no dims - all others work

[KlimFord]

'91 EB. Turned on my headlights last evening and found the dims were not working so had to drive home in a snowstorm with only high beams (yikes!). All other lights work, but no dims. I assume there is no separate fuse for dim lights so suspect either the headlight switch on the dash or the multi-switch on the column. Which would you think is the more likely culprit?

 

[arco777]

I would look at the headlight switch. Had a Fox Mustang headlight switch that failed and the only way to get home was holding the multifunction switch in the flash-to-pass position. Pulling the switch isn't the most fun but once it's out you can test the contacts with a multimeter and check that the switch is operating properly. I have had the stock switch fail in a way that it gets hot inside and breaks connection. So worth checking out.

The multifunction switch is probably a bit easier to remove, worthwhile to test that one too before throwing parts at it.

 

[KlimFord]

Thanks for the info, Arco777.

I've since read that the headlight switch only controls on/off for dim and bright together, so if the dims don't work the brights shouldn't work either, but they do. What do you think?

Is there a trick to getting the shrouds off the steering column to get at the mfs without removing the steering wheel on a Gen 1? I see no screws holding it on.

 

[arco777]

If I recall correctly the shroud is two pieces held together by two screws. From the underside they should be accessible through recessed holes. Once the shroud is off, it's only a few more screws to remove the multifunction switch.

Removing the steering wheel is actually really easy. Remove the two screws on the backside of the steering wheel trim, allowing you to remove the front horn pad. Once that comes off and you disconnect the wiring connector, remove the nut holding the steering wheel down on the shaft. Then, with the column locked or wheels blocked, turn the wheel hard left and right as you pull towards you, and it will come right off the shaft.

 

[arco777]

I've since read that the headlight switch only controls on/off for dim and bright together, so if the dims don't work the brights shouldn't work either, but they do. What do you think?

Probably true, hadn't thought about it much. But that does make sense. The multifunction switch is more likely the culprit then. The only other piece in this system is the flash-to-pass module...

 

[KlimFord]

Where's the flash-to-pass module in relation to the multi-function-switch? Could that cause the dims to not work?

 

[arco777]

I am honestly not sure where it's located. It's not a well known failure point - the multifunction switch is.

 

[KlimFord]

The mfs sounds like the logical place to start. I'll see what I can find. Thanks again.

 

[KlimFord]

OK. Minus 5 degrees here in the Colorado hay barn but I managed to get the steering column covers off without removing the steering wheel and without breaking anything. You have to go at it like you really want to get them off. Tilt the steering wheel up and there are two recessed screws on the bottom that holds the top and bottom halves together. They are Phillips head screws for those of you like me that can't contort any more to see up in the deep recessed holes. Bottom half off first, then tilt the wheel down and pry and manhandle to get the top one off.

Ordered a new switch from ebay for under $50. Will let you know if that fixes the no dims problem.

 

[KlimFord]

Installed a new MFS today but to no avail. Dim headlights still won't come on. Brights and all others work. Checked headlight fuse in distribution center on firewall and it appears to be fine. Headlight bulbs look good, filaments intact.

Any other ideas on what could be causing dims not to work?

 

[FR-425]

There is also a fuse in the interior fuse panel.

The Head lamp push pull switch does have two separate contacts for high and low circuits.

They draw power from the same main fuse though, so if you have highs but no lows and the fuse is good the switch would be the failure.

Like arco777 said the switch is the common failure point. Same on the Rangers (no lows but still have high beams = switch)

 

[KlimFord]

Looking at the diagram for the under dash fuse box I don't see any fuses labeled for headlights.

I thought the the dashboard light switch simply turns on high and low together and wasn't aware it has separate contacts for high and low beam. Knowing that, it sounds like the likely culprit and the next logical piece to replace. Thanks for the info.

 

[FR-425]

Looking at the diagram for the under dash fuse box I don't see any fuses labeled for headlights.

I thought the the dashboard light switch simply turns on high and low together and wasn't aware it has separate contacts for high and low beam. Knowing that, it sounds like the likely culprit and the next logical piece to replace. Thanks for the info.

Yep my bad, on the fuse.

The 91's don't have it. Or maybe it's for the auto lamp, bla, bla

 

[KlimFord]

Well, I now know how to replace the push-pull headlight switch on a Gen 1. But my dims still do not work. I'm down to the headlamps themselves, both of which look fine, filaments intact, as about the last thing in the headlight system to replace. What else could it be? What are the odds of both dim lamps going out at the same time?

 

[FR-425]

Does your EB have the DRL module installed? (daytime running lights)

Forgot the EB has some of the Limited edition equipment.

If so, you need to have a look at that.

I don't have the DRL module on my 94' but it is wired for it. the plug on mine is secured out of the way and capped, near the left head light.

I would guess that yours is in the same spot, just mounted differently for the module.

On the second gens the DRL causes the exact same symptoms; no lows, but everything else works.

Since mine does not have it, but is wired for it; I stands to reason that simply removing it will regain the low beams. However this could be the old foot in the mouth, mine does have a cap on it which may serve as a bypass connector.

Here' what the mod looks like:
http://www.carid.com/1991-ford-explorer-electrical-parts/dorman-drl-module-16850757.html

 

[KlimFord]

I don't believe it has the DRL module - we've had the vehicle since new and the driving lights have never come on during the day. There is an unfamiliar pigtail that comes out of a wire nest near the left headlight and deadends into a socket attached near the radiator.

 

[larrydd999]

I think at this point you should test for voltage at the headlight (either one). Because it's so easy - relatively speaking - that's where I would go first. It's not unreasonable that both dim filaments would fail more-or-less simultaneously. I once had two fail in less than a week on the same vehicle. Also, the bright filament and dim filament are fed from separate wires (of course) so you could also have a bad connection or broken wire.

 

[KlimFord]

Thanks, larrydd999 (sound of hand slapping forehead), I should have started with that weeks ago. Just tested the left headlight plug (had to put small brads in the slots for the multi-meter to make contact) and there's juice to both high and low beams. To me that means it has to be a bad bulb. You?

 

[larrydd999]

KlimFord, that would be my guess... If you haven't replaced the lamps already, I'd go for the Sylvania 'silverstar' (I think that's what they are called). Wally World has them, as well as most automobile parts houses. I replaced the standard bulbs in both of our Gen1vehicles with them and it really made a difference. I do intend to replace the lens assemblies soon due to water leakage and becoming more opaque due to age.

 

[KlimFord]

larrydd999, I ordered a pair of EiKO PowerVision from Amazon. I'll let you know how (and if) they work. I need to replace the lenses as well as they have glaucoma really bad.