Camshaft Position Sensor Question

[mf7365]

I've read the threads explaining the process of using the alignment tool but my question that I have not seen answered is do I need the alignment tool if I'm just replacing the plastic sensor cap and leaving the synchro intact? Or do you have to replace the synchro with the sensor?

 

[koda2000]

What problem are you trying yo fix?

 

[Dono]

What Koda said.
And, no you do not need the alignment tool if just the black sensor cap is being replaced.

 

[mf7365]

I have had the cam position sensor code for about a month. The check engine light will occasionally go out but its back on within a day. I'm in a 97 mountaineer V8 with 240,000mi. Its running fine, mpg is normal. I just replaced all the spark plug wires. I wanted to just try replacing the cap to start and if that doesnt work I'll just replace everything. But I wanted to make sure changing just the cap didn't require anything special.

 

[Dono]

Hows your charging system? Anytime I overload my charging system causing the voltage to drop I get that cam position sensor code. It's like the first warning of a charging system fault, lol.

 

[mf7365]

The alternator is working within the normal parameters. Everything about the electrical system is stock, so nothing is pulling any extra load on anything. Nothing has been showing any of the signs of a bad alternator or one going south and my battery is about 2 years old.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Ok, AC trickle from the alternator can cause the code even if the DC voltage from the alternator is within parameters. I am not saying that is your problem but just having correct DC voltage does not mean that the alternator is not causing the code. If the flag on the top of the synchronizer is okay and you replace the cap/sensor and still get the code, the alternator could be the source. I think they can check for AC trickle at some of the auto parts stores that do alternator tests. You can google and there may be a value above which can cause the code.

 

[koda2000]

My original thought was the alternator as well. As @Dono said, a bad alternator has been known to trigger a cam sensor ODB II code and even if the alternator is charging normally it might still be interfering with the cam sensor signal. You can try replacing the sensor/cap and examine its wiring, but if that doesn't fix your problem (and your cam synchronizer isn't chirping) replacing it wont help.

I have a 2000 5.0L with 240K who's cam synchronizer starting chirping 2-3 years ago. At that time I removed the sensor and put a couple of drops of ATF down around the synchroizer shaft and it's been quite ever since. It never set the CEL and there's nothing electronic in the synchronizer part.

FYI - If you ever do replace the cam synchronizer I highly recommend you spend the extra money and get a Motorcraft replacement, as the cheap aftermarket rebuilts tend to break.

Oh, and you don't need the tool to replace the sensor.

 

[imp]

Ok, AC trickle from the alternator can cause the code even if the DC voltage from the alternator is within parameters. I am not saying that is your problem but just having correct DC voltage does not mean that the alternator is not causing the code. If the flag on the top of the synchronizer is okay and you replace the cap/sensor and still get the code, the alternator could be the source. I think they can check for AC trickle at some of the auto parts stores that do alternator tests. You can google and there may be a value above which can cause the code.

What's happening if the alternator is causing the code is probably due to a partially-failed diode in it, allowing slight reverse current to flow, detected by PCM. They could have set it up to throw just about any code in the book, if they wanted to, but likely overlooked this situation.

In the old days, the still-charging alternator would just continue on until the diode shorted out completely and it was dead battery time. imp

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

.....
I have a 2000 5.0L with 240K who's cam synchronizer starting chirping 2-3 years ago. At that time I removed the sensor and put a couple of drops of ATF down around the synchroizer shaft and it's been quite ever since. It never set the CEL and there's nothing electronic in the synchronizer part.......
........

That's a good trick with the ATF. I use a 50/50 mix of oil and STP on the syncros just as a preventative measure. The bushings seem to get oil-starved for some reason. There's an oil hole about mid-way up the shaft that may get clogged up and cause the bushing to run dry...?

 

[Collin Whitfield]

I was getting the same code then I tried this and it least made the misaligned camshaft sensor code disappear.

2nd gen issues? Try this first!