Recent content by Mlarv5

The new IOS is out and they have made some great changes to the Car Play interface. One of them is your passenger can change the music on the phone and not mess up your navigation. I pretty much drive alone so I just play what I want. The entire interface for the phones etc have changed for...

Not sure if they are wired for it or not, but the seat has to allow the air to blow though it. Depending on the material the seat is made from will make a difference. There are aftermarket seat heaters available, also aftermarket cool and heat. Just ask Mr Google and see what he can find.

What does the rest of the tread on your tires look like. It might be it needs tires or an alignment.

So my bet it the 2020 does not have the same firmware as the 2018. That is why the error. Can yo do any other things to the 2020? They are new enough you may be the one to go out and test what is possible. Maybe #Platinumowner will chime in on the 2020

What error message are you getting? Did you do an extended license? We need a few more details before we can Swag it. Mike

I want to know why a 2017 has to pay $149 for the USB update or $109 if I download it? My maps are way out of date. I use Car-play and Waze so I don't really care but still why should someone that bought a 17 have to pay while someone that bought an 18 or newer does not?

As stated you need a good USB cable the cheap ones just don't work well. On your phone ensure you have AA setup up correctly. On the radio go to settings and look for the Android Auto Icon and make sure it is enabled. That is about as easy as it gets. What type phone are you trying to use?

I understood that. I am just saying it will put a lot of unexpected forces on the front end not designed for it. I know I wouldn't do it. Because of the reasons I mentioned, it will stress all the parts in the front end. Pushing a five foot wide twelve inch high load of wet snow is not as...

Having plowed before with a 1980 F150, I would not even think of adding a plow to an Explorer. You will destroy your front end ball joints CV joints sway bars etc in one season. If you hit a curb or a bump in the road etc. I rebuilt my front end three times on my F150 in the 8 years I used...

My bet would be the fume recall. Start in the rear and pop off the plastic panels. Do you have a volt ohm meter? If so start by pulling all the bulbs and read both sides to ground. If not then pull the plastic panels and look for a nicked wire by one of the push pins.

I think you answered your own question. You have already burnt out a switch by running to much current though it for to long. There is no way to extend it past the twenty minutes that I know of. As for a dealer service person telling me they don't see a problem with something, I take that...

If you are pretty good with computers and stuff, check out a Program called Forscan. It allows you to change settings for a lot of things. There is a power point time out setting you can adjust, I am just not sure of the perimeters it allows you to set. There is one here on this forum just...

Pretty much dealer part only if it is a TEDS unit.

I have opened the seat backs a few time to add a Seat Guru kit to make the airflow better by getting the exhaust air out of the back and down to the floor. Opening the backs is pretty easy, I am not sure what they are talking about but everything I have seen in there look pretty straight...

I think you are SOL. I am pretty sure those air pumps get hot and burn out pretty fast is why they don't do it. I normally let it run its course on a long drive then let it set for ten or fifteen minutes before turning it on again.