What is that on fuel pump for 95 explorer

[Explorer_CH]

It is protected by a steel box welded on plate I removed to understand what it is
If I apply 12 V directly on pump it is working but not if I connect on orange wire, I think it is normal but I don't know how to test this box looking like a relay

 

[Wolfgang G.]

This block is part of the antitheft-system on european models

 

[J_C]

^ Interesting. Do you know if it can be rewired without it or if this will cause an error code?
However, if I had gone to the trouble to pull the tank and sending unit, I would go ahead and replace the sender assembly, including a new pump, while it was out.

 

[koda2000]

^ Interesting. Do you know if it can be rewired without it or if this will cause an error code?
However, if I had gone to the trouble to pull the tank and sending unit, I would go ahead and replace the sender assembly, including a new pump, while it was out.

Yeah, I agree, especially if it's somehow related to an anti-theft system. Maybe that's why you can't get your truck to start.

 

[J_C]

Is there a Ford part # on it? Can you non-destructively get the box open?

How did you apply 12V to the motor, was it on the red wire? When the pump is supposed to be running, does the vehicle put 12V on the connector contact corresponding to the orange wire? IF both of these things are true then you might try temporarily connecting the orange wire to the red, then temporarily connecting that to the vehicle to see if it energizes when the ignition key is turned, and then if that works without any error messages, then I would proceed to permanently wire the red to the orange.

If you can get it open and see a relay then you could look at where the relay coil pins are, and probe on the vehicle connector to see if it is sending an energize signal (voltage) on the corresponding vehicle connector pin, which would tell you that the vehicle is trying to make the relay close to power the pump but the relay itself has failed. If there is no relay coil voltage then it would seem the anti-theft circuit is faulty or something has caused it to not run the pump.

If the relay has failed and isn't a socketed type, there is a possibility to desolder, get the dimensions or part #, and order then solder in a new one. You could also call a european Ford repair shop and ask what that part is, the part # and price. There might be some in a junkyard.

 

[Explorer_CH]

Hi
Thanks for all information
Thé relay is sealed by resin so impossible to test directly and no part number on it
IT is quite impossible to find this part in Europe 22 years later
I Will reconnect to thé car and test like that to ear if pump is running or not
If not I Will try to jump by connecting Orange on Red wire
For that i Will put a small pipe between thé 2 gas connections of pump

 

[koda2000]

Is there a Ford part # on it? Can you non-destructively get the box open?

How did you apply 12V to the motor, was it on the red wire? When the pump is supposed to be running, does the vehicle put 12V on the connector contact corresponding to the orange wire? IF both of these things are true then you might try temporarily connecting the orange wire to the red, then temporarily connecting that to the vehicle to see if it energizes when the ignition key is turned, and then if that works without any error messages, then I would proceed to permanently wire the red to the orange.

If you can get it open and see a relay then you could look at where the relay coil pins are, and probe on the vehicle connector to see if it is sending an energize signal (voltage) on the corresponding vehicle connector pin, which would tell you that the vehicle is trying to make the relay close to power the pump but the relay itself has failed. If there is no relay coil voltage then it would seem the anti-theft circuit is faulty or something has caused it to not run the pump.

If the relay has failed and isn't a socketed type, there is a possibility to desolder, get the dimensions or part #, and order then solder in a new one. You could also call a european Ford repair shop and ask what that part is, the part # and price. There might be some in a junkyard.

IDK what's inside that black box, but from what I can see in the photo it looks like it may be solid state. Maybe there's a circuit board inside? I wouldn't mess with it. If you can bypass it great, otherwise I'd see if you can get a new fuel pump assembly on the European market. I'm thinking a salvage yard unit might work, but there probably isn't a glut of '95 Explorers to be found in your salvage yards.

 

[J_C]

I was wondering whether the security system is going to notice it missing. Could be solid state transistor switching or a relay, sealed in resin to protect it from moisture. If it is jumpered out of the circuit then I would use high quality heat shrink tubing with a glue lining to help seal the new solder connection(s) against moisture.

 

[Turdle]

Could it be an immobilzer installed by a finance company?

Breath Immobilizer for alcoholics?

 

[Wolfgang G.]

The european models1996/97 are equipped with an Immobiliser/antitheftsystem with FOB (one pushbutton) made by Bosch.
The black block is part of this system,it switches (controlled by the VIM) the +12V to the fuelpump.
Some users skipped this block and connected/soldered this +12V from the safetyswitch directly to the pump without problems.

 

[koda2000]

The european models1996/97 are equipped with an Immobiliser/antitheftsystem with FOB (one pushbutton) made by Bosch.
The black block is part of this system,it switches (controlled by the VIM) the +12V to the fuelpump.
Some users skipped this block and connected/soldered this +12V from the safetyswitch directly to the pump without problems.

Then that must be the issue as the pump runs when connected directly. Cut that sucker off and bypass it.

 

[Explorer_CH]

Exactly what I did and the struck restarded withou problem
There is just "check gauge" light on

 

[koda2000]

Exactly what I did and the struck restarded withou problem
There is just "check gauge" light on

Well, I'd get the CEL checked just to see what it's saying, but you know why it's on. Will this be a problem for emissions testing? A '95 is pre ODB II, right? Fords stupid EECC, or whatever they called it. Now that you know the black box/anti-theft thing was the issue, if you need to get the CEL to go off you'll need to replace the black box (or the entire fuel pump assembly).

 

[J_C]

What if it weren't cut off, left on yet also bypassed?

 

[Explorer_CH]

Well, I'd get the CEL checked just to see what it's saying, but you know why it's on. Will this be a problem for emissions testing? A '95 is pre ODB II, right? Fords stupid EECC, or whatever they called it. Now that you know the black box/anti-theft thing was the issue, if you need to get the CEL to go off you'll need to replace the black box (or the entire fuel pump assembly).

It is pre ODB II yes, I have an ODB scanner but no connexion.
I searched in Germany where there is a lot of Explorer, but impossible at now to find this box, and it has no connector and wiring is protected by a welded shield to prevent bypass. I had to drill weldings to acces to wires to weld together
I have not make a pic of that

 

[J_C]

^ I was talking about just stripping some insulation off the exposed wires to connect them, not getting inside the metal box.