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Newbie 4x4 question

Jscottshanks

New Member
Joined
March 21, 2017
Messages
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City, State
San Francisco
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Explorer LTD V8
Hi all, I just got a 2002 Explorer Limited v8 4x4 and I'm having problems with the wheels spinning when backing out of my driveway. The driveway is super steep downhill, and when I park on the right side of it, it has an additional slope to the right at the end which then flattens out. So backing out of this monster is no problem for my 2WD Dodge Grand Caravan, but the Explorer starts spinning wheels as soon as I hit the slope, especially when I try to get over the "hump" at the bottom. This hump actually puts one wheel in the air as I make a reverse "S" turn - so that may have something to do with it, but even in the flat, if it's wet I have to go super slow or I lose traction. Best results are in 4x4 low, but not much better.

So I when I got this car, it had 20" rims on it with low profile tires (ridiculous o_O), which I switched out for stock 17" with Michelin Defenders. I'm wondering if the aftermarket wheels messed with the traction control or PCM in some way? It's my first 4x4 so I just assumed it would be able to handle this much better than my 2WD van, but it sounds like a sideshow when I back out. Any suggestions are much appreciated!! Thanks!
 



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I would question if your 4x4 clutch is working and engaging the front wheels at all, because if the front wheels are engaged it should have no problem pushing the vehicle up hill from the front.

Do you know if you have a limited-slip diff in the rear?

What is your axle code on the door tag?
 






If your car does not have limited slip differentials, front and rear, it is a one wheel drive which can shift into two wheel drive. Another factor is that the frame is very stiff. I have jacked up the front and placed two jack stands. Then I jacked up one side in the rear and the opposite corner in the front raised up off the jack stand.

I have never seen a car do that before, but I have never had to jack up all 4 corners to listen for a noise in the drive line. (Now I have done the, "brown wire" mod and I can turn off the front drive.)
 






I would question if your 4x4 clutch is working and engaging the front wheels at all, because if the front wheels are engaged it should have no problem pushing the vehicle up hill from the front.

Do you know if you have a limited-slip diff in the rear?

What is your axle code on the door tag?

It's a D4 Limited slip.. I think you're right, my front wheels must not be engaging. I have similar problems with RWD cars.. Thanks!
 






I would question if your 4x4 clutch is working and engaging the front wheels at all, because if the front wheels are engaged it should have no problem pushing the vehicle up hill from the front.

Do you know if you have a limited-slip diff in the rear?

What is your axle code on the door tag?

From what I've read around here, since my dashboard light 4x4 light still lights up, but the 4x4 is not engaging, I've got a bad control module. I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
 






From what I've read around here, since my dashboard light 4x4 light still lights up, but the 4x4 is not engaging, I've got a bad control module. I'll give that a shot. Thanks!

Um it's usually the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case which gets destroyed by improper towing or different tire sizes on the front and rear. Any repo records on the vehicle?
 






Um it's usually the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case which gets destroyed by improper towing or different tire sizes on the front and rear. Any repo records on the vehicle?

Thanks TechGuru.. I don't have any records, but it I know it was definitely used for towing by 1st owner - second owner put on the wheels. Is there a test I can do to verify it's the EMC?
 






Um it's usually the electromagnetic clutch in the transfer case which gets destroyed by improper towing or different tire sizes on the front and rear.
A suicidal gear box? that dies over uneven tire wear? Glad I installed the Brown Wire Mod before my tires got worn!
 






A suicidal gear box? that dies over uneven tire wear? Glad I installed the Brown Wire Mod before my tires got worn!
not so much uneven wear, but uneven tire sizes.

Like when you have 20" rims, bust one in a pothole, can't afford a replacement, so you buy one 16" rim from the junkyard and drive around on it with the left front wheel sitting on an overall 2" smaller diameter tire/wheel combo.

That is enough to make the tire rotate slower and kick on the "Control-Trac" thinking that the one wheel with the smaller overall diameter is skidding on snow.
 






not so much uneven wear, but uneven tire sizes.
Well, I'm still happy with the Brown Wire Mod. One less thing to go wrong.
I have driven a 5300 pound Econoline across a corn field in Kentucky with one wheel drive. If I can do that, I don't need 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive on the flat roads of Florida. It feels nice to have a "4WD" switch in case I ever have it parked in the back yard during a 3 day tropical rain and the whole place turns to mud up to your ankles, but I don't need it jumping in and out of gear while I'm backing out of a driveway or turning in a grocery store parking lot. This whole, "2 wheel drive" feature on my Explorer might see 40 more seconds of use between now and the great parking lot in the sky.
 






A suicidal gear box? that dies over uneven tire wear? Glad I installed the Brown Wire Mod before my tires got worn!


Brown wire mod WILL NOT SAVE THE CLUTCH due to different tire/wheel sizes or improper towing.
 






Brown wire mod WILL NOT SAVE THE CLUTCH due to different tire/wheel sizes.
Really? It can be destroyed even if the front wheel drive never engages? That's some real fine engineering!
I have never thought about designing an electronic device that can be destroyed by never turning it on.:dunno:
Then I think of ink jet cartridges that go bad on the shelf, before anybody buys them, and if you do install a good one, it's shot in 30 days even if you never use it. There are probably several other examples.
This really shows how poor my education is.:oops:
 






Really? It can be destroyed even if the front wheel drive never engages? That's some real fine engineering!
I have never thought about designing an electronic device that can be destroyed by never turning it on.:dunno:
Then I think of ink jet cartridges that go bad on the shelf, before anybody buys them, and if you do install a good one, it's shot in 30 days even if you never use it. There are probably several other examples.
This really shows how poor my education is.:oops:

From what I've read my understanding is that it still has drag even when not engaged, it's designed to allow slippage when making turns, etc not to be constantly slipping going down a straight highway. Getting towed improperly by only lifting the rear off the ground is even worse, this is why I'd never buy a 4x4 exp with a repo record.

The only way to save it if one wants to run different tire/wheel sizes in the front/rear is to remove the front drive shaft.

I will mention that there is a transfer case neutral function that can be enabled by a Ford NGS computer that will allow one to tow it with all 4 wheels on the ground with a tow bar. I wish ForScan would add the ability to program this.

https://accessories.ford.com/neutral-tow-kit.html This is a rip off, you can make the light yourself for under $5, just need to find a Ford dealer willing to enable it in the computer for free/cheap.

http://ddwt.us/ourarticles-how_to_make_a_ford_explorer_dinghy_ready.htm
 






I don't desire different size tires in the front. I just desire a car that doesn't self destruct. The only reason I have a 2 wheel drive car (labeled as 4 wheel drive) is that it was in the family, the owner died, and it's pretty. If I knew it had all that extra crap in it, I might not have bought it for $7000 under retail. As far as I'm concerned, the front drive shafts (and transfer case) are parasites.
 






I don't desire different size tires in the front. I just desire a car that doesn't self destruct. The only reason I have a 2 wheel drive car (labeled as 4 wheel drive) is that it was in the family, the owner died, and it's pretty. If I knew it had all that extra crap in it, I might not have bought it for $7000 under retail. As far as I'm concerned, the front drive shafts (and transfer case) are parasites.

If you hate 4WD that much convert it to 2WD, it's not like it snows in FL but you won't be able to drive it on the beach.

Remove the front differential, drive shaft, and CV axles. Then to complete the conversion remove the transfer case. I don't know if you can swap the rear of the transmission to convert it to a 2WD output connection direct to drive shaft instead of mounting to a transfer case. You may have to swap the transmission, I'm not sure. It will definitely need the longer 2WD drive shaft.

Looking at pics I think it might be convertible without replacing the transmission, just get the drive shaft and backing plate from a junkyard off a 2WD model. Can anyone confirm?
 






just get the drive shaft and backing plate from a junkyard off a 2WD model.
The last time I needed a drive shaft, I had one custom made for a very reasonable price. If that's all it takes, I've got it whipped.:)
If it needs a backing plate, I have two good junque yards containing about 50 or 60 dead Explorers.:dead:
 






Looking at pics I think it might be convertible without replacing the transmission, just get the drive shaft and backing plate from a junkyard off a 2WD model. Can anyone confirm?
I was under the impression that you just needed to put the 2wd tailstock in place of the transfer case... that might just be on the manual transmission though.
 












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