Recent content by dkl

As mentioned in this thread, the early 2002 (before 3/04/2002) had a 15mm toe link stud on the rear knuckle. The upgraded one is 17mm, which also requires a new toe link. When replacing my rear bearings, I installed the MOOG knuckle and bearing assembly, LK001 (left) and LK002 (right). For...

If you have already done the timing chains, I wouldn't hesitate to take a 2002. I have the 5R55W and it had the classic problems early on (40K miles). Slow engagement in reverse would literally throw you forward. Also a little harsh on coast-down shifts. Dealer replaced the solenoid body and...

I have the original factory authorized manuals for my 2002. I find them invaluable. I think they are from Helm Inc. https://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=https://www.google.com/

I went with MOOG bearing and hub assemblies for the front, $107 from Rock Auto. Be sure to follow directions for setting the preload. Went with MOOG knuckles that have the bearing pressed in for the rear, $212 also from Rock Auto. I think MOOG uses high quality National bearings, great fit...

It should easily cycle back into Park if everything works. Insert key, turn to ON position, foot firmly on brake, move shift selector. If it's really difficult to move, you might have a problem with the shift interlock and/or ignition. What happens if you unlock the truck, pull the horn fuse...

Yes, it's frustrating. I was stumped and came to the conclusion that I had an intermittent electrical problem, a pinched or exposed wire. I pulled up the wiring in the kick panels, under the door sills and around circuit boxes, checked for power and continuity on everything I could. I had...

According to the manual for the 2002, the truck has a Perimeter anti-theft system and a Passive anti-theft system. The Perimeter system consists of the door ajar switches, a driver door disarm switch, the keyless entry remote transmitter and the central security module. Once armed, the audible...

If the circuit box looks the way I described it, you can also pull the Blower Motor relay and try it in the Starter relay slot. The Blower Motor relay is the one to the left Starter relay (as you are facing the front of the truck).

Good battery voltage doesn't mean it has enough amps to crank, but if you are sure the battery is good, and you are getting no cranking or clicking, I would check the following. This pertains to a 2002 4.0L, manufactured in 06/2001: In the underhood circuit box, check the starter relay. There...

Mine also had pressure, at least when I was checking it. I also replaced the relays and checked the voltage coming out of the inertia switch. I had spark and no ECM codes. The position sensor and fuel filter seemed unlikely causes given my mileage and maintenance. All random and it went on...

Sounds like a fuel pump going out, possibly the armature, worn brushes or thermal issue. Next time it does it, try the tap test, lightly tap the bottom of the tank with a mallet. Sometimes that will get you going but it won't solve the problem. Also check the fuel pump cut-off switch (inertia...

My Ford shop manual for the 2002 4.0L SOHC shows; manifold intake; 10 Nm (89 Lb-in) these are the eight bolts that secure the plastic intake spark plugs; 20 Nm (15 Lb-ft) Sorry I can't confirm these torques for the 2004.

Electronic cat #1180 crosses over to Ford part number 1A124 (retainer) Electronic cat #HN3 crosses over to Ford part number W710084 (nut, adjusting screw) Useage; the VIN used to pull this info is from a 2002 Explorer XLT 4wd, build date 06/2001 Not sure why you are having trouble with...

The rear wheel bearings will start to fail long before you are able to detect any free play. The noise they make, resonating through the (sheet metal) disc brake dust shield sounds like studded snow tires on spring slush. It's a loud drone that only gets worse the faster you go. Try putting...

So did you also check the right rear? Is that mud in there, almost looks like flood damage.