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A cheaper solution than Accusump/ pre lube ??

persalls

Member
Joined
January 4, 2003
Messages
31
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1
City, State
Vellinge, Sweden;Europe
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 sport trac xlt
Hi guys! Always learning and thinking about enhancements I have changed the rear chain tensioner and got rid of the rattle except from cold start. I have read about Accusump but find it both complex and expensive but probably top notch and, of course, cheaper than a new engine I get it BUT... wouldnt it be possible to mount an electrical pump of some sort with just a switch to manually prime the system before hitting the starter? I´m not sure where to connect the lines but maybe someone here has the same thoughts and maybe a solution? Suction could probably come from the sump and pressure at the oilpressure-sender? Or am I wrong here? Would be nice to stretch engine life and reduce the rather embarrassing startup noise..

//Brg, Per
 



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Hi guys! Always learning and thinking about enhancements I have changed the rear chain tensioner and got rid of the rattle except from cold start. I have read about Accusump but find it both complex and expensive but probably top notch and, of course, cheaper than a new engine I get it BUT... wouldnt it be possible to mount an electrical pump of some sort with just a switch to manually prime the system before hitting the starter? I´m not sure where to connect the lines but maybe someone here has the same thoughts and maybe a solution? Suction could probably come from the sump and pressure at the oilpressure-sender? Or am I wrong here? Would be nice to stretch engine life and reduce the rather embarrassing startup noise..

//Brg, Per

We've had this conversation several times in the past 12 months. I was going to do this to my '01 Sport Trac. I'd sourced all the parts (except things like wire, hoses and clamps) for around $200 U.S., but decided that my current engine isn't worth saving.

I planned on using a sandwich style oil filter adapter as the point where an electric pump would send sump oil into the system, first filtering the oil through the oil filter. You would not want to sending unfiltered oil into the oil pressure switch port (not with all the junk you probably have in the bottom of a SOHC oil pan). I also planned to use a small pre-pump filter.

What I've been doing to eliminate the start-up rattle is to crank my engine with my foot to the floor on the accelerator, which turns off the fuel injectors, for about 8-10 seconds (less cranking time is required once started the first time of the day). This builds oil pressure so I don't get the rattle at start-up, or the SOHC starting RPM flare. I realize this will likely shorten the life of the starter motor, but I've been doing this for over a year now with no ill effects (plus starters are fairly cheap and easily rebuilt).
 






Search YouTube "pre oiler 2001 4wd sport trac" I've fitted pre oiler. As Phil (koda2000) says this was dicussed at length. Having said that it seems very few people fit pre oilers.
You take oil from oil pan (from drain plug) to pump, to sandwich connector at filter, oil goes through filter then into engine.
This setup works well and I've never had rattle since. No matter how many times you change the hydraulic tensioners it will not stop rattle at cold startup!!!
I live in Philippines, if my engine breaks timing components and jumps time my ST is toast as getting a new engine here is impossible, hence pre oiler. I see you live in Sweden so you know what I mean, anything purchased locally is a fortune, if available. I get my parts from Amazon in US, but an engine is out of the question.
That embarrassing rattle at startup will result in destroying your engine, pre lube will extend engine life IMO massively. The alternative is to replace timing components now before disaster happens but that's a big job.
 






Thanks guys! My problems almost like yours David and I understand your thoughts aswell Koda but to be clear. The sandwich connector has two ports, in and out, and is normally used to either relocate the oilfilter or connect an oilcooler? If i feed the pump from the sump into the "in-port" of the connector, do you just plug the "out-port" or where should it be connected? What kind of pump are you using David and is it just connected to a manual switch on the dash? I know the gaspedal-trick and have been using it since I read about it so it might be the easy way out of course but the electrical pump setup must be better in the sense that it will lube the engine before crank.

//Brg Per
 






Persalls see this thread " pre lube and centrifugal oil filters" it will answer all your questions. My setup was dicussed at length, unfortunately the photos are gone.
I control the pump with a remote, been fine for almost 2 years.
In my setup, which is a big deal is I relocated the battery to the truck bed. This gave me the ideal place for the pump.
In my humble opinion, this is best modification anyone can make to their truck, the peace of mind having that startup rattle gone is immeasurable. Please realize that rattle is what breaks the plastic on the cassettes, leading to engine destruction!!!!
 






I did a lot of research on different sandwich oil filter adapters. They are not all created equally. You want to make sure you are running the pump pressurized oil through the oil filter before it goes into the engine. I planned to install a manual oil pressure gauge in the output port on the adapter, but you could just plug it off. Depending on which oil filter your engine takes (metric or SAE) you would have to purchase the corresponding sandwich adapter. My truck uses the metric (Motorcraft FL820s) oil filter.

Below is a link to the metric sandwich adapter I planned to use. I believe David made his own using a 3D printer.
http://www.sriperformance.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

The pump David used (and that I was planning to use) was sold on Amazon and was made by Amarine. The price fluctuates, but was typically around $80.

I have links to various parts I planned to use and I can post them, but they've already been posted here multiple times.

You would need a switch to run the pump before starting your engine. I planned to use a momentary dash-mounted switch, but IIRC David used a hand-held remote to run the pump.

One of the biggest problems is that there's no room under the hood to mount the pump. David relocated his battery to the bed of his ST and mounted the pump where the battery used to live.

As David had done, I planned to replace my oil pan drain plug with a banjo bolt fitting. Then run a hose through a small in-line filter to the pump, then from the pump to the sandwich adapter. A check valve is also needed to prevent oil from being pushed back through the pump once the engine is started.

Here's a link for the Amarine pump, currently $66.99 U.S.
https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Edit: Apparently as I was typing this David was also responding, so please excuse the redundancies.
 






thank you very much guys! I actually took the time yesterday to read the old thread and it answers it all even without the pics. I will try to find the parts locally and get at it asap.

//Brg Per
 






Another thought, would it be reasonably to believe that the guides are at least not "dead" since the engine is really quiet after oil pressure is present? I did an oil change when I bought it 2 months ago and the old oil was black, as it usually should be when its used, but there where nothing in the tray that made me believe that anything should be wrong.

//Have a nice weekend
 












Hi Persalls, I'm sure it's a very similar pump. On Amazon there are 4 or 5 pumps all looking similar with big big price differences. I'm sure that pump will do the job, it also looks as if the housing on the front is steel. That would probably be stronger compared to the brass body on the one I have.
When putting the fittings on to pump be careful not to over tighten. Also if you have any problems with it you can complain locally!!!!
If once warmed up so long you have no timing chain noise between 2000 to 2500 rpm you can assume your cassettes are OK. To be more certain, drop the sump cover and look for bits of plastic. If none your fine.
 






Can someone design a timing circuit in stead of holding the peddle to the floor. Push a button then crank engine delaying the start for 5 second?
 






Can someone design a timing circuit in stead of holding the peddle to the floor. Push a button then crank engine delaying the start for 5 second?
Sure. You could easily add an 'ice cube' timer relay using the NC pins to negate the ignition for any adjustable amount of time.
 






Sure. You could easily add an 'ice cube' timer relay using the NC pins to negate the ignition for any adjustable amount of time.
could have been kinda cool to trigger a timer when you unlock the car that starts an electrical pump if the pressure is below a certain point and run for a preset time...
 






Sure. You could easily add an 'ice cube' timer relay using the NC pins to negate the ignition for any adjustable amount of time.
could have been kinda cool to trigger a timer when you unlock the car that starts an electrical pump if the pressure is below a certain point and run for a preset time...
 






Hi guys!

While trying to source the stuff needed I come across several sandwich adapters made just for sensors meaning smaller size connections. The one you linked to Koda is "full-size" like the ones ment to connect oil-coolers and stuff. Bigger connections usually means more flow but lower pressure given the same pump. Any thoughts on if it would be possible to use an adapter made for sensors only or does it need to be the bigger connector?

//Brg, Per
 






Hi guys!

While trying to source the stuff needed I come across several sandwich adapters made just for sensors meaning smaller size connections. The one you linked to Koda is "full-size" like the ones ment to connect oil-coolers and stuff. Bigger connections usually means more flow but lower pressure given the same pump. Any thoughts on if it would be possible to use an adapter made for sensors only or does it need to be the bigger connector?

//Brg, Per

For this application the larger fitting at the adapter would not mean the engine oil pressure would be less. The hose going in and out of the pump would need to be 3/8". You're interested in flow into the engine, not pressure. Less flow would mean less engine oil pressure. The pressure comes from the engine itself as the oil flows through it. For this a larger port in the adapter is better. If you want to install an oil pressure gauge on the unused port, yes you can use adapter(s) to reduce the size of the port to the size needed for the gauge sender. Otherwise just plug the unused port.

BTW, In order to have the oil coming from the pump filtered before it enters the engine, the IN port on the sandwich adapter must be the one that feeds the small holes around the perimeter of the filter and not the center hole of the filter.
 






Koda2000. Excuse me if I have this wrong. Does the adapter you mention above install between the block and the OEM oil filter adapter?

It appears to me that the currently installed OEM adapter and oil filter is right up next to the exhaust system (manifold) which would not allow the installation of any ADDITIONAL adapter. I have a slight oil leak between the OEM adapter and the block (stupid installation design) and have to remove the exhaust sytem in order to get the adapter removed so I can replace the old o-rings.

Thoughts?
 






Koda2000. Excuse me if I have this wrong. Does the adapter you mention above install between the block and the OEM oil filter adapter?

It appears to me that the currently installed OEM adapter and oil filter is right up next to the exhaust system (manifold) which would not allow the installation of any ADDITIONAL adapter. I have a slight oil leak between the OEM adapter and the block (stupid installation design) and have to remove the exhaust sytem in order to get the adapter removed so I can replace the old o-rings.

Thoughts?

The oil filter sandwich adapter installs between the oil filter and the existing oil filter mount. On my engine, there's ample space for the sandwich adapter as you're talking about a slight increase (the thickness of the sandwich adapter, 1" or so) in vertical length, not the horizontal.
 






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