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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I'm having a problem with my steering where it will get real hard, almost like the pump went out, and it's also very jerky and not smooth. I don't think it's the pump as it is making no noise at all. My sheering shaft does have a lot of play however. I'm thinking the u-joint is getting bound...
In my searches I've found that some people have had problems with the LMC springs sagging quickly but I'm not sure if those where isolated incidents or not.
VISA gets you $50 off. Plus here's the rebate form:
http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/promotions/Monroe_WhatShocksYouRebate_US_WEB.pdf
I'll be getting a set of 4 Sensatracs for $100 provided I don't get jacked around with the rebate. Can't ask for much more than that.
Every truck is different. On my old truck, which saw countless winters, I never had a problem getting the top bolt out and the balljoint disconnected. With my current truck, I had to beat the ever living crap out of it. Heat is key too.
Honestly a quote of $800 for all that is pretty reasonable. Not that I would pay it, but it's reasonable.
And Explorers have weird alignment issues. Camber adjusters are cheap and easy to install. The camber is not adjustable from the factory, the shop is not lying to you about that.
You do not want to use these on the front even if you found a length that fit. They would essentially make your front end solid. They are fine to use out back though.
Those fuel lines are a pain. I battled those on my old 4.0 and I was hoping they would be routed differently on the 5.0....not the case. I unclipped them and carefully pryed them out of the way with a screwdriver while I rotated the bolt in just the right way.
It could be the position sensor...take it off and make sure it moves freely. Even if it moves freely, it could still be bad (mine was). It's a $20 part so you may consider replacing it before the EGR.