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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
My battery was going bad but even with a jump the engine would turn over. I put a new battery in today and it doesn't make a sound. I think I can hear the fuel pump go on. I have 1 key and 2 key FOBs. The key FOBs both work but still can't get it to turn over.
I have a 2004 Explorer with dual climate control. I recently replaced the engine and now the flow controls aren't working. They were working before I replaced the engine. I checked the vacuum on the line in the engine compartment and it has vacuum. Why aren't the controls working?
This whole thing would have been easier if I disconnected the transmission like I did anyway and pulled the engine and transmission forward a few inches then you can get to all the bolts
I need to remove my rear drive shaft. I don't have any 12 point sockets so I need to know the bolt size on the drive shaft so I can get a 12 point socket tomorrow.
I pulled out the center console and there is an access panel but it's too far back and can't get to the 2 upper bolts. I'm now looking at disconnecting the shift cable to get to the left upper bolt. I don't know about the right upper bolt since I can't see it. There has to be an easier way to...
I'm trying to get the top 2 transmission bolts out. I've seem some people remove the transmission support but there's a bolt to close too the exhaust pipe and another bolt for a heat shield too close to the exhaust pipe. I've see other post saying there is an access panel under the center...
I have the oil pan off and two rods are broken. Most of it is in the oil pan but one rod it jammed on the top of the block preventing the engine from turning.
I looked at it again. Looks like if I drop the sway bar and the front differential I could take the oil pan down and hopefully access the broken rod. Any thoughts?
What about this for a plan... Disconnect the motor mounts then lift the engine as much as I can then take the oil pan off and try to remove the broken rod.
I'm sure it's a broken rod. The engine was knocking really bad before it died. If the take the engine and trans together how do I separate them once out. I guess once out I can roll them over take the oil pan off and take the broken rod out. Any easier way to get this engine out?
I looked at the new engine and there's a hole on the opposite side from the starter. I went under to look and there was a rubber plug. I pulled it out and that's the tc access point. Now I can't turn the engine more than a 1/4 turn. I can only get to 1 tc bolt. How do I get the engine out if I...
I finally got the starter out. It has 3 bolts holding it in. I was able to rotate the engine backwards until a tc bolt was in the starter hole. I don't see any way to get the bolt out. It's too far in the opening. How do I get these out?