Recent content by hworksinc

That's for the rear fog light for the Canadian spec Explorers. Some US Explorers have the same bumper (with the cutouts) with plain reflectors installed rather than the red rear fog lights.

That would be my first guess. I'm relatively sure that the 1998 does not have the LOM (1997 was the last year).

There are two vacuum lines that go into the blower box. One is an output from the HVAC controls that operates the heater control valve that DaExplorer pointed out. The other is the vacuum line that feeds the HVAC controls (the flaps that direct airflow are all vacuum operated). This line...

Your mismatched tires are most likely the issue. For a minute, I thought you had the 5.0 AWD, in which case the mismatched tires would be an even larger issue. I can explain why the code reader was unable to give you more detailed information. The ABS light being on is the key - this indicates...

That's for a newer version of the EATC system. For the 1998-2000 Explorer (possibly 1995-1997 as well), this is the proper troubleshooting information. This is from He did a conversion from manual to EATC in his Ranger using the Explorer EATC system. There is a very good description of the...

Just noticed I never updated this with the complete resolution. Like I said, the main problem ended up being the coil pack. On examination of the old coil pack, there was a good amount of rust on the exposed metal on the bottom. I broke it apart and it appears that moisture had gotten inside and...

A PCM replacement/reprogramming would only be necessary if the engine or transmission was replaced with a different type than was in the vehicle originally. Each PCM program for the Explorer is designed to work with a certain engine type and transmission type - they are not uniquely programmed...

Sorry for the delay in updating - got a bit slammed with work the past few days. Long story short, the problem was the ignition coil even though it tested ok electrically. I'll post details soon. Thanks again for all the help!

Hi all, I've never had to use the 911 forum before, and I sure hope someone here can help ASAP. The title says it all - starting a few weeks before Christmas, my truck has been unable to start (or very hard starting) when the temperature dips into the single digits (Fahrenheit). My truck is a...

I have exactly the same noise. I assumed it was timing chain rattle, though I've always been suspicious that it may be something else, since it sounds more plastic-y than metallic. Same as yours, it occurs around 2500-2700 RPM, sound like it's coming from behind the instrument cluster, doesn't...

If you're thinking about running the amp for any amount of time with the engine off, you should consider a 2 battery system. Here's why: Starting batteries (like the Red-top) are designed to provide very high amperage output (cranking amps). However, this comes at the cost of total capacity -...

If you're talking about the little rectangle bolted to the engine, that's the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback EGR) sensor. It's part of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system.It's recommended to buy an OEM replacement, as the aftermarket ones are known to have problems.

Either the rack is messed up, or there is still a ton of air in the system. This is a known issue when air gets into the PS system, but usually nowhere near that bad. There are a few threads around here on it, and more videos on YouTube...

All the stock head units I've seen from '98-'01 use LED's, which shouldn't burn out. If you want to look, you'll need the special Ford radio tool to pull the radio. There should be 2 or 4 screws holding the faceplate on, then it just snaps off.

Did you put the bulb in the "new" $4 switch? If so, you probably grabbed one from a '95-'97 model that had a more blue-ish illumination color. The bulbs are clear (at least mine were) - the color filter is in the button. If you put the new clear bulb in your original switch, you should have the...