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2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

After getting an estimate on how much it would run me to fix up my Xploder with all new exhaust, cold side piping, and a bunch of other stuff done up the "right" way... I've decided to convert my Xploder back to NA form so that I can actually ENJOY the truck before I die of old age.

Anyways... To start it off I ordered up a MAC cold air intake (I do not have the stock intake) and sold my FMS headers on ebay.

I plan on buying a set of torque monster headers in the next week or so but am still up in the air on how I should run my exhaust from a performance "speed" perspective. I do not plan on doing much, if any, off road driving, so am looking for a setup that improves take off and speed for spirited pavement driving that sounds good.

I already have the spare tire removed (and will be keeping it off, I have free towing anyways lol)... What would an optimal setup be with the above in mind and no worry of a spare tire being in the way? True duals (straight pipe off of each header, thru separate mufflers, and out the sides), or a dual exhaust both going into a 2 in 2 out "H" pipe style muffler and then out the sides? Or something else? In all cases I won't be running any cats.

I also plan to re-tune my car since currently it is tuned for the turbo setup which obviously will no longer apply once I rip everything out.

Thank you for any input! :)
 



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I need to charge the AC soon and had been watching some videos. I know if you replace the compressor and if it does not come already oiled that you need to oil the system. As I had NOT replaced my compressor (just everything else other than the lines) I assume I'd be fine without adding any oil?
 



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The oil is evenly spread through the system, so you need to add oil relative to how much volume of freon lines you replaced. If you opened the system and let atmosphere get to the drier for more than a very short time(hours), then that has absorbed moisture and should be replaced. I'd let an AC shop do the normal vacuum pull down on it, and add full freon and oil to it. The oil isn't expensive, and R134 isn't either. I go to Vol Radiator for my AC work, the owner Rob does me right.
 






Hmm.. I never replaced any lines but did add a new drier, new filter orifice thing that goes in the line itself, and a new condenser. I had the system opened up on and off a lot since replacing all of those parts so I'm sure atmosphere got to the new drier for more than a few total hours so I suppose I'd need to replace that again. Would atmosphere getting into the system damage anything else? Wonder how much it would cost most shops to pull vac and fill with freon and oil if I bring it in to a local place.
 






The labor/time for the vacuum process is the main labor, but most shops have a machine that does it all automatically. I think maybe $100 might do it for a complete working system needing freon and oil. I've never had one of my newer R134 vehicles done, and my old R12 cars have gotten over $100 due to the higher freon price.

I didn't mean to condemn your drier, let me rephrase and say it's best to not let air get into the system and the drier. The system works best if everything is optimized, no leaks, full of freon, oil, new drier and expansion valve etc. You can use that drier no doubt, it's just a less efficient part now. I'd ask a pro for an opinion on the effects, loss of efficiency etc. I'm just used to the saying to replace the drier when the system has been open for a long time. The shops say that, and we listen and get used to it.
 






Hi there willzilla :wave:

Nice ride! :thumbsup:

Another idea would be to replace your center console with a 12v portable air conditioner. You could then remove the factory AC and free up some space and weight under the hood (cleaner look too). May even be cheaper than replacing and recharging the entire stock AC system.

Just throwing it out there...
 






Hi there willzilla :wave:

Nice ride! :thumbsup:

Another idea would be to replace your center console with a 12v portable air conditioner. You could then remove the factory AC and free up some space and weight under the hood (cleaner look too). May even be cheaper than replacing and recharging the entire stock AC system.

Just throwing it out there...

Thank you!

Ac system is practically new (ordered another drier to be safe as they are cheap) so all it should need is charged up. The AC system never broke but I messed up the condenser while removing the radiator which is why I replaced the orifice, condenser and drier while the system was already opened up

Got off work early today and of course it's raining lol
 






Hi there willzilla :wave:

Nice ride! :thumbsup:

Another idea would be to replace your center console with a 12v portable air conditioner. ...

Just throwing it out there...

What kind of portable AC are you thinking of? I run mine at work with the window down when it gets into the 80's, or really humid. I'm sure my coworkers could like a new idea or option. The USPS big white trucks have no AC, but one cigarette lighter. I used to wonder what could be done for a portable device, when I drove one of those.
 






I'd think something like this would work for the usps trucks, although there are MANY other ones out there:
TC14-55.jpg


Thanks for allowing for this bit of thread highjacking Willzilla... :dpchug:
 






Interesting ideas, and maybe it creates another idea, a cooled seat cover. Hmm, It's stopped raining here, I need to get out and do my rear brakes(pad and rotor are fighting now).
 






I should have new brake hardware in tomorrow and it sounds like it will be a nice day so hopefully I'll get some time to get the brakes and such done :D
 






Finally, the rain should stay away for a few days. I had to do my rears yesterday, and finished in the light rain. I had no trouble swapping calipers in the back, though the pads now come with backing material that you have to cut to fit. I did that right before the rain began, about ten minutes of cussing the makers of the pads.
 






Finally, the rain should stay away for a few days. I had to do my rears yesterday, and finished in the light rain. I had no trouble swapping calipers in the back, though the pads now come with backing material that you have to cut to fit. I did that right before the rain began, about ten minutes of cussing the makers of the pads.

Lol.

I finally finished up with some other work around the house and am heading out to do at least my fronts (backs if I have time)... Paint and replacement. Also bought all new hardware for the brakes as well, figured why not while I'm on it. Also got in the replacement drier in today.
 






Good plan. Did you get the parking brake pads also, and that hardware? I did those last year with the first servicing. I was pleased to finally get the parking brakes to hold somewhat. The hardware wasn't critical, the thumb wheel was the main item I didn't know if the condition was good. I adjusted the parking pads out until it was very tight to install the rotor. That took over five minutes for each rotor. But the parking brakes do hold now, my other trucks never did worth talking about.
 






Hmm...

First time doing brakes on the explorer...

Are my calipers bad ? Took pads off and see ...

20170624_160504.jpg


The liquid is brake cleaner not yet dried.

And what looks like a bit of brake fluid ..

20170624_155729.jpg


...
 






Decided to just order all new calipers front and back that come alrdy powder coated red with all hardware.

Screenshot_20170624_171044_01.jpg


In the meantime I'll be painting the back plate behind the brakes thing and my wiper blade arms lol.
 






If the caliper piston boots are not torn or have cracks in the rubber, then they should be fine.

Avoid brake cleaner etc, on the rubber, sure spray it all but don't drown the rubber. Minimize the time any rubber or plastic is exposed to harsh cleaners. That's why brake cleaner is a preferred thing, it evaporates fast so does less harm when spraying around fragile stuff.

For the future, avoid removing the front caliper bolts, only take out the bracket bolts. The caliper bolts have grease in the assembly to the caliper, and removing them exposes the pins(bolts) an grease to air, and dirt. If you just remove the two large caliper bracket bolts, then the pins/grease remain undisturbed, less likely to be contaminated. it's a dirty job and most people aren't perfect, which creates faster wear of the calipers(the pins and bore those go through). Rebuilt calipers are great if the pin bores weren't worn much, but older cores often are.

The rear you have no choice, there are just the two caliper bolts. But those go through sliding pin sleeves that have grease enclosed around them. I to reattach one new boot when putting my rear calipers on.

When you install the rear calipers, go slow. It's easy to put them together, other than the pads are unique left and right. Look at the end notches on the pads, one end has no protruding tip, and the other end has one. The end with the extra tip goes to the bottom, it catches the bottom "foot" of the caliper bracket, and then the caliper rotates up onto the upper foot. The bottom hooks onto the bracket bottom, and the top pivots onto/against the bracket top. There is a SS hardware cover piece that goes onto each part of the caliper bracket. Those are identical, and they sometimes fall off. You can easily put them back, and hold the top one in place as you pivot the caliper up onto it.

When you are there setting a rear caliper onto the bottom bracket "foot", right then stop, look at the two sliding sleeves(the rubber boots on each end). Those want to come outward towards you. Those have to be pushed gently back(inward) enough to clear the caliper bracket(where the bolt threads are). You can usually do that by hand while pivoting the caliper up into place. Look at it a bit before you do it, noting what parts are coming together and have they fit etc. It's not hard at all, but if you didn't see the sleeve/boot being in the way of the threaded hole of the bracket, you might be frustrated the first time. No worries, you'll be fine.
 






Thanks for the tips/info! Hopefully in a week or so I'll be getting all new calipers and will replace them all at the same time. Just cleaned and painted the circular plate that goes behind the rotors a nice black color (much better than brake dust and rust color combo). Turned out pretty nice. Got stung twice working on the truck, once on the nose, ugh :( lol.

Pulled the rusty looking wiper arms off and then noticed a huge wasp nest under that vent cowl.. Went to take that off while being assaulted by wasps and broke it as it was extremely fragile barely touching it and it pretty much crumbled :-/ Will need to order new vent cowls at the STEEP $50ish for each piece, blah. Plan to either replace the wiper arms as well or paint them if possible while I'm at it.

Before the vent cowl split into a bunch of pieces at barely a touch...

20170624_192904.jpg


An awesome surprise with my brakes...

20170624_163101.jpg
 






Wasp nest, cool, were any of the spiders still alive?

Those cowl pieces are fragile, I think I only got one off without breaking any of the mounting tabs. I bought two and was going to paint the old ones to match the hood. Our hail years back cracked one, I should be two more if they are available.
 






Wasp nest, cool, were any of the spiders still alive?

Those cowl pieces are fragile, I think I only got one off without breaking any of the mounting tabs. I bought two and was going to paint the old ones to match the hood. Our hail years back cracked one, I should be two more if they are available.

Yeah.. There was another mud nest under the car full of spiders... ick lol.

The cowl vent was super brittle... Barely touched the corner and pieces just broke off... At that point I just pulled it off as the damage and state of the plastic was alrdy not good. Oddly enough all of the mounting tabs were fine for me (used interior removal kit) but the plastic around the edges just fell apart lol.
 



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Has been a slow week or so... Tons of storms and heat. All new calipers showed up today and I waited until the heat went down a bit around evening time and swapped the fronts onto the truck with the new pads and rotors. Turned out pretty nice and was fairly simply as the new calipers already have everything pushed in as they have no fluid in them and such so no need for a c-clamp or anything which quickened it all up a bit.

20170708_204225.jpg

20170708_204250.jpg

20170708_211645.jpg

Hopefully the calipers are on correctly, lol. Initially installed them "upside-down" I believe with the nipples on the bottom but checked a vid and saw they were supposed to be on the top so swapped it (noticed it after I just put on the 2 bolts but before pads and tightening everything down thankfully!). The black rotors look wonky, lol. If weather isn't bad tomorrow I'll knock out the rears and then put in new fluid and bleed everything though the fluid that dripped out swapped the brake cables looked pretty good surprisingly.
 






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