My Aerostar has a continuous warning chime.

[joshhemming]

Have any of you longtime Aerostar sufferers I mean owners ever had your warning chime constantly dinging when it shouldn't be?

Since my van had been sitting for about a week I decided to drive it today. It started normally, I buckled my seat belt and took off. The warning chime continued to ding. Instrument panel was normal; no warning lights. I stopped after a quarter of a mile and tried to locate the problem. So far I've tried:

Opening and securely closing all doors, including the real lift gate.
Unfastening and fastening both front seatbelts (rear seats removed a decade ago).
Fastening passenger seat belt, even though the seat is empty.
Engaging and disengaging the parking brake.
Topping off the brake master cylinder (it was below the MIN mark).
Operating the headlight switch on and off several times.

When I turn the ignition off and remove the key, the dinging stops. If I open the door with the key off but still in the ignition, it starts dinging but stops as soon as I remove the key. That's normal. The factory alarm system appears to be working fine....my remote locks and unlocks the doors and disengages the ignition kill circuit.

How odd that it develops this problem as soon as I put it up for sale!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Are you sure that it's the regular chime module, and not another module such as the air bag module?

 

[joshhemming]

Are you sure that it's the regular chime module, and not another module such as the air bag module?

Yes, I'm positive it's the solid state Warning Chime Module located just above the fuse panel. I actually removed the module, let it hang down by its cable harness then covered and uncovered the holes above the small speaker while driving to verify the dinging was coming from it. Plus if I pull fuse #18 (the one assigned to Warning Chime) the dinging stops. Unfortunately, that kills the Ammeter on the instrument panel, too.

I think the problem is in the module itself. I've ohmed out the seat belt switch and it's working just as designed: open when the belt is fastened, closed when unfastened. The Module's inputs from the "key in ignition and door open" and the "headlights on and door open" circuits appear to be correct, too.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Open the case of the module to check for damaged solder connections.

 

[Adam_tinkerer]

Mine did that, I just unplugged the module. Only thing I miss is the headlight reminder.

 

[joshhemming]

"Mine did that, I just unplugged the module. Only thing I miss is the headlight reminder."

Thanks. I'm surprised your ammeter still worked after unplugging the module. When I pulled the fuse for MY module, it temporarily killed my ammeter.

Anyway, I pulled the Warning Chime Module from a wreck at the junkyard (only tool required is a flat tip screwdriver, for bending up the connector locking tab) and put it in my Aerostar. Cost was $12.

It fixed the problem for two days, while preserving the normal chimes for seatbelt, headlight on and key still in ignition. It was working fine for most of the third day too but then started chiming when I was about midway home, for no apparent reason. When I get time I'll try disconnecting the seat belt input, then the ignition key input and finally the headlight switch input while the engine is running and it's chiming and see which one, if any, is the culprit.

I suppose the second module could be bad, too. But I doubt it. My ignition switch has been borderline flaky for 20 years but it's never been bad enough to replace it. It sometimes gives a warning chime when I open the door even if the key is NOT in it. If I gently touch the switch, it stops the chimes.

 

[Icuff4cash]

Have you checked your key. Mine was chiming like crazy then eather Brook or josh p said check key switch. I replaced it in less than 2 minutes. And it cost $10.00 and came with 2 keys got it at napa. Follow the instructions that come with the key . If you mess with it before installing it your toast. Don't follow the instructions about removing the key switch. No need to take apart the plastic columns shields. There's a small hole under the switch put a 4 inch long Allen wrench in the hole and twist the key 1/4 turn pops out new one pops in your done. But make sure the new one is seated all the way in.
THATS ONLY IF YOUR CHIMING IS THE KEY SWITCH.

 

[joshhemming]

"Have you checked your key. Mine was chiming like crazy then eather Brook or josh p said check key switch."

It probably is indeed the ignition switch. It's been flaky for years....sometimes chimes when the key is removed until I lightly tap on the switch, then stops. That CAN'T be right.

I've followed Adam's advice and simply unplugged the module. No more chimes of any kind!

Oddly enough, if I pull the fuse for the chime module it kills the instrument panel ammeter. Somehow they've wired the ammeter circuit through the chime module fuse. But pulling the connector from the module doesn't cause any electrical complications that I'm aware of.

 

[Icuff4cash]

Be careful if you pull the chine and its your switch. If the switch gos its a ******* to replace. Does your key act funny. I'm telling you because theres a lot of good info here and josh p and brooklin told me dont wait until the key fails............