid...

I think I found out. It is the oil pressure switch, C197.

Get the tie rods replaced. The difference in steering will be great. Far less slop.

I am currently replacing the heads and head gaskets on a 1993 3.0L V6. Looking at the engine from the front there is something to the left of where the distributor is. It comes out of the back of the engine, looks like a sensor, has an oil weep at its base and a wire comes out of the top of it...

Thanks.

Is there a gasket in the union between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe? It looks like there might be. I am in the process of replacing my warped heads.

From what I can see it starts at the head gasket, the edge of which is wet. There is no sign of leaking occurring further up. The lower intake is dry. Hard to check the water pump flange completely. I didn't think head gaskets would leak externally. Seems they do?

There is coolant dribbling down the front left of the engine and running off the frame cross beam. Is the lower intake gasket the most likely suspect? Could it be a head gasket? Thanks for the tips.

I cleaned the MAF, didn't look dirty. I did notice that one of the electrical connector pins was white with corrosion. Cleaned it up put Noalox on the pins and it runs as before. This is odd as the connector is sealed with a rubber gasket but the corrosion was obvious. Thanks guys!

It drives OK until it suddenly dies. Usually it can be restarted immediately.

I have a very annoying problem. Engine starts up and runs well. Then after about 10 min starts to cut out. Either when moving when it hiccups and restarts or when idling when it can be immediately restarted. The Check Engine light flickers on and off (1993 model OBD I). The voltmeter flickers a...

Muriatic acid, available at the hardware store, is a great rust converter. I spray it on the frame.

Motorcraft has a 197F thermostat with a jiggle valve. I didn't notice any difference on the temp gauge. The Motorcraft radiator cap is 16 psi rather than 13 on the aftermarket ones.

I have had good success with felpro thermostat gaskets. It can be a bit fussy. Put antiseize on the thermostat cover bolts.

I removed the high pressure hose and the associated fitting that holds in the pressure regulator. Tapped the neck with a rubber mallet and off came the reservoir. I was going to replace the nipple with a brass fitting but I have ordered a replacement Dorman reservoir.