Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread | Page 92 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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oh so you did retain them. My apologies. I thought you made it where the console had to come out to remove the arm rest
No, the armrest has to come out to remove the console, just like the original. The armrest puts downward pressure on the top of the console, keeping it in place.

This, is truly inspiring.
Thank you sir.

Everything is finally coming together. I got the latest version of the console finished. Behold....
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Also spent a bunch of time figuring out something I should have already known about relays. Thanks @Maniac. Also diagramed out all the wiring for the rest of the redo now that I am sure of the placement of all the stuff that needs wiring. I can run all the wiring off one harness with a plug that has 8 wires on one side and 12 on the other I salvaged off the old wiring harness. It will really make things easier when I start wiring. Should get started on that tomorrow.
 






Yesterday and today I worked on wiring, and more wiring, and wiring. Very tedious but I actually don't mind. It requires a lot of thought, and a lot of pencil erasers, to get it all right with the least amount of cutting into the factory wiring. So far, I have only cut into the factory wiring at the power seat wire, the dash illumination wire at the ash tray, the radio on in acc/run wire for a couple of relays, and the radio ground wire for the transmission gauges. I am not using the factory radio power wires for the radio, instead running separate wiring through the auxiliary fuse panel to the auxiliary battery. I like to run the radio/CB/ham without the need for the ignition key.

If anyone is interested, I will post up the wiring diagrams after I am finished. The only wiring I am not willing to post on this public forum is for the anti-theft devices.
 






And more wiring.....
I had planned on making the console removable without cutting any wires and got to a point where I realized I needed a few plugs to make that happen. Ordered them on-line and moved on to the engine compartment. Worked on cleaning up the wiring, added the transmission cooler fan to ground and to relay wiring, and cleaned up the main battery wiring by adding new terminals. Also fab'd a new mount for one of the two, 200 amp breakers for the auxiliary battery wiring. This one is for the main battery to the auxiliary battery solenoid and sits directly on top of the main battery box clamp. I forgot to take a picture before I took it all apart to work on......more wiring. I cut the wire for fuse #1 (interior lighting) so I could route a on/off switch, and run a wire up to the transmission temp gauge memory. Used the exact same wiring to run the switch salvaged from the old wiring harness.

It got dark so early today that I went inside and typed up all of my notes on the wiring so it was easier to reference. It looks a lot cleaner before its cut and pasted.

EXPLORER WIRING ROUTING BY COLOR AND LOCATION

CONSOLE HARNESS #1

WIRE COLOR

TAN/YELLOW LED BUMPER BAR, PARKING LIGHT FEED, AUX FUSE #1 TO SWITCH. **ADD SINGLE PINK/GREEN WIRE TO TRANS TEMP GAUGE ORANGE**.

PINK/GREEN LED BUMPER BAR, SWITCH TO RELAY #1.

BLUE/WHITE ROOF LIGHTS, HIGH BEAM FEED, FUSE #2 TO SWITCH.

ORANGE/GREEN FAN, SWITCH TO RELAY #3.

ORANGE/RED FAN, + IN ACCS/RUN, FUSE #7 TO SWITCH. **ADD AUX VOLT GAUGE RELAY POSITION 86 IN CONSOLE**.

BLACK/WHITE (2) ROCK LIGHTS, + CONSTANT, FUSE #12 TO SWITCH. **ADD ICX MODULE POWER IN CONSOLE**

WHITE/GREEN(2) FRONT DIFF LOCKER AND AIR COMPRESSOR, + IN ACCS/RUN, FUSE #6 TO SWITCHES.

GREEN/ORANGE BRAKE LIGHT RELAY, TRANS TORQUE CONVERTER LOCKOUT RELAY, BOTH IN CONSOLE. + IN ACCS/RUN. **ADD MAIN BATTERY VOLT GAUGE IN CONSOLE**

CONSOLE HARNESS #2

WIRE COLOR

GREEN/GREEN POWER PLUGS, + CONSTANT, FUSE #17 TO + TERMINAL ON PLUGS. **ADD AUX BATTERY VOLT GAUGE RELAY POSITION 30.**

BLACK GROUND TO LUGS ABOVE AUX FUSE PANEL AND FRONT OF SHIFTER.

BROWN ROOF LIGHTS, SWITCH TO ORANGE WIRE THROUGH FIREWALL AT AUX FUSE PANEL TO RELAY (B PILLAR).

YELLOW FRONT DIFF LOCKER, SWITCH TO RELAY #5.

ORANGE CB/RADIO, + CONSTANT, FUSE #15.

WHITE/PURPLE ROCK LIGHTS, SWITCH TO RELAY #2.

ORANGE/BLACK AIR COMPRESSOR, SWITCH TO YELLOW WIRE IN CONSOLE, IN LOOM WITH PSI GAUGE TUBING, TO RELAY (AT COMPRESSOR).

TRANSMISSION GAUGES

WIRE COLOR

PINK/GREEN PARKING LIGHT FEED, AUX FUSE #1 TO TEMP GAUGE ORANGE.

GREEN/ORANGE + IN ACCS/RUN FEED (OLD RADIO WIRE), TO TEMP GAUGE RED AND PSI GAUGE + SYMBOL.

LT GREEN/YELLOW + CONSTANT FEED, MAIN FUSE #1 TO TEMP GAUGE YELLOW.

BLACK/LT BLUE DASH LIGHTS TO PSI GAUGE LIGHT + SYMBOL.

BLACK GROUND TO BOTH GAUGES AND PSI GAUGE LIGHT.

BROWN SENSOR FEED – PSI GAUGE.

GREEN SENSOR FEED – TEMP GAUGE.

ACCESSORIES

WIRE COLOR

FAN YELLOW, FAN TO RELAY, _________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.

LED BUMPER BAR GREEN, LIGHTS TO RELAY, ________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.

ROOF LIGHTS BLUE, LIGHTS TO RELAY, BLUE, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.

ROCK LIGHTS ________, LIGHTS TO RELAY, ________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.

FRONT DIFF LOCK BLACK/RED, LOCKER TO RELAY, ________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.

AIR COMPRESSOR RED, COMPRESSOR TO RELAY, RED, BREAKER TO RELAY.

TRANS TQ LOCK RED, TRANS TO RELAY, GRAY, TRANS TO MANUAL LOCKOUT SWITCH, BLACK DUPLEX WIRE TO SWITCH IN SHIFTER HANDLE.

BRAKE RELAY ________, TO RELAY POSITION 86.

CB/RADIO ORANGE, FROM FUSE PANEL TO RADIO TO CB.

HAM RADIO RED, FROM AUX BATTERY LUG TO CONSOLE (2 IN-LINE FUSES +, 1 IN-LINE FUSE -).


Also redid the auxiliary fuse panel and relay diagram. I actually have three more empty fuse positions than before. It could change at anytime.

Auxiliary Fuse Panel Diagram.jpg
 












glad to see you saving car wish I had your expertise at wiring.
thanks roscoe
 






glad to see you saving car wish I had your expertise at wiring.
thanks roscoe

I appreciate that, but its mostly trial and error throughout the years of working on the same rig.

Spent a bunch of time getting nothing really accomplished today. The label maker I ordered last week showed up and ruined all my plans of getting a lot done today.
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This afternoon when I was really thinking about getting some work done, USPS showed up with my double mic holder and 8.8 skid / fill in the recess in the bottom plates made by Rock Ranger. The only holes I plan on putting in the dash are for the mic holder, and alarm LED.

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Got the auxiliary battery and air compressor wired in and installed. I was worried the compressor was fried because the it's old ground wire casing was melted in places, but it works. Forgot to take pictures of the auxiliary battery wiring, but its the same 2 gauge welding wire from the post in the engine compartment to the battery, but in between there is a 450 amp mega-fuse and on the battery side of that is a 200 amp manual reset breaker. I will hopefully remember and take a few pictures tomorrow.

A bunch of supplies arrived today so I can get to wiring the auxiliary fuse panel soon.
 






Fuse and breaker location for auxiliary battery. I can sit up in there behind the axle to get to them, and they are safely mounted out of harm's way.
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When the red heat shrink tubing I ordered arrives, I will have red ends on all the + side battery cables.

I also made a temporary hot knife out of a few nails and thin wire to cut the braided loom after fighting with the stuff for a month. It works great. I actually thought about going back and re-cutting all of the work I have done so far, but quickly forced that thought out of my head. This is taking long enough already.
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Edit: I just got finished with the majority of the wiring! It got dark on me so I couldn't clean it up and wrap everything, but its mostly finished.
 






I admire your patience. When I mapped out how to make my duel (front/rear) camera set up it sent my head spinning, so I can only imagine.
 






I admire your patience. When I mapped out how to make my duel (front/rear) camera set up it sent my head spinning, so I can only imagine.

I had to walk away or do something else several times while trying to figure out what goes where.
 






I finished up most of the wiring for the accessories today and it all works. I did a much cleaner job on it this time. Not quite finished with it. I need to drill a few holes in the inner fender to run ties to tighten it up, but I ran out of time for today. I am working at the Fallout Boy concert in a few hours. Here are a few pictures.

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I moved the main harness that goes from this inner fender, though a hole in the frame and down the inside of the frame to the rear of the Explorer. Holds the fuel pump wiring, among other things. I moved it over so it isn't exposed outside the frame in the fender well. It originally was covered by the plastic inner fender, which I don't have any more. The 2 gauge wire running to the auxiliary battery is in the same loom. I double sleeved the battery wire with expandable weave loom all the way to the back, then wrapped the entire wiring harness in more loom. The picture makes it look close to the exhaust, but its actually farther away then in the original position. The round hole in the frame is where the harness originally was routed. I should weld a plate over the hole, and the two mounting holes for the ABS speed sensor which is no longer needed.
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Spent a bunch of time getting nothing really accomplished today. The label maker I ordered last week showed up and ruined all my plans of getting a lot done today.

I bought a large print label maker awhile back. Great investment:chug:
 






Center console done! Well, almost. The switch pod is not very secure. I need to add some metal strips to both sides to make it fit snugly and not pop out of position.

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The gap above the radio was intentional. It will help dissipate the heat generated by the ham and CB.

I need to install the alarm and stereo, and the electrical will be finished, except for little details. I ordered different battery terminals because I purchased and installed some other terminals, but they don't have enough metal on them for my liking. After the alarm and stereo are installed, I can button up the dash and finally install Rock Ranger's double mic mount. I also might have to move the CB if it causes interference with the ham or vice-versa. They are next to each other in the console. I can move it under the dash if its a problem.

Should get started on the mechanical issues and interior next week:
Straighten and sleeve tie rod.
Replace motor mounts with Brian1's mounts.
Take front seats to get covered or reupholstered (getting console arm rest covered to match).
Reinstall interior.
Put all my crap back in its proper places.
Go for a long drive...

Then, I need to strip the rest of the parts I want off the donor and call Josh so he can take it away to its final resting place.

I have also been looking at my headliner. Its been slowly failing over the years, and the smoke and steam finished it off. The cloth is separating over the driver's area. Does anyone know if it needs to drop down to come out, or can it slide out the back hatch? I am thinking of attempting to remove it so I can recover it while I have all the interior panels removed, but my cage is in the way of it dropping down. I am hoping I can wiggle it out over the top of the cage. I am going to ask the upholstery person when I drop off the seats.
 






That really came out great.:chug:
 












I have removed/installed the headliners a few times. Doing them by myself, I had to get creative. Using a couple of twist lock type painting extension poles, with a section of thick cardboard. I pushed the liner up snug, and held it there with the poles, until I could get a few of the push clips in from front to back.

As long as you drop the rear of the head liner a few inches to clear the opening, you should be able to pull it out the back. It can bend ever so slightly from front to back, but not much, due to the dish like curves. Don't force it, or it will bend and crack.

The sides can snag as it slides, if too high. Having 3 people would be best. 2 on the sides to keep it in the clear, as 1 pulls in the back.
 









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I got the switch pod in much more securely. It was simple. I used a few pieces of that plastic door guard trim on the edges of the metal and it seems to be working.
 






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