Recent content by SoHK_alumni

How well (or not) did the limited slip rear diff work? One wheel spinning with other stationary? Or both rear wheels spinning and rear sliding sideways? If only one wheel spins, time for new clutches in diff. If both wheels spin, dropping pressures a bit and adding weight to back of truck.

Both the keys and lock wear and at some point, start giving problems. The.good news, the lock cylinder is both inexpensive and very easy to replace. Better news is new door locks are even less expensive and can be bought un-keyed so its easy to match new door locks to the new ignition key.

Yep, a/c wiring is the trickiest bit of the Expo V8 - Ranger swap. Control logic between the two is very different. The Ranger should have a 4 pin connector below the master cylinder that has/had the high pressure switch wires

The 'Stang rims have a very different offset than the oem Explorer ones, but nothing a decent set of hub centric spacers can't correct. Just measure the back spacing of both rims, subtract the smaller from larger. Then subtract 1/2 the difference of rim widths. That'll keep center line of...

Yep, evap core not that difficult. 3 fasteners under hood and very bottom one in passenger's floor board area and the whole housing comes free. Move cruise control module, windshield washer and coolant reservoir. As noted, you'll want to replace a/c accumulator. Best to wait until just about...

MAF, FPR or fuel pump are all suspects for both banks going lean at same time. Try cleaning the MAF 1st then check fuel pressure.

Wonder if a Dakota Digital interface might be the answer. Grab the speed signal output from the ABS unit (grey/black wire) and adjust the Dakora output to keep the PCM and speedo happy. Not a ton of money.

Auto temp control or manual? Either can fail. Under hood, PCM, low pressure switch near a/c blower and high pressure switch near battery all control relay for a/c clutch. Pressure switches pretty easy to unplug and test bypass with bent paper clip. If either have failed, they can be replaced...

Dorman 47076 is about $15.00, might need a couple vacuum line connectors. Reservoir should have vacuum check valve built into it, or you can add one to the inlet.

Commonly, the available in-line filters are sized to fit the liquid high pressure line between the condenser and orifice tube. Just before the orifice tube is likely the best place. But... with a new condenser, I think just taking the time to flush out the hose assemblies is all that is...

Just ignore PATS. The 97 5.0 PCM has no PATS so no worries. Only accommodation you'll need to make on the Ranger side of PATS is to permanently ground the starter solenoid's relay. Single wire at that 42 pin connector will go to ground rather than to the Ranger's PCM.

Yes, a double din unit will go in. Adapter kits are available to fill in the minor gaps, the ones I've seen need the support rail to actually carry the weight of the head unit.

The heater control valve's vacuum source shares a plug under the blower motor with the vacuum source from the vacuum reservoir under the air cleaner. Both tubes pass through the bottom of the air box and route to the a/c - vent control. Pretty sure the heater control valve tube is "T'd" to the...

Certainly take the time to pop out the accumulator piston and check the bore and the springs. Broken accumulator springs is a common failure in the 4R70W

If the transfer case won't support a VSS, consider using the ABS module and G-Force sensor from a '98 - '01 Explorer and add the wiring between the two. The.later ABS modules DO use the ABS wheel/axle sensors to calc and generate the same speed signal as the VSS. No need to open up the...